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Old 23rd July 2013, 05:25 PM   #1
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Default Subwoofer for Fostex Fe103

Hi,

please can you address me to a project of a subwoofer with plate amp for my PC system to help under the desk two monitors with Fostex FE103 drivers in the Fostex standard BR enclosure?

Thank you

Northernsky
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Old 24th July 2013, 12:33 PM   #2
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My system is similar (FE103E in BR tuned to ~80Hz). My only recommendation is to make sure that the plate amp has an adjustable low-pass filter, so you can blend the sub in (by adjusting its uppermost frequency).

For example, in my case, I have a floor-to-ceiling resonance (room mode) at about 70Hz. So the FE103's play down to 80Hz, then the sub is limited at ~60Hz, to avoid aggravating the 70Hz "boom".
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Old 24th July 2013, 01:45 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjbond3rd View Post
My system is similar (FE103E in BR tuned to ~80Hz). My only recommendation is to make sure that the plate amp has an adjustable low-pass filter, so you can blend the sub in (by adjusting its uppermost frequency).
Thank you Rybond3rd,

What sub do you use?


northernsky
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Old 24th July 2013, 01:59 PM   #4
xrk971 is online now xrk971  United States
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You might want to check out what James Shearer did for a sub for use with his Met's. It is the "Triska" design. Another Triska Sub
Parts Express DIY Project
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 24th July 2013, 02:25 PM   #5
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Uh! I did something like the Triska sub, having two Peerless woofers (subs )
one of them had the voice coil former detached from the cone ( abuse !)
so I detached also the magnet and transformed it into a passive.
I added some weight too.
The wood, i got it from a couch on the street.
The two radiators are placed on the near walls of the box, but the passive ( or the active ) might be placed on the opposite face.
I don't understand why the electonics have to fit inside the box !?!
Mine is powered by a BTL 2 W amplifier so...4 W or something. The electronic filter ( based on a TL 074 ) as the amplifier belongs from a Philips 2.1 system.
It now plays ( I didn't tell them the trick ! ) with a pair of Whaferdale Diamond 9.1 powered by 20 + 20 W .
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Old 24th July 2013, 02:54 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by northernsky View Post
What sub do you use?
I use a very cheap Hsu 10" sub. It has the low-pass -- I had intended to get the model which -also- has a high-pass. But I guess I didn't read the fine print.

So now, I go direct to a Bottlehead amp (no high pass), and then I use the low-pass to blend in the sub. But it's convenient if you get a plate amp which -also- has the high pass (as an option, at least for experimenting).
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Old 25th July 2013, 12:00 AM   #7
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If you do the Triska sub project, I would strongly recommend a better plate amp; the little plate amp that is in the BOM for the Triska didn't work very well for me.

Cheers, Jim
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Old 25th July 2013, 07:25 AM   #8
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My system is running a Dayton 12" ($120) from Parts express. Not sure if it can hook to a computer or not though...never tried. It's a great sub if you want to bring the ceiling down. It's paired with a set of Homebrew OB's with Fostex 103En's a pair of full range 5"ers I got out of my old Magnavox 50" bigscreen and a pair of Eminence Alpha 15's for the thump. Just got the crossover figured out today.

Last edited by cradeldorf; 25th July 2013 at 07:28 AM.
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Old 25th July 2013, 02:17 PM   #9
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Thank you for all the suggestions. The Triska sub is the kind of project I was looking for; I am not a big expert: I can just copy.
Concerning the plat amp I have to look for something different; here in Europe it should be easier to find a Monacor plate (more expensive anyway).

Northernsky
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Old 25th July 2013, 07:46 PM   #10
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I agree the amp used in the triska is not the best (I own it). I'd recommend 100+ watts for a sub amp.
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