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Old 24th July 2013, 01:49 AM   #11
xrk971 is online now xrk971  United States
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Although only available as either a prebuilt eval board or as bare IC for a diy amp, I can say that the Texas Instruments TPA3116D2 sounds excellent. Better than Tripath, better than my Yamaha RX360 class AB, and better than LM3886 Gainclone type. If someone starts making these packaged like a Topping or Fiio it will be very competitive. 50 watts/ch and very low distortion and great detail.

TPA3118D2

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Last edited by xrk971; 24th July 2013 at 01:56 AM.
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Old 24th July 2013, 01:53 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by xrk971 View Post
Although only available as either a prebuilt eval board or as bare IC for a diy amp, I can say that the Texas Instruments TPA3116D2 sounds excellent. Better than Tripath, better than my Yamaha RX360 class AB, and better than LM3886 Gainclone type. If someone starts making these packaged like a Topping or Fiio it will be very competitive. 50 watts/ch and very low distortion and great detail.
Thanks for posting! More things to research! Oh, and spend money on. Looks like more OT will be needed.
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Old 24th July 2013, 02:30 AM   #13
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Lepai is absolutely the bottom of the barrel as far a quality. Since your model is not in the PE catalog, I presume that they were clearing the shelf. I don't know which chip is in it, but it is probably a T2020 or T2022. If you have a power supply large enough to support it, that amp will give you ~7w/ch @ 0.1% THD into 8 ohms. The Topping's are much better built, but are still using the now ancient TriPath chips. The FiiO, as Dave pointed out is using a NXP chip a generation newer. I have now idea about build quality, but IMO you need to spend upward of $200 to get a decent quality D-amp with any guts to it.

Bob
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Old 24th July 2013, 02:51 AM   #14
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Lepai is absolutely the bottom of the barrel as far a quality. Since your model is not in the PE catalog, I presume that they were clearing the shelf. I don't know which chip is in it, but it is probably a T2020 or T2022. If you have a power supply large enough to support it, that amp will give you ~7w/ch @ 0.1% THD into 8 ohms. The Topping's are much better built, but are still using the now ancient TriPath chips. The FiiO, as Dave pointed out is using a NXP chip a generation newer. I have now idea about build quality, but IMO you need to spend upward of $200 to get a decent quality D-amp with any guts to it.

Bob
LOL Yeah I know the Lepai is at the bottom. I only listened to it on the Dayton B652s for about 5 min or so. Not terrible, not great, but certainly good enough to make noise out in the garage. Oh, and it has a remote!

Before I make the investment into a much higher end amp I want to do more research and see what you guys have to say on here. It's been a long time since I've been up to date on stuff. A DIY amp seems like it could be a fun adventure and some great bang for the buck. So somewhere down the road I expect that to happen. Maybe a tube amp because they look so cool glowing. Who knows! I've built several computers, but SS and tubes are a whole new ballgame.
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Old 24th July 2013, 11:50 AM   #15
Squeak is offline Squeak  Denmark
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Just checked the kits plan on Madisound out of curiosity and it seems it is already chamfered? A little more can't hurt, if done with care, but it seems you don't have to.

I don't get how side padding isn't in the plan though, especially since the drawings were made by Dave.

Remember that the 126 is 93 dB, you'll easily get by with 15 watts into 8 Ohms.
Now, a stronger amp might be able to sound more authoritative at lower levels, but you (or someone else) also run the risk of accidentally blowing the drivers.
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Old 24th July 2013, 02:06 PM   #16
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Just checked the kits plan on Madisound out of curiosity and it seems it is already chamfered? A little more can't hurt, if done with care, but it seems you don't have to.

I don't get how side padding isn't in the plan though, especially since the drawings were made by Dave.

Remember that the 126 is 93 dB, you'll easily get by with 15 watts into 8 Ohms.
Now, a stronger amp might be able to sound more authoritative at lower levels, but you (or someone else) also run the risk of accidentally blowing the drivers.
We built the cab, it isn't a flat pack. My brother freaked me out; he looked at the cut list and just started cutting. I guess with 25 yrs of experience he should be able to do that. Me, I'd have to draw every single piece out and measure 10 times.

The 56.3 degree angle? No problem when you have one of these. The kid has some serious woodworking tools.
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Click the image to open in full size.


I plan on playing with the padding and stuffing till it's to the point I really like it. I do realize I don't need anything more than 15 watts. I have a much bigger system if I feel the need for concert levels. I'm curious to hear what kind of punch it has, but no matter what I plan on adding a sub to lower any risk of over-excursion . (hence the title of the thread)
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Old 24th July 2013, 02:34 PM   #17
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I don't get how side padding isn't in the plan though, especially since the drawings were made by Dave.
FYI, since BK-12m was designed as a kit speaker for Madisound, I assumed it would be easier for them to supply hollow-fibre stuffing in the requisite quantities than lining material. So that's what I specified. Since it is a scoop-bin style back-horn, stuffing is also typically a little more, not less, effective since it can be evenly distributed through the cross-section of the horn rather than being fixed to the boundaries.
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Old 24th July 2013, 04:48 PM   #18
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The plans do recommend fill and make no mention of lining. IMO, try it and see. How do we know if it was tried or not? It's just time right? I read someone put some felt on the panel behind the driver and liked that tweak. I've never had a horn speaker and so I've never played with tweaking one. I'm looking forward to playing. The FiiO is out for delivery! Drivers tomorrow!
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Old 24th July 2013, 04:57 PM   #19
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Indeed they do. I know this, because I designed it. Anything else is for the end user to experiment with. This is DIY after all, and not being a magician, I can't account for all tastes / rooms / systems. Playing with damping is usually worth doing to help dial speakers in to a given set of circumstances -particularly with horns. FWIW, I strongly advise avoiding open-cell / egg-crate foam. Its damping properties are abysmal.

Last edited by Scottmoose; 24th July 2013 at 04:59 PM.
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Old 24th July 2013, 06:59 PM   #20
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Indeed they do. I know this, because I designed it. Anything else is for the end user to experiment with. This is DIY after all, and not being a magician, I can't account for all tastes / rooms / systems. Playing with damping is usually worth doing to help dial speakers in to a given set of circumstances -particularly with horns. FWIW, I strongly advise avoiding open-cell / egg-crate foam. Its damping properties are abysmal.
Well it's awesome to meet you Scott!

I wasn't thinking of the egg create at all. Polyfil ok??? With it being assembled, I obviously can't put anything in the top where you listed it as optional. Did you notice a lot of difference with stuffing there? Anything else you did to them that you liked, or more importantly that you didn't like?
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