My favorite Alpair's

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I don't know! Pretty much what I have running at the moment.

I've been running A10P's in the 2-channel lately. Wonderful smooth sound. I have a pair of A10M.3's. They seem a bit bright to me, but they really don't have enough time on the them to make a judgment.

I've been using A7.3's over a Peerless 850146 sub in the HT. For no reason, I swapped them out for A12(P)'s. Turned the sub off. What a lovely sound! Not deep enough for action movies, but for normal TV and music, I don't miss the sub.

While I was building, swapping and generally messing around, I had Fostex FF165WK's in the 2-channel over Goldwood GW1858 H-Frames. No comparison to the A12P's, but they had a sound I was drawn to.

OK. I'm convinced. I like the sound of paper. I can see A10P's in the HT and in the 2-channel. (The A12P MLTL's don't pass WAF :(). I am working on -- really this time -- a FAST rig for the 2-channel. A10P's in BR's over Dayton RS315HF-4's. I do like my 32' organ stops. Drivers on hand and panels cut!

Bob
 
I recommend the W8-1772's and the A12P's for different audiences. The TB is more robust and in-your-face. I recommend it for those you have to have SPL, and are inclined to a mix of heavy rock and 21'st century compressed-to-white-noise pop music. It still has the single-driver mids, but is coarser than than A12P. Where purity of the solo line and intricacies of the inner parts are important, the A12P stands head and shoulders above the W8-1772.

Bob
 
Bob, what enclosure have you been running the 10p's in for 2-channel service? Sans-sub, how is it working out?

The A10P's are in my M10-A10 MLTL's. On the left is the M12-A12 (A12P's) and the right the M10-A10 in naked Russian birch. It has since acquired a walnut finish like it's big brother.

They work fine without a sub. Into the high 30's with room lift. I do apply just a tough of bass boost. I like a warm bottom end.

Bob
 

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I recommend the W8-1772's and the A12P's for different audiences. The TB is more robust and in-your-face. I recommend it for those you have to have SPL, and are inclined to a mix of heavy rock and 21'st century compressed-to-white-noise pop music. It still has the single-driver mids, but is coarser than than A12P. Where purity of the solo line and intricacies of the inner parts are important, the A12P stands head and shoulders above the W8-1772.

Bob


That's about the best description of the sound that I heard in a pair of these recently - someone else's system - a prototype passive 3 with Mundorf AMT and JBL 12" pro woofer in folded & lightly damped TL. Certainly very dramatic and big / forward , but for my taste lacking the subtlety and refinement in the mid band area of the 12P or 10P.

and who doesn't like a warm bottom, or at least fondly cherish the memories thereof? :cheeky:
 
Looks great. I've been wondering whether the 10p's would drop into that enclosure.

I've been researching high-efficiency speakers because I'm currently building a SET. The 10p/12p has been high up on the list so I've drooled over your enclosures (and the Pensils) a couple of times now. Thanks for sharing.
 
Looks great. I've been wondering whether the 10p's would drop into that enclosure.

Not into the "old" 10.2 enclosure, if that's what you mean. There are unique boxes now for the 10.3 and 10p

I believe that he meant my M10-A10 cabinet. The answer is yes, all three, A10.2, A10(M).3 and A10P(.1) will work in that cabinet. Each requires a different port length, a perhaps a bit of fiddling with damping. Turns out that the A10P is happiest in that cabinet. It is a bit too small for the A10.2, but for the A10P, it is just right.

Bob
 
So Bob how are those 10p + Dayton's coming along? Inquiring minds want to know. After all you're not the only one who enjoys those 32' Organ stops.

The Dayton's are sitting in a corner and the 24mm panels next to them. Life and a couple of commissions halted the project. I'll be on vacation for two weeks and then I can get back to the project, if I don't get more commissions.

For your enjoyment, the mahogany speakers are M10-A10's loaded with A10P's. The customer demanded the drivers be at 36", so the bottom 4" of the cabinets are filled with styrofoam blocks.

Apologies Bob, but the other driver you illustrated is a FR competitor. Members who wish to see all Bob's excellent work:

http://brinesacoustics.com

Bob
 

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Gorgeous finish. I don't know if the supra baffles make any difference in the sound but they certainly look great.


yeah, let's start a new conversation on that - the plywood/MDF , bracing techniques / grilles or not debates are getting a bit tiresome - and this is coming from a guy who loves to beat a dead horse as much as anybody ;)


if nothing else the elliptical SBs do add a nice aesthetic touch - nice work Bob
 
Gorgeous finish. I don't know if the supra baffles make any difference in the sound but they certainly look great.

I don't know the answer either. My logic says that the two 3/4" roundovers equate to a 1 1/2" roundover, which is close to the magic number of 2", which is generally accepted as being effective.

On my to-do list is build a box with the 1/4" raised edges and grill, rout the edges square, and finally rout a 3/4" roundover. Take measurements. Might actually show something.

Bob
 
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