hi
i found these full range speakers that are dirt cheap, 5 dollars each. they are 8" with the ff. specs.
Paper Cone. Foam Surround. Whizzer for extended highs.
Z = 8 Ohm (7.1 Ohm dc)
Freq. 50-20KHz (±6dB)
Fo 54Hz
Sens' 91dB
Magnet 8 Oz
Power 30W nom.
Voice 25mm
Qms 2.32
Qes 0.91
Qts 0.65
Vas 47.11L
Zo 24 Ohm
Sd 0.022M²
http://www.wescomponents.com/Speakers/dualcone/Dc8-30/dc8-30.htm -picture is here
the magnet seems to be so light 9 oz only. so any ideas what i can do here? maybe get 4 of these and put it in one box? and also can you please help me get a box design for this driver. what size, ported or sealed.
based on the data, is this a good full range speaker?
thanks!
i found these full range speakers that are dirt cheap, 5 dollars each. they are 8" with the ff. specs.
Paper Cone. Foam Surround. Whizzer for extended highs.
Z = 8 Ohm (7.1 Ohm dc)
Freq. 50-20KHz (±6dB)
Fo 54Hz
Sens' 91dB
Magnet 8 Oz
Power 30W nom.
Voice 25mm
Qms 2.32
Qes 0.91
Qts 0.65
Vas 47.11L
Zo 24 Ohm
Sd 0.022M²
http://www.wescomponents.com/Speakers/dualcone/Dc8-30/dc8-30.htm -picture is here
the magnet seems to be so light 9 oz only. so any ideas what i can do here? maybe get 4 of these and put it in one box? and also can you please help me get a box design for this driver. what size, ported or sealed.
based on the data, is this a good full range speaker?
thanks!
The data doesn't tell us much about how it will sound except in the LF. Some cheap FR drivers are 'diamonds in the rough' so they require a number of tweaks to sound worth keeping. Rabbitz sounds as though he has personal experience with them, which I don't, so as always, YMMV.
Anyway, this one models surprisingly well in a ML-TL (at least with the published specs), near 95dB eff. and extension to 30Hz, so if you want to gamble some time and wood on at least one prototype to see if you want to expend any more time/$$ on them:
55" x 13.88" x 8.63"
driver down 18" from top
all dims inside
4" dia x 0.75" long vent near the bottom
~31 oz of stuffing distributed from the top down to the bottom of the driver for a first approximation.
GM
Anyway, this one models surprisingly well in a ML-TL (at least with the published specs), near 95dB eff. and extension to 30Hz, so if you want to gamble some time and wood on at least one prototype to see if you want to expend any more time/$$ on them:
55" x 13.88" x 8.63"
driver down 18" from top
all dims inside
4" dia x 0.75" long vent near the bottom
~31 oz of stuffing distributed from the top down to the bottom of the driver for a first approximation.
GM
Whilst I haven't used these particular drivers, I have used quite a number of other Dai-1chi speakers and find they are excellent value for money and sound quite good. Dai-1chi is one of the biggest Taiwanese OEM manufacturers, and chances are that many of us have heard them in various equipment without knowing it.
As they are cheap, grab a couple and experiment - you may be pleasantly surprised.
Cheers
As they are cheap, grab a couple and experiment - you may be pleasantly surprised.
Cheers
With a QTS of .65 it could be quite surprising in an open baffle (would certainlly make for very cheap speaker), don't be scared to modify/remove the wizzer cone if it sounds harsh in the top end.
I might pick up a pair the next time we do a wes order, I have a set of baffles to suit 8'' drivers kicking around...
I might pick up a pair the next time we do a wes order, I have a set of baffles to suit 8'' drivers kicking around...
hi
i understand that this is a full range driver, but are there any benefits if i use 3 or four of these in one vented box? how do you do it?
or can i just add a woofer or a subwoofer to complement the bass?without using any crossovers.
another question regarding a full range driver, i understand that a full range can make low and high frequencies, but up to what extent can it generate the sound?
thanks in advance
i understand that this is a full range driver, but are there any benefits if i use 3 or four of these in one vented box? how do you do it?
or can i just add a woofer or a subwoofer to complement the bass?without using any crossovers.
another question regarding a full range driver, i understand that a full range can make low and high frequencies, but up to what extent can it generate the sound?
thanks in advance
> understand that this is a full range driver, but are there any benefits if i use 3 or four of these in one vented box? how do you do it?
