Halair Column - my line array build (20 FR drivers) - Page 3 - diyAudio
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Old 24th March 2014, 01:38 PM   #21
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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You might want to check out these IRS2093 based amps - they have very low distortion. Their dual rail power supplies will set you back more than the amps but... 350 watts/ch for $40 for the amp proper, is not too shabby. Based on what I have read in class D forum, this type of class D amp is < 0.1% THD at full power. You will need something like a ~+/- 50 volt power supply to get the full 350 watts.

Mono-block:
Yuan Jing Audio - IRS2092 Class-D Mono Amplifier Board [350W+350W] - $40.80

Pair that with one of these toroidals:
http://www.yuan-jing.com/toroidal/600-va

Stereo:
http://www.yuan-jing.com/irs2092-cla...keyword=irs209

Last edited by xrk971; 24th March 2014 at 01:48 PM.
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Old 24th March 2014, 07:22 PM   #22
Halair is offline Halair  Norway
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Thanks for the links xrk, will keep them in mind
I should have enough power headroom, the room they will reside in is just over 20sq.m (210sq.ft-ish) so it is not that large room
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Old 25th March 2014, 08:53 AM   #23
Halair is offline Halair  Norway
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Need to get a router to do the grooving, using the circular saw is a chore for that job... Gone shopping
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Old 25th March 2014, 12:09 PM   #24
kuroguy is offline kuroguy  United States
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Nice. Any project where you GET to buy a new tool is a good project.
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Old 25th March 2014, 12:55 PM   #25
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A few minor points.

The distance between the column and the side wall *will* have an audible effect on the FR.

The gap on the bottom *will* have a measureable, and perhaps audible effect on the FR.

On the second thing, I'd opt to flip the column over, get the drivers to have minimum distance to the floor.

On the first, the gap to the wall will act the same way as will a combination of "baffle step" and "floor bounce". The solutions to this come to mind as:
- move the array flush with the wall
- create a smooth transition out from the wall over some length, to meet the edge of the column
- place absorptive material on the wall sufficient to adequately absorb and attenuate reflections at and above the frequency of interest.

No sense in putting in dips and peaks into an otherwise very smooth driver/speaker that can be avoided...

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Old 25th March 2014, 02:22 PM   #26
Halair is offline Halair  Norway
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuroguy View Post
Nice. Any project where you GET to buy a new tool is a good project.
Agreed, a router have been on my wish list for like forever... Now I just need to totally empty my workshop at home and set it all up so i dont have to spend too much time in the garage It is still kinda cold over here...

Quote:
Originally Posted by bear View Post
The gap on the bottom *will* have a measureable, and perhaps audible effect on the FR.
Hi Bear and thank you for weighing in

My home theater room have 6" high soffits housing downlights and ventilation, due to that the only way I could run my arrays all the way to the ceiling they need to be 1-1/2-2' out from the front wall. I intend to place them closer than that thus limited to ceiling-soffit height. Coincidently the gap distance on the floor-bottom of the array to the top-ceiling is similar. Ref image attachments.
My Columns were planned to take the area where the current DM604's reside although nothing is carved in stone yet - learning by doing and in that regard all the added info you guys provide are most helpful to me

Unfortunately my room/speaker placement isnt symetrical so FL will have its side wall about 6' further to the left, vs 1-2' for FR
Attached Images
File Type: jpg tegning 3.JPG (424.6 KB, 504 views)
File Type: jpg tegning1.JPG (397.3 KB, 477 views)
File Type: jpg tegning 2.JPG (393.5 KB, 466 views)

Last edited by Halair; 25th March 2014 at 02:29 PM.
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Old 26th March 2014, 07:51 AM   #27
Halair is offline Halair  Norway
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Regarding floor/ceiling coverage the current design = 79% coverage where top/bottom have similar "holes". I might have room in the one finished front baffle for two more drivers pushing coverage up to 87%... Need to measure when I get back home after work
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Old 26th March 2014, 10:04 AM   #28
Halair is offline Halair  Norway
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Since I can no longer edit my previous post here is a new one...
I think I am better off sticking with 20 per side so that the bottom/top cavity is similar in height vs almost 2" at bottom and 8" at the top?
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Old 26th March 2014, 10:51 AM   #29
wesayso is offline wesayso  Netherlands
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How are you going to hook up 22 or (2x)11 drivers to get a decent impedance?
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Old 26th March 2014, 11:42 AM   #30
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I think it was 20 drivers?

4-4-4-4-4 gives 6.4 Ohms.

4-3-3-3-3-4 gives 4.4 Ohms.

and so on... depending if he wants to keep the power distributed the same or varying between drivers.
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