Hi Xrk-
I can see back in 2013 you did a measurement for Freddi for his Audio Nirvana Super 8s, I believe it was the Karlsonator 8.
I have a pair of Audio Nirvana 8 Alnicos, which have very different parameters. http://www.commonsenseaudio.com/an8alnicospecs.jpg
I currently have them in the standard bass reflex box that Common Sense Audio recommends ('Monitor MkII' (24T x 11.25W x 13.5D inches or 610 x 286 x 343 mm)), but I know for sure they are not optimal for these drivers. I also have a subwoofer to help from the 30Hz-200Hz region.
Do you think they would work better in Karlsonator boxes? If so, do you have a particular one to recommend me pursue?
Thanks sincerely for your advice in advance!
I can see back in 2013 you did a measurement for Freddi for his Audio Nirvana Super 8s, I believe it was the Karlsonator 8.
I have a pair of Audio Nirvana 8 Alnicos, which have very different parameters. http://www.commonsenseaudio.com/an8alnicospecs.jpg
I currently have them in the standard bass reflex box that Common Sense Audio recommends ('Monitor MkII' (24T x 11.25W x 13.5D inches or 610 x 286 x 343 mm)), but I know for sure they are not optimal for these drivers. I also have a subwoofer to help from the 30Hz-200Hz region.
Do you think they would work better in Karlsonator boxes? If so, do you have a particular one to recommend me pursue?
Thanks sincerely for your advice in advance!
Hello X et al. I discovered this thread a few days ago and am ordering the parts to build an MK 0.4x. Read thru alot of pages here over and over, but can't seem to find the method for connecting the driver to the foam core board. I know they're screwed on, but screws go into what? And how much can the foam take b4 it malforms? Thanks.
I finished a pair of MK 0.4X and they are breaking in. Sound very good so far. Thanks for the suggestions on anchoring the mounting screws. I found some scrap plastic venetian blind hardware that I cut up and it did the trick. I used a pdf for the folding model that someone posted; unfortunately I have not been able to relocate the link. When I read it last week it seemed to be easy to find, but alas, no more. Anyway, I was diligent to cut the pieces close to 1/100 inch as per the diagrams. Unfortunately when I started assembling everything, it became apparent that nothing fit right. DOH! Foam core is much pricier around here ($3/sheet) and I didn't feel like making the long drive into town so I just changed measurements inside on the run. The second unit was more in line with the plan as I started knowing what I was in for. Neither unit is to spec, and the first is really bad. Nevertheless they sound great to my critical ear. So a succesful project. These will soon go into my friend's recording studio instead of Auratones (5" cubes), for checking mixes on smallish everyday speakers. (These may be too good. And I may decide to not part with them 
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)Attachments
The MK 0.4X's are breaking in; been running them round the clock since the glue dried. Some stuff sounds really good, but other material doesn't. It dawned on me what I don't like is a seemingly large bump up in the 100-200 Hz range (just a guess). Is this inherent in the design, or do I need to redo the throats more to spec? Or is there another way to tame those frequencies without doing it electronically? Thanks.
gkh- ur comment about comparing them to auratones is daring- do you believe one is an obvious better speaker, and if so which?
gkh- ur comment about comparing them to auratones is daring- do you believe one is an obvious better speaker, and if so which?
Bonjonno,
The sound might be improved with a second layer added to the front K aperture. Glue it on using softer non-hardening glue like latex caulking. The secondary vibrations from that panel may be giving you too much mid-bass. Also, glue felt to inside of k aperture and fron baffle panel holding drivers.
Auratones have no bass below 120Hz - so will not sound very full compared to these.
The sound might be improved with a second layer added to the front K aperture. Glue it on using softer non-hardening glue like latex caulking. The secondary vibrations from that panel may be giving you too much mid-bass. Also, glue felt to inside of k aperture and fron baffle panel holding drivers.
Auratones have no bass below 120Hz - so will not sound very full compared to these.
Thanks xrk971. I have been reading about ur foam creations every available free minute! There is so much information as I have come into the game kinda late. Last night I noticed that it was suggested to put some weight on top of the speakers to lessen that upper bass frequency. I tried it and it seems better. Also the drivers may just be breaking in better. They have about 50+ hours now. I put felt on the back of the speaker baffle originally; I may remove the front K aperture and put felt on that as well.
