Burned Wharfedale Super# Voice Coil - diyAudio
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Old 10th April 2013, 12:43 AM   #1
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Location: Rockaway, NY
Default Burned Wharfedale Super# Voice Coil

I was hoping someone could suggest a solution to a burned voice coil in a Wharfedale Super3 Tweeter. This is the ALNCO version for which I have a working twin. I own the ceramic magnet version which is also on a 1" paper
former - edge wound aluminum. Is there any chance of swapping coils from
a sacrificial ceramic model? I have tried all the custom coil makers and vintage
speaker repair folks. A very laconic and ungenerous lot. I would appreciate a nudge in the right direction. Thanks in advance.

Jason
Rockaway Beach NY
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Old 10th April 2013, 02:02 AM   #2
JMFahey is offline JMFahey  Argentina
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Quote:
I have tried all the custom coil makers and vintage
speaker repair folks
Well, that's a bad symptom, isn't it?
Sorry but if the Pros say it can't be done, .... there must be something to it.
Why do you think it's an edgewound aluminum coil?
In those years, the technology was available, no doubt, but justified only in "Pro" Cinema/Studio (think Altec/JBL) stuff, maybe a Vitavox driver meant for a Cinema, not so in Home Hi Fi.

Maybe you could "transplant" a cone/voice coil assembly from a Ceramic to an Alnico magnet, but not sure they would match (specs might have changed) and there is a definite possibility of damage, losing both in the process.
Worst case, I'd straight mount the ceramic teweeter in that cabinet and call it a day.
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Old 10th April 2013, 02:26 AM   #3
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Now you have me wondering where I got the aluminum VC info from. I believe an early
catalog mentions that many models had them however the Super3 may not have.
When I inspected the VC it did look copperish however I chalked that up to aging varnish
or whatever they used as an insulator for the coil. To the point of simply using the ceramic versions, logic would dictate this solution but no part of my audio odyssey has been driven by logic. Rather a manaical pursuit of of the "right" sound. This has led me to older and older drivers through the Goodmans and Wharfedale line. I openly admit the folly of this strategy but have enjoyed process and the results. The ceramics do sound damn good and offer something my ten pound CD horns can't deliver.
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Old 10th April 2013, 02:58 AM   #4
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Some eye candy.....
URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/22/imageghg.jpg/]Click the image to open in full size.[/URL]
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 10th April 2013, 02:59 AM   #5
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High Res.

http://imageshack.us/a/img22/6328/imageghg.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img29/2928/imageurrv.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img819/2240/imagevfh.jpg
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Old 10th April 2013, 03:19 AM   #6
VaNarn is offline VaNarn  Australia
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Definitely round aluminium wire,that in the earliest models was of the cotton covered variety and in the later ones could be coloured in a green or a mauve wet bonding enamelled wire type.Winding height for the last named is 7/32" and I believe it is the same for the cotton covered version.The veteran Wharfedales can be disassembled with acetone to dissolve the cellulose nitrate bonding cement which holds the coil former to the cone neck.The only difficulty in repairing a Super 3,providing you can get a coil,is the need to solder the aluminium wire to the pigtails(which should be replaced as part of the repair).
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Old 10th April 2013, 03:36 AM   #7
VaNarn is offline VaNarn  Australia
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The photos reveal that you have an interim model.The frame and cone are the same as for the ceramic magnet although yours have the foam surround rather than the grey flannel cloth fitted to the subsequent form.
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Old 10th April 2013, 04:03 AM   #8
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VaNarn,
Holy Cr*P you are a wealth of knowledge. Thank you! does this mean that they are good
candidates for a coil transplant from a donor ceramic model?

Regards

Jason
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Old 10th April 2013, 05:44 AM   #9
VaNarn is offline VaNarn  Australia
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For sure Rockaway,given the correct parts and the right skills,what you have is repairable.You have the correct frame for the curved cone and the coil size is the same. You may have to shift the coil position to align for equal overhang about the outer pole plate as the ceramic magnet has an undercut edge at the gap interface.Also the flat corrugated spider can be beneficially replaced with a cup style one if the original shows signs of fatigue.
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Old 10th April 2013, 11:05 AM   #10
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Well here is the problem perhaps. There is no spider and I was under the impression that there never was one. I have seen these with a fine mesh bag, perhaps to keep the gap clean. Is this possible?
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