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Old 14th July 2013, 10:00 PM   #11
AndrewR is offline AndrewR  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottmoose View Post
No problem.

The driver is already fairly near the top; it can't be shifted any further up though without impacting on the performance.

Yes, it's akin to the pensils, but not the same as. The alignments are different, although the generalised type is similar.
Hi Scott,

Thanks for the clarification. I won't place then right at the top, will leave about an inch between the frame and interior top.

Cheers,

Andrew
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Old 15th July 2013, 06:00 AM   #12
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The tap location is given above under Zd: driver centre = 5.625in from the internal top (which will be about 2in between the internal top & the frame).
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Old 15th July 2013, 05:36 PM   #13
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Pensils have Mark Audio drivers, these called L'Stylo (thanx Chris)

dave

Well, since Pensils are generally considered in at least pairs, I was thinking "les"
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Old 15th July 2013, 07:32 PM   #14
AndrewR is offline AndrewR  United Kingdom
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Originally Posted by Scottmoose View Post
The tap location is given above under Zd: driver centre = 5.625in from the internal top (which will be about 2in between the internal top & the frame).
Many thanks Scottmoose, I will come back in a few days with the blueprint and woodcuts diagram.

Andrew
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Old 15th July 2013, 07:57 PM   #15
IG81 is offline IG81  Canada
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Originally Posted by AndrewR View Post
I'll be using a logarithmic pot on the input, so that should help - but 30dB does seem like massive gain.

Andrew
I think one could trick the chip by swamping the inernal circuitry with a resistor from the output pins (4 & 6) to pin 8 and from pin 8 a resistor to ground. It checks out in SPICE actually, but feedback from one channel will be entering the other one (vice-versa) and I'd have to do a more extensive sim to evaluate the effects of this. Simply re-using the internal valules (20k and 680R) drops the gain to ~20dB. I would not try this just yet.

IG
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Old 16th July 2013, 08:13 PM   #16
AndrewR is offline AndrewR  United Kingdom
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Default FF105WK Le Stylo - Isometric Drawing

Dear all,

As promised I have attached the plans. I have yet to draw the wood cuts. One thing to note, I will be interlocking the front, top, back and base pieces for rigidity and make one side removable until I am happy with the stuffing.

The red squares indicate the interlocking tong & groove, hence the wood cuts of the front and back will be taller than the dimensions shown - to add the tong lengths.

One more question, is the WxD ratio critical? I prefer a wider front with less depth, is this okay providing I reduce the port height to maintain the same port area?

Click the image to open in full size.

Cheers,

Andrew
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Last edited by AndrewR; 16th July 2013 at 08:23 PM.
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Old 16th July 2013, 09:22 PM   #17
AndrewR is offline AndrewR  United Kingdom
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Okay, here are the wood cuts, in mm and assuming 18mm thick material. I'll be going for 18mm Baltic Birch.

Click the image to open in full size.

Andrew
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Old 16th July 2013, 09:29 PM   #18
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... assuming 18mm thick materialw
When you get your ply. check the actual thickness (in more than one place).

dave
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Old 16th July 2013, 09:53 PM   #19
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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if you'd like the wider / shallower aspect and can live with the vent on the side, why not just mount the drivers on panel C?


5x5 "Russian" Baltic Birch typically runs around 17.5, with the North American domestic 4x8 "Euro / Apple" at 18.5.

After adjusting your cut plan for the actual material thickness, the minor variations from that norm, or of even as much as .5mm across the length / width of a sheet to which Dave refers that we've observed would normally not be much of an issue unless you're planning on dadoes for internal panels, rebates / lock mitres etc around the perimeter, or on designs such as Olson / Nagaoka manifolds
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Old 16th July 2013, 10:06 PM   #20
AndrewR is offline AndrewR  United Kingdom
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Thanks Dave and Chris for the recommendations, particularly with checking the thickness when routing lock mitres.

By the way, is glueing 10mm thick open cell packing foam along the inside of the top, bottom and back panels a useful alternative approach to stuffing with Dacron? e.g. this:

Click the image to open in full size.

Andrew
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