Varnish is too heavy, it may add various grams to the MMS if the cone are big.
Stiff the cone are easy in the making process adding fibers as Kevlar etc, after this stage is need add something hard to succeed.
In my country there is this fixer spray used to conserve paper drawings and prevent humidity and mold:
Verniz Spray Fixador Acrilex - Fosco
It came in 2 flavors: mate and bright, I used bright.
Its not wet or a heavy liquid as paint, Its as a cloud when sprayed.
I unaware if it will stiffen the cone, but it very effective to prevent mould.
Stiff the cone are easy in the making process adding fibers as Kevlar etc, after this stage is need add something hard to succeed.
In my country there is this fixer spray used to conserve paper drawings and prevent humidity and mold:
Verniz Spray Fixador Acrilex - Fosco
It came in 2 flavors: mate and bright, I used bright.
Its not wet or a heavy liquid as paint, Its as a cloud when sprayed.
I unaware if it will stiffen the cone, but it very effective to prevent mould.
Thanks, thats good info and kind of what I'm after, altho I want to add a powder to the spray or liquid first.
maybe something like this http://www.eckersleys.com.au/site/a...Stage-3/MAT-Fabric-Fixative-250ml_0915100.jpg
maybe something like this http://www.eckersleys.com.au/site/a...Stage-3/MAT-Fabric-Fixative-250ml_0915100.jpg
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PVA thinned with water?
Also PVA layer with thin strips of lightweight aluminum foil bonded in radial spokes on the cone will add very little mass and provide quite a bit more stiffness. I have not tried this but it is what I would so based on mechanical design principals. Also thin strands of carbon fiber thread soaked in PVA and applied on cone radially will help even more than aluminum.
Also PVA layer with thin strips of lightweight aluminum foil bonded in radial spokes on the cone will add very little mass and provide quite a bit more stiffness. I have not tried this but it is what I would so based on mechanical design principals. Also thin strands of carbon fiber thread soaked in PVA and applied on cone radially will help even more than aluminum.
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I would stay away from stuff which was not designed to be used on the speaker membrane, or even not intended, succesfuly tried before. Otherwise you may ruin or alter the performance so much, that speakers end up unusable. I know what I am talking about, I killed some...
Here is some other suggestion:
wet look - Parts Express Ships Fast and Ships Free.
Here is some other suggestion:
wet look - Parts Express Ships Fast and Ships Free.
Looks like an arcrylic. Similar to the gloss coating used in EnABL.
On paper cones i use thinned modpodge/puzzlekoat. It is a PVA designed for coating puzzles and such. I have been using it for 35+ years. Old cones that come back my way do not have issues from the coating.
More here: Speaker Tweeks -- Puzzlecoat & Ductseal
The one issue i have seen is people thinning too much which can warp the cone.
On a full range you want to use as littleas you can.
dave
Part of how a well executed full range cone functions is controlled breakup / departure from rigid pistonic action. Careful treatment is one thing, but changing the mechanical characteristics of the cone's material too much, either in terms of mass, or overall rigidity, could risk seriously affecting its performance.
Hi,
I'd go to a model shop and use whatever doping it is they
use on model aircraft. You can be sure its pretty much
the most effective at stiffening for the added weight.
As to whether cone stiffening is a good idea or not I'd say
generally no for hifi, but yes for instrument speakers, if
you want brighter. Subwoofers it probably would work.
rgds, sreten.
I'd go to a model shop and use whatever doping it is they
use on model aircraft. You can be sure its pretty much
the most effective at stiffening for the added weight.
As to whether cone stiffening is a good idea or not I'd say
generally no for hifi, but yes for instrument speakers, if
you want brighter. Subwoofers it probably would work.
rgds, sreten.
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I wonder if a de-whizzered BG20 would benefit from having an inner diameter say 1.25"->1.5" treated with airplane dope - ? - be a gamble
this looks like enough to ruin many speakers
this looks like enough to ruin many speakers
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Another vote for (pure white) shellac. Buy ONLY from a reputable source such as an artists' colour man. He will tell you how to liquify it and the best mixtures for a hard drying coating. We used this on many Lowther cones and whizzers with excellent results. You should get a slight improvement in upper range, a faster less muddied mid and more slam in the bass.
Beware any form of cellulose mixture as the paper cone may just be plasticised in some form, and if so, you would risk serious damage.
Beware any form of cellulose mixture as the paper cone may just be plasticised in some form, and if so, you would risk serious damage.