Please can you explain how you do it?
I have same speakers 12-250TC and i would like to know the way.
Is it a passive filter ?
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Here's a graph I made from the 15 inch Fane driver in a pipe horn I designed myself. Corner loaded, blue is 1 meter distance, green is from the listening position. Matched to treble, for comparison, unfortunately I don't remember which amount of smoothing was applied here.
It's not a hugely wild frequency response. It's actually interesting without any EQ (kind of built in loudness curve), but really opens up when the largest response anomalies are pulled flattish.
I imagine the 12 inch Fane would have the same potential. I hope you get a chance to listen to them in a different setup and situation. The listening experience for these huuge fullrangers is a lot like the smaller ones, but without the limits on SPL and extension. In terms of midrange and treble smoothness it's probably not your filterless cup of tea, I understand.
By the way, I have recently built the mass-loaded quarter wave horn designs for the Markaudio CHN50 for my home office. No EQ, absolutely perfect design IMHO. Does not need any EQ to sound good. Power handling and extension are more than adequate for a small room. I believe that's yours, Scott, so thanks.
It's not a hugely wild frequency response. It's actually interesting without any EQ (kind of built in loudness curve), but really opens up when the largest response anomalies are pulled flattish.
I imagine the 12 inch Fane would have the same potential. I hope you get a chance to listen to them in a different setup and situation. The listening experience for these huuge fullrangers is a lot like the smaller ones, but without the limits on SPL and extension. In terms of midrange and treble smoothness it's probably not your filterless cup of tea, I understand.
By the way, I have recently built the mass-loaded quarter wave horn designs for the Markaudio CHN50 for my home office. No EQ, absolutely perfect design IMHO. Does not need any EQ to sound good. Power handling and extension are more than adequate for a small room. I believe that's yours, Scott, so thanks.
Thanks for all your tips, guys! I looked at @Scottmoose 's plans, @GM 's input, studied them and played around a bit with it in WinISD.
Just 4 fun I tried out the "boom box alignment" for a start, but then fiddled around with it a bit.
Vb would be ~220L, inner measurements of the box would be: 45cm wide, 48cm deep, 105cm high. Volume would come out to 227L. The driver displaces about 4L, and I added some extra for braces.
How does this look like? WinISD says Vb=220L, tuning frequency is 45Hz. I'd add 2 horizontal vents (top and bottom) with the width of the speaker and 8cm high, WinISD says the resonance should be 600Hz?
What are your impressions? Abomination, Hillbilly-box that sounds too muffled, too boomy down low?
My train of thought was, since I like to listen to metal and classic music primarily anyhow (good oldschool Priest, Sabbath style and orchestral + organ music), why not push the bass with "hardware components", instead of treating the symptoms and do it afterwards with software?
Or should I emphasize a more balanced approach and then adjust it via software equalizer?
edit: the form didn't let me upload it directly, so here's the file:
https://www.file-upload.net/download-15220116/FaneboomboxersterTest.wpr.html
Just 4 fun I tried out the "boom box alignment" for a start, but then fiddled around with it a bit.
Vb would be ~220L, inner measurements of the box would be: 45cm wide, 48cm deep, 105cm high. Volume would come out to 227L. The driver displaces about 4L, and I added some extra for braces.
How does this look like? WinISD says Vb=220L, tuning frequency is 45Hz. I'd add 2 horizontal vents (top and bottom) with the width of the speaker and 8cm high, WinISD says the resonance should be 600Hz?
What are your impressions? Abomination, Hillbilly-box that sounds too muffled, too boomy down low?
My train of thought was, since I like to listen to metal and classic music primarily anyhow (good oldschool Priest, Sabbath style and orchestral + organ music), why not push the bass with "hardware components", instead of treating the symptoms and do it afterwards with software?
Or should I emphasize a more balanced approach and then adjust it via software equalizer?
edit: the form didn't let me upload it directly, so here's the file:
https://www.file-upload.net/download-15220116/FaneboomboxersterTest.wpr.html
I'd be thankful if you could. 
the model says +5db at 45Hz, which might be kinda cool.
the model says +5db at 45Hz, which might be kinda cool.May I ask what you mean with wide open? Wide open bassreflex-vents?
It's not calibrated, no. I have used a raspberry pi with a hifiberry miniamp as source, and it could play painfully loud with three watts per channel. These drivers are plenty efficient. 😁
I will have a look if I can find the drawing again.
This is all I have. The backstory is that I always wanted to make the Olson corner horn, which had a really good reputation and was designed for RCA 15" fullrange drivers. But I found the enclosure too complicated for my woodworking skills. I had been fully convinced by BIB loudspeakers, so had a look if I could adapt the Olson to a more simple single fold design. It has the same throat and mouth area, same length, I dropped the compression chamber/acoustic lowpass and switched expansion to parabolic in simulation. I think it turned out nicely.
From memory:
Throat 430 cm^2
Mouth 1754 cm^2
Length 240 cm
Stuffing in the point, up to the driver, don't remember how much, also damping on one of all opposing sides.
The mouth is basically the backside of the base. I made cutouts with the same total surface area around the rear bottom.
I suffer heavily from overthinking, so sometimes taking the framework of an admired design (or designer) helps me settle on a course of action and finally creativity happens.
From memory:
Throat 430 cm^2
Mouth 1754 cm^2
Length 240 cm
Stuffing in the point, up to the driver, don't remember how much, also damping on one of all opposing sides.
The mouth is basically the backside of the base. I made cutouts with the same total surface area around the rear bottom.
