Excellent info, a wirthwhile experiment.
I would be very scared. By doing the adjustments to remove the angles will spread th edrivers significantly and decrease the frequency at which the 2nd one should be low-passed.
dave
I would defenetally propose myself for beta testing, I still have 4x m10.2 waiting for an enclosure...Welcome to the world of physics.Human hearing, due quite literally to the configuration of our head, with the ears on the sides, is inherently more sensitive to output lobing on the horizontal rather than the vertical axis. If you've still got them handy, here's an exercise. Put them side by side again, and turn your head 90 degrees (so your ears are vertical). It's not precise as other factors will kick in, but some of that blurring will go.
See my post above: one alternative is to separate them further (on the horizontal) & power the outer speakers independently, at a lower amplitude. Especially when combined with a high pass, that can clean things up somewhat, and in some (some) conditions provide a wider stereo effect. Of course, it depends on your ability to spread them laterally as well!
I can look at a custom box with twin units if you like. I've had a configuration in mind for a little while that might suit. Question: how tall an enclosure is your good lady willing to accept, especially if she is given the choice of finish?
As I say, I can look at a custom box with twin units if you like. I've had a configuration in mind for a little while that might suit. Question: how tall an enclosure is your good lady willing to accept, especially if she is given the choice of finish?
First, I’d like to say congratulations and thank you for the design of those speakers.
I don’t know if this has been already discussed but for space available in my apartment and personal taste reason, I d’like to know if it’s feasible to reverse the central panel so that we have the port at the front of the speakers? This should reduce a lot the footprint of the speakers.
Thanks
I don’t know if this has been already discussed but for space available in my apartment and personal taste reason, I d’like to know if it’s feasible to reverse the central panel so that we have the port at the front of the speakers? This should reduce a lot the footprint of the speakers.
Thanks
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Thank you for the repply.
No, not yet. Wanted to be sure before starting anything.
So may be the Pensil series will better fit my needs. Even the pensil 10.3 is still a fairly large box for me. May be I should decreases my project to the Pensil 7.3. Is there any big sound quality gap beetween those two cabinet ?
For aesthetic reason I wanted to have a tilted cabinet (3/5°), do you think it will significantly affect the sound quality if I implement such modification on the design ?
Pensil can be tilted back with few issues.
Smaller Pensil will not play as loud or go as low, but IMO, the 4” does better mid/top than the larger driver (by a very small amount).
A10.3/11ms/7.3 all fir preety small Mar-Kens.
A7.3 (or P7HD) can be fitted into microTower. 2 drivers/box helps with the levels, won’t go as low as a Pensil, but givn the tunign will provide more punch.
dave
Smaller Pensil will not play as loud or go as low, but IMO, the 4” does better mid/top than the larger driver (by a very small amount).
A10.3/11ms/7.3 all fir preety small Mar-Kens.
A7.3 (or P7HD) can be fitted into microTower. 2 drivers/box helps with the levels, won’t go as low as a Pensil, but givn the tunign will provide more punch.
dave
When I'm making the holes for the drivers, I know to bevel the backs so they can breathe. But what about the size of the hole. Do I want it just as big as I can get away with but keep some meat for the screws? Do I push the limit and skip the back bevel near the screws? Snug fit the driver to the hole? Does it matter at all?
Second question - from the drawings, it seems the center of the driver should be even with the upper edge of the internal baffle. Is that correct? So a bigger driver keeps the same center and crowds the top rather than keeping the edge a the driver a certain distance from the top, yes?
Thanks,
Mike
Second question - from the drawings, it seems the center of the driver should be even with the upper edge of the internal baffle. Is that correct? So a bigger driver keeps the same center and crowds the top rather than keeping the edge a the driver a certain distance from the top, yes?
Thanks,
Mike
Luthierguy,
The mechanical drawings of the MA Alpair 11MS (that's the driver you got?) indicate that the driver basket diameter is 144mm. So your cutout for the driver should be slightly larger than that, say maybe 2 mm larger in diameter vs basket size.
The driver center point from the top should be your point of reference. So yes, the out part of the bigger driver's frame will get a little bit closer to the top vs a smaller driver.
Oh, and it's always better to do a trial cut on a spare piece of material vs directly do it on the final cut pieces.
The mechanical drawings of the MA Alpair 11MS (that's the driver you got?) indicate that the driver basket diameter is 144mm. So your cutout for the driver should be slightly larger than that, say maybe 2 mm larger in diameter vs basket size.
The driver center point from the top should be your point of reference. So yes, the out part of the bigger driver's frame will get a little bit closer to the top vs a smaller driver.
Oh, and it's always better to do a trial cut on a spare piece of material vs directly do it on the final cut pieces.
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Hi, I still haven't got my FHXL enclosures even if my friend built it a month ago due to some issues he got.
I noticed right now that he did a 45° countersinking on the back of the front baffle, but he forgot to mill the space for the speaker on the front side of the front baffle. This way the Alpair 11MS will be on top of the baffle, and not into the baffle.
How will this affect the sound?
I noticed right now that he did a 45° countersinking on the back of the front baffle, but he forgot to mill the space for the speaker on the front side of the front baffle. This way the Alpair 11MS will be on top of the baffle, and not into the baffle.
How will this affect the sound?
Well, the boxes are put together. The drivers are in. The last side and top are clamped on and the seams are taped. It was interesting sounding. I both felt like my ears needed to be popped and I needed Pseudofed and everything was a little muddy, but I also was understanding every word of every song. I left them at work to run over night. We'll see how they're doing in the morning. Now to figure out what to use for lining. I've got some scraps of that P.E. peel and stick foam, but not enough.