Low Qts means weak bass only in open baffle / infinite baffle / sealed enclosures. You can increase the Q somewhat with a series resistor.
Not saying that you should, . just putting it out there.
I agree.
Low qts is great for detail and transients, assuming you can live with where the bass falls off.
And a resistor certainly can help add some bass (try a 3ohm).
I feel the neo magnet acts like alnico, sort of a built in shorting ring.
Is it worth it ?
I know I'd pay more for a copper cap on the pole piece or a shorting ring (even underhung) on any driver but a subwoofer.
But I wouldn't pay twice as much for a neo vs. a ferite.
Great bass from a 3" ?
lol, I have a bridge I'd like to sell you.
Norman
Low qts is great for detail and transients, assuming you can live with where the bass falls off.
And a resistor certainly can help add some bass (try a 3ohm).
I feel the neo magnet acts like alnico, sort of a built in shorting ring.
Is it worth it ?
I know I'd pay more for a copper cap on the pole piece or a shorting ring (even underhung) on any driver but a subwoofer.
But I wouldn't pay twice as much for a neo vs. a ferite.
Great bass from a 3" ?
lol, I have a bridge I'd like to sell you.
Norman
Ok, if going to the $3 driver, then I will work hard to get 25-driver towers a reality.
Need to get them spouse approved, as she already thinks I own much of the space in the house! Music, surfing, drumming,... all stuff that takes a lot of space! Of the three, she enjoys surfing too, so that one is easy. The other two take more work...
If I follow Overkill's designs and make a shallow enclosure (say 3.5" / 9cm deep) and hung it on the wall, I think it would have the best chance at reaching high approval rates.
That would mean that I do not listen to all design enclosure softwares are telling!
Been also considering a 16-driver tower, combined with a 10" base.
Need to get them spouse approved, as she already thinks I own much of the space in the house! Music, surfing, drumming,... all stuff that takes a lot of space! Of the three, she enjoys surfing too, so that one is easy. The other two take more work...
If I follow Overkill's designs and make a shallow enclosure (say 3.5" / 9cm deep) and hung it on the wall, I think it would have the best chance at reaching high approval rates.
That would mean that I do not listen to all design enclosure softwares are telling!
Been also considering a 16-driver tower, combined with a 10" base.
Attachments
Can you get any kind of spec for the cheaper driver? If the xmax is less, even having more of them could result in less output and/or LF making it more difficult to get the sub to match.
Despite the trend for narrow cabinets, wider, shallower cabinets can work well if you keep the same volume behind the driver. They work especially well up against a wall as Overkill says, at least in my experience.
Despite the trend for narrow cabinets, wider, shallower cabinets can work well if you keep the same volume behind the driver. They work especially well up against a wall as Overkill says, at least in my experience.
+1 on getting parameters for the $3 budget driver. I made my own TS parameter tester using built in function in REW software and a couple of 3.5mm stereo jack cables, a 100 ohm resistor and some alligator clips. Works very well and matches factory measurement of known woofers/drivers. Even at $3 that is $150 for 50 of them and the labor involved in putting them in a cabinet is not trivial. Having the parameters will allow you to size the cabinet properly and not frustrate you at the outcome by ensuring a successful predictable outcome. There are alignments that are more insensitive to driver Qts: sealed tapered TL like the Nautaloss, the Cornu, and OB. For a very small sealed cabinet the Qts can make a difference in ensuring enough cone movement control and allowing enough bass extension.
The home TS parameter measuring setup really is easy and I highly recommend all DIYers serious about building speakers to have one exactly for this reason.
The home TS parameter measuring setup really is easy and I highly recommend all DIYers serious about building speakers to have one exactly for this reason.
Zero specs available from the seller. Selling them as is.
I'll have to fire up REW to check that. I didn't know it was there.
On another angle, I just learned that VIFA drivers are made just up north from me. Tomorrow I will try to contact someone there and see if they would ship to me, or at least find a local distributor. If that could make the TC9 available to me, that'd be great!
I'll have to fire up REW to check that. I didn't know it was there.
On another angle, I just learned that VIFA drivers are made just up north from me. Tomorrow I will try to contact someone there and see if they would ship to me, or at least find a local distributor. If that could make the TC9 available to me, that'd be great!