The overall sound is pretty stunning, especially when I add my $90 10" powered sub which crosses at ~80Hz. I used to think that was cheap, but these speaks were $36! I am awaiting a chip amp from China that was $2.34 shipped, just to complete the works. It's a TDA7297, class A-B max 15 watts/ch. I am using these MK's where I previously had some 20 year old MDF boxes with Vifa 5" and 1" aluminum tweeter, madisound crossover. They weigh about 25X as much! The sound is different of course, but totally listenable and enjoyable. Thanks for ur designs. I may go the stereo MLTL route next for my TV sound. Or Cornu's if I'm brave. Still haven't found a cheap foamcore source here. Will check Dollar store tomorrow; they may have a minimum of 25pcs.
The overall sound is pretty stunning, especially when I add my $90 10" powered sub which crosses at ~80Hz. I used to think that was cheap, but these speaks were $36! I am awaiting a chip amp from China that was $2.34 shipped, just to complete the works. It's a TDA7297, class A-B max 15 watts/ch. I am using these MK's where I previously had some 20 year old MDF boxes with Vifa 5" and 1" aluminum tweeter, madisound crossover. They weigh about 25X as much! The sound is different of course, but totally listenable and enjoyable. Thanks for ur designs. I may go the stereo MLTL route next for my TV sound. Or Cornu's if I'm brave. Still haven't found a cheap foamcore source here. Will check Dollar store tomorrow; they may have a minimum of 25pcs.
The TDA7297 (aka "Lunch Money amp") is an excellent choice. Superb bass. Upgrade the power rail cap to a decent brand like Panasonic FM, and upgrade input caps to decent Wima MKS and you may be surprised at the sound quality.
Also worth trying is the TDA8932 monoblock from Sanwu. IMO, that is the best amp to pair with a mini-Karlsonator for sound quality.
TDA8932 35W Digital Amplifier Board Module Mono Low Power Stereo Amplifier | eBay
If you need more bass, add a mild BSC circuit with a cheap 1mH inductor and parallel with about 4.7ohm 5w resistor. This will reduce overall sensitivity a bit but overall balance will be more bass. Carbon film resistors are great here - smooth sound.
10pcs 1mH Inductor choke Radial Lead Power Inductor 6*8 | eBay
20 PCS 4.7 ohm 4.7R 5Watt Carbon Film Resistors 5W Resistor 5% Tolerance #1977
Put 1mH choke and resistor in parallel and put that assembly in series with amp and speaker +ve. Put assembly inside speaker hidden if you want. You can adjust R value to taste but 4.7ohms is a good place to start.
Anyone who tells you that you need a $15 air-coil inductor hasn't heard what a $0.50 unit can sound like. There is so little current that saturation is not an issue.
Also worth trying is the TDA8932 monoblock from Sanwu. IMO, that is the best amp to pair with a mini-Karlsonator for sound quality.
TDA8932 35W Digital Amplifier Board Module Mono Low Power Stereo Amplifier | eBay
If you need more bass, add a mild BSC circuit with a cheap 1mH inductor and parallel with about 4.7ohm 5w resistor. This will reduce overall sensitivity a bit but overall balance will be more bass. Carbon film resistors are great here - smooth sound.
10pcs 1mH Inductor choke Radial Lead Power Inductor 6*8 | eBay
20 PCS 4.7 ohm 4.7R 5Watt Carbon Film Resistors 5W Resistor 5% Tolerance #1977
Put 1mH choke and resistor in parallel and put that assembly in series with amp and speaker +ve. Put assembly inside speaker hidden if you want. You can adjust R value to taste but 4.7ohms is a good place to start.
Anyone who tells you that you need a $15 air-coil inductor hasn't heard what a $0.50 unit can sound like. There is so little current that saturation is not an issue.
Great stuff, thank you. You have saved me oodles of time trying to find the best tweaks for that board. I am currently sidelined by getting the latest Windows to FINALLY download and install; now I'm cleaning up a dozen little messes. I'll report back when I get this all happening and installed in the studio
