My system is similar (FE103E in BR tuned to ~80Hz). My only recommendation is to make sure that the plate amp has an adjustable low-pass filter, so you can blend the sub in (by adjusting its uppermost frequency).
For example, in my case, I have a floor-to-ceiling resonance (room mode) at about 70Hz. So the FE103's play down to 80Hz, then the sub is limited at ~60Hz, to avoid aggravating the 70Hz "boom".
For example, in my case, I have a floor-to-ceiling resonance (room mode) at about 70Hz. So the FE103's play down to 80Hz, then the sub is limited at ~60Hz, to avoid aggravating the 70Hz "boom".
You might want to check out what James Shearer did for a sub for use with his Met's. It is the "Triska" design. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/124420-another-triska-sub.html
Parts Express DIY Project
Parts Express DIY Project
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Uh! I did something like the Triska sub, having two Peerless woofers (subs )
one of them had the voice coil former detached from the cone ( abuse !)
so I detached also the magnet and transformed it into a passive.
I added some weight too.
The wood, i got it from a couch on the street.
The two radiators are placed on the near walls of the box, but the passive ( or the active
) might be placed on the opposite face.
I don't understand why the electonics have to fit inside the box !?!
Mine is powered by a BTL 2 W amplifier so...4 W or something. The electronic filter ( based on a TL 074 ) as the amplifier belongs from a Philips 2.1 system.
It now plays ( I didn't tell them the trick ! ) with a pair of Whaferdale Diamond 9.1 powered by 20 + 20 W .
one of them had the voice coil former detached from the cone ( abuse !)
so I detached also the magnet and transformed it into a passive.
I added some weight too.
The wood, i got it from a couch on the street.
The two radiators are placed on the near walls of the box, but the passive ( or the active
) might be placed on the opposite face.I don't understand why the electonics have to fit inside the box !?!
Mine is powered by a BTL 2 W amplifier so...4 W or something. The electronic filter ( based on a TL 074 ) as the amplifier belongs from a Philips 2.1 system.
It now plays ( I didn't tell them the trick ! ) with a pair of Whaferdale Diamond 9.1 powered by 20 + 20 W .
I use a very cheap Hsu 10" sub. It has the low-pass -- I had intended to get the model which -also- has a high-pass. But I guess I didn't read the fine print.
So now, I go direct to a Bottlehead amp (no high pass), and then I use the low-pass to blend in the sub. But it's convenient if you get a plate amp which -also- has the high pass (as an option, at least for experimenting).
My system is running a Dayton 12" ($120) from Parts express. Not sure if it can hook to a computer or not though...never tried. It's a great sub if you want to bring the ceiling down. It's paired with a set of Homebrew OB's with Fostex 103En's a pair of full range 5"ers I got out of my old Magnavox 50" bigscreen and a pair of Eminence Alpha 15's for the thump. Just got the crossover figured out today.
It's paired with a set of Homebrew OB's with Fostex 103En's a pair of full range 5"ers I got out of my old Magnavox 50" bigscreen and a pair of Eminence Alpha 15's for the thump. Just got the crossover figured out today.
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