Hi everyone!
I'm about to start building a small bluetooth speaker for use in my kitchen. I'm using a Dayton Audio RS100 full range speaker, and I'm gonna try to camouflage it by using a wooden lantern as enclosure:
I will attach the driver from the inside making the hole in the front where the sound comes out. However, the diameter of the hole is 55mm (cant be made bigger), whereas the diameter of the driver cone is 77mm. So to make it work, I need to make a wooden ring to use between the driver and the "baffle", making a small chamber in front of the driver and free air. I've tried to illustrate in a sketch:
I assume this will affect the driver and the sound somehow, but in what way? Any ideas? 🙂
I'm about to start building a small bluetooth speaker for use in my kitchen. I'm using a Dayton Audio RS100 full range speaker, and I'm gonna try to camouflage it by using a wooden lantern as enclosure:
I will attach the driver from the inside making the hole in the front where the sound comes out. However, the diameter of the hole is 55mm (cant be made bigger), whereas the diameter of the driver cone is 77mm. So to make it work, I need to make a wooden ring to use between the driver and the "baffle", making a small chamber in front of the driver and free air. I've tried to illustrate in a sketch:
I assume this will affect the driver and the sound somehow, but in what way? Any ideas? 🙂
Yep! especially for a fullrange...often the external suspension, the roll surround is itself an obstacle that makes some 'fuzzy'. It's the 2-3 mm in the pronounced roll - it doesn't happen with the inverted surround- that produces inference-interference-diffraction at the border ( with similar lenght to the wavelenghts involved...so above 3-4 kHz😕 ).
General practice would tell to put the speakers 'flat' on the baffle.
General practice would tell to put the speakers 'flat' on the baffle.
I am building a Bluetooth enabled speaker now using the BT-1 from Parts Express and there seems to be a problem with a ground loop based whine associated with BT signal when both the amp and BT are powered from common supply (12 v and 5v regulator step down from 12v). When powered by separate power supplies it sounds great but unusable when shared power supply. It is a tough problem to fix and not to be underestimated. I am thinking the only way is to get an isolated DC to DC converter. That will add $14 to the project. Not sure how cheap BT speakers sold do not have this issue.
Ok, thanks guys. I was hoping that it wouldn't affect the sound more than I could live with, but it looks like I'll be looking for a different way to mount the driver. 😛
Good to know, I was hoping to power both amp board and BT module (Apt x Bluetooth 4 0 Audio Receiver Board Wireless Music Stereo for iPhone PC | eBay) from the same 12V supply.. I'll give it a shot as soon as the BT module arrives and share my findings. 🙂
Good to know, I was hoping to power both amp board and BT module (Apt x Bluetooth 4 0 Audio Receiver Board Wireless Music Stereo for iPhone PC | eBay) from the same 12V supply.. I'll give it a shot as soon as the BT module arrives and share my findings. 🙂
I've just had a chance to test the bt module and amp, and I've had no issues when using a shared power supply.. The amp is this one:
2 x 8Watt Class D Audio Amplifier Board TPA3110 2W Stereo Power Mini Amp | eBay
Maybe this BT receiver fixes the problem you described?
Bluetooth Audio Receiver Board v2.1+EDR 12 VDC | 320-351
It runs on 12VDC instead of requiring 5VDC of the BT-1
Bluetooth Audio Receiver Board v2.1+EDR 12 VDC | 320-351
It runs on 12VDC instead of requiring 5VDC of the BT-1
Yeah, that's basically the same one I'm using (Sure), except without apt-x. Only a few more $ to get apt-x, I reckon is worth it.. As long as you have a source that supports it, I only realized later that my iPhone doesn't... 😱
Bass port question
So I've got everything up and running now, just need to put together the box. I've had to put the bass port exit underneath (see attached sketch), and I'm looking to add some feet of some sort to allow enough airflow from underneath the enclosure. But how big a gap do I need between the enclosure and what it sits on? The bass port is 40mm diameter.
So I've got everything up and running now, just need to put together the box. I've had to put the bass port exit underneath (see attached sketch), and I'm looking to add some feet of some sort to allow enough airflow from underneath the enclosure. But how big a gap do I need between the enclosure and what it sits on? The bass port is 40mm diameter.
I've seen bluetooth receivers that supported "aptx". What is aptX?
Been thinking of making a sound system from some old 5x7 or maybe even a 6x9 car speaker with an amp for a shop system. Wanted bluetooth, so the guys who want to stream music to the player from their phones could. Does aptx work from bluetooth enabled android phones. Is that a hardware or software function of bluetooth. If it is just software, than the people who wanted to stream could just download an aptx app. (looking right now for one)
Been thinking of making a sound system from some old 5x7 or maybe even a 6x9 car speaker with an amp for a shop system. Wanted bluetooth, so the guys who want to stream music to the player from their phones could. Does aptx work from bluetooth enabled android phones. Is that a hardware or software function of bluetooth. If it is just software, than the people who wanted to stream could just download an aptx app. (looking right now for one)
Per the wiki, AptX is supported by, these android phones:
Galaxy 5 and Note
HTC one series,
Motorola Razor,
Blackberry 10
Galaxy 5 and Note
HTC one series,
Motorola Razor,
Blackberry 10
Stereo to two summed mono?
I want to have a line output on this little speaker to use with a powered sub. But I'm not sure how its best to do it. I've got a stereo signal that I want to sum to two mono signals, one for the built in amp, and one going to an RCA socket for sub output. Any suggestions how to do this?
I want to have a line output on this little speaker to use with a powered sub. But I'm not sure how its best to do it. I've got a stereo signal that I want to sum to two mono signals, one for the built in amp, and one going to an RCA socket for sub output. Any suggestions how to do this?
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