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Old 11th September 2013, 03:54 PM   #1
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Default Open Baffle- help with design and driver picks

Hello, I am looking for help in regards to an open baffle design. I am trying to find a good coaxial candidate but am having no luck. Full range seems to be the only option besides a two or three way. I am planning on using these- AE Speakers Online Store - For bass. They are specifically designed for open baffle use.
If you have any suggestions for the best drivers and or combinations I would be grateful.
I am open to designs with planar transducers, full range drivers, and really anything else.
Thank you.
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Old 13th September 2013, 02:02 PM   #2
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Tried and true design, many have been built! http://www.quarter-wave.com/OBs/OB_Design.pdf

Larry
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Old 13th September 2013, 02:07 PM   #3
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I think you could substitute the fe103 with an Alpair 10.3 using the same crossover parts for a more ROBUST speaker, this would raise the cost though.

Larry
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Old 13th September 2013, 03:13 PM   #4
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Thanks, I'll read it.
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Old 13th September 2013, 03:30 PM   #5
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Have you seen this thread ?

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...-new-post.html
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Old 13th September 2013, 03:50 PM   #6
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I have not read that before, thanks. I was wondering about coaxials but usually I can't find one with high enough qts to be used in an open baffle(though since I am using bass drivers is the necessary now?)
I was looking at a 15 inch paudio driver and some say it is shouty. It all depends on the crossover they say.
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Old 13th September 2013, 04:44 PM   #7
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What type of wood do you think would be best? Birch plywood, bamboo plywood?
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Old 13th September 2013, 06:15 PM   #8
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A shouty driver is because of cone breakup and if you cross over well before that you might be able to avoid a problem. However I always feel that if a driver sounds terrible without any crossover then you shouldn't be using it ! Very peaky break up is hard to handle and could still colour the sound even with a crossover.
As far as tweeters are concerned you should listen to them with the appropriate crossover and see how they sound. They will be tinny of course but if they tend to spit or sound unpleasant in any way it could be because of the cross over frequency and the rate of roll off of the crossover. Use what others have tried and recommend.

We don't have a very wide choice of plywood here but MDF is freely available. While testing I would use 3/4 inch MDF for the baffle with stiffening supports and later when I finalize it I'll probably try a sandwich baffle with sand filling in between. Like what G.A.Briggs and others did a long time ago.
Note that MDF seems better damped than ply. Just tap it and see. But ply could be stiffer than MDF. Maybe a sandwich of ply/sand/MDF ?
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Last edited by ashok; 13th September 2013 at 06:17 PM.
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Old 13th September 2013, 06:24 PM   #9
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Note that Fs falls and Qts rises when a bass driver is installed on a baffle. You might also find some people reporting that they got better sound with Qts that isn't too high like 0.8 to 1.0 etc. So something between 0.5 and 0.7 might be better I guess.
One 18 inch driver on a baffle had it's Qts go up from about 0.6 in open air to about 0.8 . So you need to measure TS parameters on a baffle that you want to use.
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Old 13th September 2013, 06:42 PM   #10
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I heard that using mdf stand alone muffles the sound or something. Maybe using a combination would be good too. Mdf sure is alot more affordable than Baltic birch plywood!
Using a sand sandwich sounds interesting. I'll have to consider it, thank you. Of course i'll have to paint it some flat color as veneer is about as expensive as the wood itself.
Maybe I can do a piano black paint job! Another challenge.

Any coaxials or fullranges you have had success with?

Does lowes have good plywood suitable for this? They can deliver to my house it looks like. 3/4x48x96 for $32.97 plus shipping. Of course if we were sandwiching them and sand inbetween they wouldnt need to be so thick? Maybe 1/2" or would we still just use a 3/4" sand and another 3/4" piece?
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