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The same is true for Cocobolo. The oils in the dust irritate EVERYTHING - your eyes, your skin, and your lungs. Must be something in common for the exotic hardwoods and the climate where they grow.
wcwc: before you go moving everything around (this is a royal pain - we just rearranged our living room and had to purchase/run new cables), give the horns a try and see what you think. These speakers are the ultimate in customizability. Use/adjust/skip the notch filter to tune the treble to your liking. Move them toward/away from the wall to fine tune the bass. What more could you ask for?
The same hardwood used for the body of Trey Gunn's custom Warr guitars; they hate using it too due to the amount of fine dust.
Eric,
My current speakers sit on a fireplace mantle which is 12" high and 12" deep. That won't work well with the FH-XL. I also have the couch in the middle of the space about 6 to 7 ft from the speakers. So putting the FH-XLs in front of the mantle won't work well. I have considered the other walls, but they are also compromised regarding placement. The FH-XLs will be part of a 5.2 surround system.
My current speakers sit on a fireplace mantle which is 12" high and 12" deep. That won't work well with the FH-XL. I also have the couch in the middle of the space about 6 to 7 ft from the speakers. So putting the FH-XLs in front of the mantle won't work well. I have considered the other walls, but they are also compromised regarding placement. The FH-XLs will be part of a 5.2 surround system.
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Oh - this is interesting and disappointing to learn all at the same time... Does the same happen without sun exposure as part of the ageing process? It seems that sunlight gets everywhere over time...
After hearing Scott Dunn’s (SCD) FHXL at this last diyFEST my physiotherapistn got Bernie to build him a set in solid mahogany.
dave
Always good to see a unit done in solid wood, and beautiful work by Bernie!
Ive only used paduak in minimal amounts, as a accent wood on kitchen boards and such. Seems the more direct exposure they get to sunlight makeas it happen. I have a 10 year old board that gets tucked in a dark place it doesnt seem to be affected. But we had one. In curly maple and paduak that stayed on the kitchen table, it faded alot.
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Eric not sure if you are refering to the cabinet scraper with handles or the simple card scraper.
The lader is all i ever use, the angle at which you hold it depends on how much you turn the burr if you change the angle as you push you will find the sweat spot to turn shavings not dust.
Some woods do to figure and reversing grain are unplainable and a card scraper is the ansewer
The lader is all i ever use, the angle at which you hold it depends on how much you turn the burr if you change the angle as you push you will find the sweat spot to turn shavings not dust.
Some woods do to figure and reversing grain are unplainable and a card scraper is the ansewer
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It's a card scraper. I also picked up a burnisher to put an edge on the card. I can clearly feel a sharp lip on the card, but never got more than a pile of dust from using it. So, I figured I was either not using it properly, or I didn't have a sufficient edge on it. I was playing around with a scrap of Walnut, so maybe it works better on a softer wood?
A few things may need to be done basicly start from the beginning the burr does not need to be turned to far. There are a few ways to prep the edge befor turning. I even purchesed a nice kit years ago from my fav little toy store. Including jig to hold a file at 90deg plus a jig with a internal hardened bar at 3.t.7 degree etc.
I now mostly us a water stone edge and small block of wood to flatten polish and square the edge.
Turning requires few strokes with the burmisher to tu=n a burr. A few passes and try it dont be concerned with the outer portions just the center 70% or so As i said before. Bend it in the middle with your thumbs and change the angle on the stroke to find the sweet spot. Shouldent take more than 4_7 strokes of firm pressure.
I dont normally angle the burmisher much a couple degree there about, i put a check mark with a marker on the turned face for quick orientation.Nornally i clamp the scraper in wood jaw vice and pull the burmisher towords the handle down the length.
I think the difference between a cabinet maker and furniture maker stems back to learning and being comfortable with sharpening tools. Regardless what some might say, quietly making shavings with a few tunes on the box is much more enjoyable and satisfying then filling a room with noise and dust.
Paul
I now mostly us a water stone edge and small block of wood to flatten polish and square the edge.
Turning requires few strokes with the burmisher to tu=n a burr. A few passes and try it dont be concerned with the outer portions just the center 70% or so As i said before. Bend it in the middle with your thumbs and change the angle on the stroke to find the sweet spot. Shouldent take more than 4_7 strokes of firm pressure.
I dont normally angle the burmisher much a couple degree there about, i put a check mark with a marker on the turned face for quick orientation.Nornally i clamp the scraper in wood jaw vice and pull the burmisher towords the handle down the length.
I think the difference between a cabinet maker and furniture maker stems back to learning and being comfortable with sharpening tools. Regardless what some might say, quietly making shavings with a few tunes on the box is much more enjoyable and satisfying then filling a room with noise and dust.
Paul
So far the only drivers I've heard in the XLs are the two models of A10.3 which both drop into the same cut-out, and the FF165WK. I personally prefer either of the Alpairs in this enclosure.
Absent any measurements, I'm not entirely convinced that the little vestigial side cheeks on the few we've built for the FH3 deliver any sonic improvement, and while there's nothing drawn yet I think for a replaceable baffle for the XL, it wouldn't take much. The only question is whether you'd want it to be flush with the rest of the front panel - which would take a bit more detailing to provide acoustic seal - or simply plant on proud, and seal with foam weatherstrip tape.
Absent any measurements, I'm not entirely convinced that the little vestigial side cheeks on the few we've built for the FH3 deliver any sonic improvement, and while there's nothing drawn yet I think for a replaceable baffle for the XL, it wouldn't take much. The only question is whether you'd want it to be flush with the rest of the front panel - which would take a bit more detailing to provide acoustic seal - or simply plant on proud, and seal with foam weatherstrip tape.
ok . I have my 10p's on top of the baffle rather than recessed in , can be disputed I'm sure . just like a meaty baffle, lol. one more question ,and its been asked a million times, you say the efficiency is the spl of the driver , and some people declare a 3db increase with the cabinet. Only in certain cabinet designs or ??????????
Thank you Dave. Glad to see you back on ,and hope your recovery is coming along. I tell guys to keep this XL thread going , because I believe the XL's are one finest speakers I've heard. Recently I went to an audio store for the first time in 15 years, and was very disappointed. I came to the conclusion that the worst of the FR systems are so much better than any systems with complicated crossovers, within financial reasoning (feastrex AER drivers). These 63 year old ears even can hear that. Thanks so much for bringing the FH systems to life along with Scottmouse , Chris and whoever else was involved!!!!!!!