Hello again!
Changed the stuffing to be 60/60 point and front. I see what you meant by letting it tease apart, it still almost occupies the same / similar volume with 1/3rd the weight.
How important is it for the stuffing to be uniform? If I want to change the amount in the front chamber later on, does it have to be the completely uniform density and at the same location for both speakers? Within a certain chamber / section, does only the quantity matter or also the location within it?
I apologise if I'm asking "too simple" questions, and I really appreciate folks in this community sharing knowledge with beginners =)
Panda 🐼
There are some emails lurking on the frugal-horn site that i no longer check. Please use my planet10-hifi address please.
I sent Greg the plans just a bit ago
dave
If you mean the 45dg bevel to long edges of front baffle, that’s really just an aesthetic treatment that “we” applied to many of our enclosures, so as long as material thickness at those joints will allow, you can go as wide as you want with the chamfer. Some builders using solid wood for entire front, or perimeter edges have rounded them over, but I was generally too lazy to go that route for anything other than a bespoke build.
I now have the plans for the FHXL. I have some questions.
The front elevations seem at odds with the sections. By rights, the the sides, top and bottom front edges should be expressed on the drawing of the front with the baffle set into the enclosure and glued. But the lines of these edges are dotted rather than solid (which in my day meant they are "behind". Which is it?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but with the front baffle inset as shown, aren't these four joints -- joints that should be pretty strong -- relying on a shear strength of a bond between edges that may not be guaranteed to be perfectly cut and "square" to each other?
Myself, I'm a glue-and-screw-to-cleats guy. My preference would be to use cleats and screws to secure the "sub"-baffle and use a thick (10.5mm) veneer layer that would make the mounted speaker flush and facilitate a useful roundover that also covers the edges of the enclosure.
If I did mount the driver proud... to the outside of the 18mm baffle -- 10.5mm "out" from where it is shown -- is that going to compromise the alignment? The cleats? Would I have to make a correction for that displacement?
The front elevations seem at odds with the sections. By rights, the the sides, top and bottom front edges should be expressed on the drawing of the front with the baffle set into the enclosure and glued. But the lines of these edges are dotted rather than solid (which in my day meant they are "behind". Which is it?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but with the front baffle inset as shown, aren't these four joints -- joints that should be pretty strong -- relying on a shear strength of a bond between edges that may not be guaranteed to be perfectly cut and "square" to each other?
Myself, I'm a glue-and-screw-to-cleats guy. My preference would be to use cleats and screws to secure the "sub"-baffle and use a thick (10.5mm) veneer layer that would make the mounted speaker flush and facilitate a useful roundover that also covers the edges of the enclosure.
If I did mount the driver proud... to the outside of the 18mm baffle -- 10.5mm "out" from where it is shown -- is that going to compromise the alignment? The cleats? Would I have to make a correction for that displacement?
Either. We typically did a dado in the sides which the baffle set into. And if you are using solid for the front you want it to be full width.
dave