Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FDs

[kking85743]

Kking,
Sorry, you are right - I was reading my own text incorrectly. The proper size is as the post title states:

0.44x/0.55xW K'nator with FE103

Kind of wide and short aspect ratio. If you tried on a 0.50x scale and it sounds great, use it!

Thanks for the clarification.

My issue is that the .50 I built houses both drivers. I'm trying to see what the proper size is if I split the pair for use as separate Left and Right speakers. This build was strictly for experience, and not destined for long-term use.

The other thought was to make Cornu out of them, on a 20x20" scale. Any thoughts as to how well suited these drivers are to that configuration?

 

[Jiraiken]

Thinking about a couple of 0.4x karlsonators for satellite speakers working together with my 0.53x, using only the 0.53 as stereo and the four of them for TV/movies/games, would you recommend them? Which driver would you use?

 

[xrk971]

I prefer the 3FE-25 over the TC9FD for higher sensitivity. They sound great in 0.4x

 

[perceval]

Ha! X was faster than me on the keyboard!

If your budget is tight, then the TC9s are nice and balanced.

If you can spend a little more, the Faitals will give you more oomph! That would be good for movies, though I would still add a subwoofer for movies.

 

[xrk971]

There is a deal at Madisound for 4 ohm TG9FD fiberglass cones for $9. They are supposedly only 5W but might make a nice set of near fields 0.40x K's for powering with a small desktop Class D 4-ohm capable amp. The sound of the fiberglass cone is very smooth.

 

[Jiraiken]

I have had very good results with the faitals so I will go for them, they are not very expensive anyway.

The problem with the subwoofer is that I can not place it anywhere, the best place I have is below a lack ikea table wich is in one of the sides of the sofa... small living room.

 

[xrk971]

Have you tried to make a flat subwoofer using a flat driver? Very compact boxes can then be hidden under a sofa etc.

 

[Jiraiken]

Under the sofa I only have ~5cm... However, I could mount some kind of flat subwoofer in the wall behind the TV, or have some flat sub in the side of the sofa, I will investigate it. Do you know some?

 

[xrk971]

For example a ready made powered 10in sub. You can buy the driver separately - they are very good. I have used the drivers extensively in several subs myself.

Dayton Audio SUB-1000L 10" 100 Watt Low-Profile Powered Subwoofer

Dayton Audio LS10-44 10" Low Profile Subwoofer Dual 4 Ohm

 

[spongeman]

is that any version of 0.71X

 

[xrk971]

No, those 10in flat Dayton’s are used in a front-loaded folded bass horn topology of my own design.

I don’t think Karlsonator is most efficient for a subwoofer. Compact subs that are really efficient and powerful while compact are slot loaded band pass designs. A pair of economical car audio 12in Alpine SWRs or similar Infinity’s will reach 40Hz and 132dB easy. I have several threads in subwoofer forum describing them.

PP Slot Loaded Sub with Alpine SWR 12D2

 

[gkh]

Could one of you guys please check the metric dimensions for the 0,4x with 3FE25? Somehow they seem a bit off

 

[freddi]

spongeman - re:0.71X - if asking about a cabinet - there is the Karlsonator 6 which should work well enough with Foxtex (I ran a de-whizzered FE164)- I have the old prototype loaded with L.Cao F6 (qts ~0.7). When I first tried it, I didn't realize the stub needed damping material - it did not sound good empty

Karlsonator6 plan

http://i.imgur.com/xp0P8go.png

a Karlsonator6 per GregB's plan tunes to about 60Hz

 

[xrk971]

Gkh,
I think it looks fine. 5mm off is no big deal as it is quite forgiving. I would rotate driver mount 45 deg to make screw holes away from bottom edge.
Good luck!

 

[gkh]

Thank you, X! To me, it looked somehow squat, but if you say it's fine, I'll give it a go.

Regarding the screws, I'm afraid I couldn't access the top ones, but we'll see.

 

[xrk971]

Thank you, X! To me, it looked somehow squat, but if you say it's fine, I'll give it a go.

Regarding the screws, I'm afraid I couldn't access the top ones, but we'll see.

Good point if you want to make the K aperure non-removable and just stick a screwdriver there. It may be tricky to negotiate the K aperture to put driver in though - it is possible as I have done it.

 

[gkh]

I was thinking of a flexible allen wrench with ball key
The plan is to build one prototype first, and then the other 6 (or 7) optimised pieces.

 

[xrk971]

I was thinking of a flexible allen wrench with ball key

Great idea. I poked a small hole in my aperture to allow a screwdriver. I actually have hex cap screws now so can use the Bondhus ball drivers.

 

[xrk971]

Freddi just ran across what appears to be the spittin’ image of a Dayton PA130-8 from MCM for $8ea. This would be very useful in a Karlsonator loaded with four in series parallel. I think it would be about a full size 1.0x Karlsonator with 97dB sensitivity at 8ohms and 2.83v.

http://www.newark.com/mcm-audio-select/55-1595/audio-visual-audio-video-loudspeaker/dp/11C1076

 

[freddi]

$55.04 buys Eight shipped - there's a coupon in theory to further reduce the price by 15% but could not find a place to enter it in the test of the checkout - perhaps after the payment info is entered (?)

btw - the full size Karlsonator ("Karlsonator12" by GregB) works well with 12lta, and should work with a number of 12 and 10 drivers. Fb on mine measures ~37Hz so keep that in mind.