I suffer heavily from overthinking, so sometimes taking the framework of an admired design (or designer) helps me settle on a course of action and finally creativity happens.
OK, two passive correction filters. Grey line is response without filter, black line is with filter. Second filter gives more correction, so take a pick.
If you cant find 0,47mH and 0,82mH inductors, you can use 0,5mH and 0,8mH instead.
DC resistance of inductor is maximum value. Feel free to use better inductor with lower resistance.
1uF capacitor is for little sparkle above 10Khz.
Resistor is 10W, but feel free to use 20W.
Attachments
I don't think the website lets users download it easily, so I uploaded it again to wetransfer as I have had good experiences with them so far:
https://wetransfer.com/downloads/377224c43692be201356617c5844c9db20231110180212/95bda0a
7b2b32921adef560b1c83968a20231110180212/740421
I'd be more than happy if anyone more knowledgeable than me could just glance over the things I put together and tell me if it makes sense or if I'm going into the wrong direction completely
I couldn't have phrased it better myself! I find it hard to come up with something from the ground up, I always need some input to start a project off.
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Thanks! I tried the first one, but Google decided to check it for safety; got an OK, then Avast aborted it for some type of German phishing virus!
Regardless, apparently the only program I have to open it is notepad, so is just a column of data similar to HR's .txt file except with a whole lot of extra data I don't have time to try and decipher and in converting it to a .txt file, HR doesn't recognize it.
Anyway, inputted 220 L and the max flat's 8" dia (324.29 cm^2) vent for very low vent mach due to ~30 W peak power Xmax limit x 2.68"/6.8 cm long does indeed create a 'boombox', which combined with the room's acoustics, DSP can presumably make it perform well, though even at 100 W/2x Xmax, vent mach is still only ~18 m/s, nor does it sim any vent harmonics since the vent is so short, intrinsically well damped.
The pioneer's rule of 'no such thing as too much acoustic efficiency' has served me n' many others well over the decades, but it's based on the presumption of the tuning being at/below the recording's passband,i.e. primarily used as a TT rumble' filter, so in this respect it's truly a 'boombox' due to it high Fs/tuning, ergo only you can decide if it's OK or not.
Regardless, apparently the only program I have to open it is notepad, so is just a column of data similar to HR's .txt file except with a whole lot of extra data I don't have time to try and decipher and in converting it to a .txt file, HR doesn't recognize it.
Anyway, inputted 220 L and the max flat's 8" dia (324.29 cm^2) vent for very low vent mach due to ~30 W peak power Xmax limit x 2.68"/6.8 cm long does indeed create a 'boombox', which combined with the room's acoustics, DSP can presumably make it perform well, though even at 100 W/2x Xmax, vent mach is still only ~18 m/s, nor does it sim any vent harmonics since the vent is so short, intrinsically well damped.
The pioneer's rule of 'no such thing as too much acoustic efficiency' has served me n' many others well over the decades, but it's based on the presumption of the tuning being at/below the recording's passband,i.e. primarily used as a TT rumble' filter, so in this respect it's truly a 'boombox' due to it high Fs/tuning, ergo only you can decide if it's OK or not.
Thanks for taking the time and trying to get it to work @GM, much aprpeciated!
If the downloading doesn't work, I have one last try, the oldschool version:
Hurra, it seems to work!
As you can see, there's a +4.5db hump at 45Hz. In short, my thinking behind that was: My focus is not to get as low as possible, but to do 2 things at the same time: Minimize DSP/equalizer-usage, and lift the bottom end, too. So why not boost the bass regions with a "hardware"-based approach while I still can?
I got a few questions from your post, I hope you don't mind me asking
I quickly calculated it by hand, according to my plans I will have 2 rectangular vents with 8x42cm each. So 2x 336cm² => 672cm² (so about 104 square inches).
Vent-length should then be ~28,5cm, which is 60% of the internal depth.
So the finished speaker will have 2 slots like this (one at the bottom and one at the top)
2. Is there a big reason why people usually favor a very low F3 like ~30 but for that they sacrifice a "stronger" 50-100Hz range? Is it just personal preference or is there anything more important behind it? Because if there is, I will keep tinkering with it to get the hump more "to the left" or lower in the frequency range.
If the downloading doesn't work, I have one last try, the oldschool version:
Hurra, it seems to work!
As you can see, there's a +4.5db hump at 45Hz. In short, my thinking behind that was: My focus is not to get as low as possible, but to do 2 things at the same time: Minimize DSP/equalizer-usage, and lift the bottom end, too. So why not boost the bass regions with a "hardware"-based approach while I still can?
I got a few questions from your post, I hope you don't mind me asking
1. Why did you go for 8"? The drivers are 12", IIRC. Or was that just an approximation of the vent-surface?
I quickly calculated it by hand, according to my plans I will have 2 rectangular vents with 8x42cm each. So 2x 336cm² => 672cm² (so about 104 square inches).
Vent-length should then be ~28,5cm, which is 60% of the internal depth.
So the finished speaker will have 2 slots like this (one at the bottom and one at the top)
2. Is there a big reason why people usually favor a very low F3 like ~30 but for that they sacrifice a "stronger" 50-100Hz range? Is it just personal preference or is there anything more important behind it? Because if there is, I will keep tinkering with it to get the hump more "to the left" or lower in the frequency range.
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Here is my OB version of the Fane drivers usiing 3ft height by 16" width wood from home depot with couple of wings acting as support for the baffle. No set dimensions were prepared just went with the size of my room and wood panels were picked up not to block my projector. Initial impression paired with ACA amp is they are very very good and sound open and loud