====
Of course there's the increased efficiency, but due to their size, the extras will have to be rolled off to keep them from comb filtering to the point of destroying any imaging/soundstaging they can generate as a single driver. Due to their relatively high Q and the need for doubling cab volume for every doubling of speakers, two/cab in a bipole design is about the limit size wise for most folks (~8ft^3).
Since they're so cheap though, an isobaric design would be a good way to keep their size a bit more reasonable if you have enough power to drive them all.
====
>or can i just add a woofer or a subwoofer to complement the bass?without using any crossovers.
====
Yes, you could put the FR in a reasonably small OB or sealed cab, but unless you can find a woofer with just the right specs to complement the roll off of the FR, you'll need at least an inductor on the it to get a good blend. Some folks use BP subs to get around this, but unless the 'XO point' is fairly low (<60Hz), they have too much audible distortion IMO, but millions of happy B*** customers disagree, so as always, YMMV.
====
>another question regarding a full range driver, i understand that a full range can make low and high frequencies, but up to what extent can it generate the sound?
====
It depends on it's net efficiency, which generally speaking isn't too good with most FR drivers below 100-500Hz depending on its Qts. IOW, don't expect to go 'live' with Heavy Metal or front row center at the Boston Pops even with a sub, and possibly a super tweeter, since there's just not enough dynamic range available without horn loading them.
GM
====
Of course there's the increased efficiency, but due to their size, the extras will have to be rolled off to keep them from comb filtering to the point of destroying any imaging/soundstaging they can generate as a single driver. Due to their relatively high Q and the need for doubling cab volume for every doubling of speakers, two/cab in a bipole design is about the limit size wise for most folks (~8ft^3).
Since they're so cheap though, an isobaric design would be a good way to keep their size a bit more reasonable if you have enough power to drive them all.
====
>or can i just add a woofer or a subwoofer to complement the bass?without using any crossovers.
====
Yes, you could put the FR in a reasonably small OB or sealed cab, but unless you can find a woofer with just the right specs to complement the roll off of the FR, you'll need at least an inductor on the it to get a good blend. Some folks use BP subs to get around this, but unless the 'XO point' is fairly low (<60Hz), they have too much audible distortion IMO, but millions of happy B*** customers disagree, so as always, YMMV.
====
>another question regarding a full range driver, i understand that a full range can make low and high frequencies, but up to what extent can it generate the sound?
====
It depends on it's net efficiency, which generally speaking isn't too good with most FR drivers below 100-500Hz depending on its Qts. IOW, don't expect to go 'live' with Heavy Metal or front row center at the Boston Pops even with a sub, and possibly a super tweeter, since there's just not enough dynamic range available without horn loading them.
GM
Qts is too high for a reflex speaker unless its huge.
Suggest you put two in a box 35 to 45 litres.
Remove the 'whizzer cone' from the lower one and experiment
with various inductor values to roll it off to give baffle step correction.
Run the the top unit full range.
At $10 a side seems pointless to spend too much on the cabinets.
sreten.
Suggest you put two in a box 35 to 45 litres.
Remove the 'whizzer cone' from the lower one and experiment
with various inductor values to roll it off to give baffle step correction.
Run the the top unit full range.
At $10 a side seems pointless to spend too much on the cabinets.
sreten.
Big box necessary, but so what? The thing is, hardly anybody puts a small cheap speaker in a good box. That's why almost everyone says you will get crummy results. Because they used a crummy box. Put it in a good box - I have a pair of WES DAi-1chi SP8-100's, $30 ea in a pair of 245 litre boxes and they go down to 30Hz and surprise everyone that hears them.
BTW, my catalogue says $14.50. Are they on special or something?
Put it in a good box - I have a pair of WES DAi-1chi SP8-100's, $30 ea in a pair of 245 litre boxes and they go down to 30Hz and surprise everyone that hears them. BTW, my catalogue says $14.50. Are they on special or something?
Attachments
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.