Drive there and pick them up in person to save shipping if it is close. Ask for a quantity discount and buy them by the four dozen plus half a dozen more for 50 plus spares
The TC9FD is smoothest sounding driver in the 3 in class range (at any price), IMHO.
Re T/S measurements on REW, you will also need a digital ohm meter (probably have already, if not buy one for $5), an accurate gram scale (I have already but $10 from Amazon) to figure out how much mass to add to the cone (I use modeling clay shaped into a donut). You need a PC with USB ADC or soundcard with stereo mic or line-inputs to do the T/S measurements.
I'm trying to locate better drivers.
Found Wavecor. Just like Vifa, made in China now. They seem to have a product very similar to the TC9.
I guess they would probably do just as good job as the Vifa?
Here's the page:
FR084WA01_02
Found Wavecor. Just like Vifa, made in China now. They seem to have a product very similar to the TC9.
I guess they would probably do just as good job as the Vifa?
Here's the page:
FR084WA01_02
The polymer basket and bezel on the Wavecor looks similar to the Vifa. Probably made in same factory but to different specs and different materials. I agree with Wesayso - look at the variation in response at 10-12khz over different off axis angles. It can vary up to 35dB! That is huge and very noticeable. The TC9 has around a 12-15dB variation and no nasty breakup peaks. I have yet to see a smoother freq response and as good off axis response from another driver at any price. Whatever Peerless/Vifa did, they did it right and it is patented - called the Pentacut NRSC paper cone technology.
True, I saw that jagged line towards higher up, and outside of 15 degrees, it gets useless.
I didn't look at the graphs too much, I was too excited to have found something.
Anyway, got an answer from the local distributor. It is settled already as Wavecor is out of stock on the model and do not know when they will make them again.
That distributor doesn't handle Vifa anymore, so I am waiting for an answer from the Tymphany directly.
I didn't look at the graphs too much, I was too excited to have found something.
Anyway, got an answer from the local distributor. It is settled already as Wavecor is out of stock on the model and do not know when they will make them again.
That distributor doesn't handle Vifa anymore, so I am waiting for an answer from the Tymphany directly.
Playing with some design ideas.... really don't know what I am doing here besides trying to come up with designs that will look pleasing to the eyes (mostly my spouse's) and what I think would act well sonic wise.
This is a quick and dirty Sketchup model (I used to work with FormZ in the days,.. I liked it a lot... can't say the same thing about Sketchup...) that would be mounted on the wall, acting like an infinite baffle. Wondering if it is a viable option. And should I use drivers back mounted (like the Two Towers, providing a small "horn") or front mounted (like Overkill's BMR towers).
This is a quick and dirty Sketchup model (I used to work with FormZ in the days,.. I liked it a lot... can't say the same thing about Sketchup...) that would be mounted on the wall, acting like an infinite baffle. Wondering if it is a viable option. And should I use drivers back mounted (like the Two Towers, providing a small "horn") or front mounted (like Overkill's BMR towers).
Attachments
Vifa has given no answer for the last 5 days.
So I guess that one is out.
Local Fountek distributor as been in touch. So, I think I will give them a try.
They have the FE85 and FE87. The smoothest response seems to be the 85, but with a higher Fs than the 87. 1.5mm Xmax for both.
The one that may break the whole concept could be the little FR58EX. A little 2" that, according to reviews, is amazing. Also has a 3mm Xmax.
Which one to use....
FE85:
Products_Fountek Electronics Co.,Ltd
FE87
Products_Fountek Electronics Co.,Ltd
FR58EX
Products_Fountek Electronics Co.,Ltd
So I guess that one is out.
Local Fountek distributor as been in touch. So, I think I will give them a try.
They have the FE85 and FE87. The smoothest response seems to be the 85, but with a higher Fs than the 87. 1.5mm Xmax for both.
The one that may break the whole concept could be the little FR58EX. A little 2" that, according to reviews, is amazing. Also has a 3mm Xmax.
Which one to use....
FE85:
Products_Fountek Electronics Co.,Ltd
FE87
Products_Fountek Electronics Co.,Ltd
FR58EX
Products_Fountek Electronics Co.,Ltd
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