Besides having had the drivers, one of the reasonsfor the SDX7/A7 Copper, was that the original impetus for the Mark Audio copper colour (in the CHR70.1) was to have a driver that matched the SDX7 phase plugs.
With requisite changes the design can be dne with other mid-basses... Bob has a new 7" which looks to suit (vented box thou)
dave
I look forward to hearing about a possible contender for the FAST build.
I have to conclude that I'm an irredeemable tinker, I spent last night immersed in JJ Cales back catalogue and the music lacked nothing, sublime (10.3 pensil) They just seem to keep getting better, I would guesstimate at 700 hours now.
FR rocks!
I have to conclude that I'm an irredeemable tinker, I spent last night immersed in JJ Cales back catalogue and the music lacked nothing, sublime (10.3 pensil) They just seem to keep getting better, I would guesstimate at 700 hours now.
FR rocks!
finally got around to finishing and snapping some pictures of our A7.3/dual SDX7 "FAST" - biamped with passive line level XO
Chris, Dave, Co.,
I was reading the Troels Gravesen bit on wide baffles and thought of this speaker. Compared to your slimmer baffle speakers, have you heard any of the differences that TG talks about? aside from the lower baffle step.
TG writes: "The wide curved baffle has a benign way of projecting the sound waves into the room and I'm beginning to think that if you have to choose between reflection and diffraction, then reflection is the way to go."
So far the only observation I'd make about these is the need for a very large room, or at least one not impeded by furniture as can be seen in the photo - the couch to the side is pushed back as far as possible, and the unfortunate glass topped coffee table has not yet been determined as superfluous by SWBO - or more accurately WPFIA (who paid for it all)
I think they sounded much better at Dave's place where there's less intervening obstacles, than my own
I think they sounded much better at Dave's place where there's less intervening obstacles, than my own
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The A7 FAST pictured is probably the best sounding speaker (in my room) that we have made. I don't lay that down to the shape -- althou it is a nice shape -- but to the entire execution and of the FASTs we have built the one that uses the best drivers. It disappears (ie low diffraction signature, and a very low resonance box), given that wide, but flat, baffle boxes we have built have had fairly high diffraction signatures (in comparison to narrow boxes)
We have 3 versions of the miniOnken, andonecan hear a decrease in diffraction signature as we move from CGR to rectangular to trapezoidal miniOnken.
For the FAST above there is a trapezodal miniOnken version, and doing a direct comparison would be needed to make any authoritive conclusions on the effect of the cabinet shapes.
On TG's comment about open baffles vrs boxes, i think that is a conclusion that comes from poorly designed/built boxes and to some extent the choice of MDF to build them out of.
dave
We have 3 versions of the miniOnken, andonecan hear a decrease in diffraction signature as we move from CGR to rectangular to trapezoidal miniOnken.
For the FAST above there is a trapezodal miniOnken version, and doing a direct comparison would be needed to make any authoritive conclusions on the effect of the cabinet shapes.
On TG's comment about open baffles vrs boxes, i think that is a conclusion that comes from poorly designed/built boxes and to some extent the choice of MDF to build them out of.
dave
Hi...I have no measuring equipment besides my ears ...can you do a sim using the 4 ohm version of the Dayton RS-180 to the Alpair 7.3 at the same crossover point...thanks
Alpair 7.3 with Dayton RS225P-8"
I know there are quite a few con-current threads dealing with the same question, so instead of opening another thread I might just bring this old thread back to life.
As some of you here (Dave, Chrisb particular) may have already known that I have a pair of FH mk3, while as nice as it is, I am not entirely satisfied with it due to the lack of punch, and I had asked for help in other thread. So after a long period of deliberation/consultation with the SWMBO, and seeing some interesting posts from members here with the same issue, I decided to build a new set of speakers based on the A7.3 and supported by the Dayton RS225P-8-8".
To be frank, I don't know anything about anything when it comes to speaker design and build. While quite handy with things around house but I am no woodworker for sure, cutting a few pieces of ply and glue them together is OK though.
Following schematic is OK as well and has been playing with winISD to get some idea.
Requirement: (SWMBO mandated rules)
- Aesthetically acceptable to her standard No frankenstein style, otherwise that south facing naughty corner out in the front porch will be my permanent resident (my son gets the opposite corner shielded from the southerly wind)
- Easy to build - no complex curve, bend, bracing etc, simple six walled box that is (my rule)
Background Info:
- Listening room (10m x 10m): Big open plan, typical aussie Mcmanson.
- Amps: P2P LM3886 Gainclone; Joe Rasmussen's Transconductance amp (that amp sounds fully sick with the Alpair 7.3); and Raspberry Pi based Pre-amp.
- I listen to wide range of music, I like Charpentier, Lully, I like Bach and crazy about Beethoven. I also like Big band, Swing Jazz and occasionally Guns N Roses and Meat Loaf.
Concept:
- Ikea salad bowls formed sphere (28cm dia) to house the A7.3. powered by Joe's Transconductance amp.
- Simple Sealed (350H x 280W x 300D 20.5L) or Vent box (624H x 280W x 300D 38L@39.67Hz) in 18mm Marine Ply to house the Dayton woofer, powered by Gainclone. Note: I pulled those figures from winISD. It doesn't say anything about driver and vent tube offset, possibly doesn't take woofer and vent occupied volume into account as well.
- Or all-in-one box design to house both drivers (don't know how to work out the dimension just yet)
- miniDSP as active x-over.
Like I said I don't know anything about anything, I have to work with lots of constraints and limited budget. So friends say something, nothing is off limit.
I know there are quite a few con-current threads dealing with the same question, so instead of opening another thread I might just bring this old thread back to life.
As some of you here (Dave, Chrisb particular) may have already known that I have a pair of FH mk3, while as nice as it is, I am not entirely satisfied with it due to the lack of punch, and I had asked for help in other thread. So after a long period of deliberation/consultation with the SWMBO, and seeing some interesting posts from members here with the same issue, I decided to build a new set of speakers based on the A7.3 and supported by the Dayton RS225P-8-8".
To be frank, I don't know anything about anything when it comes to speaker design and build. While quite handy with things around house but I am no woodworker for sure, cutting a few pieces of ply and glue them together is OK though.
Following schematic is OK as well and has been playing with winISD to get some idea.Requirement: (SWMBO mandated rules)
- Aesthetically acceptable to her standard
No frankenstein style, otherwise that south facing naughty corner out in the front porch will be my permanent resident (my son gets the opposite corner shielded from the southerly wind)- Easy to build - no complex curve, bend, bracing etc, simple six walled box that is (my rule
)Background Info:
- Listening room (10m x 10m): Big open plan, typical aussie Mcmanson.
- Amps: P2P LM3886 Gainclone; Joe Rasmussen's Transconductance amp (that amp sounds fully sick with the Alpair 7.3); and Raspberry Pi based Pre-amp.
- I listen to wide range of music, I like Charpentier, Lully, I like Bach and crazy about Beethoven. I also like Big band, Swing Jazz and occasionally Guns N Roses and Meat Loaf.
Concept:
- Ikea salad bowls formed sphere (28cm dia) to house the A7.3. powered by Joe's Transconductance amp.
- Simple Sealed (350H x 280W x 300D 20.5L) or Vent box (624H x 280W x 300D 38L@39.67Hz) in 18mm Marine Ply to house the Dayton woofer, powered by Gainclone. Note: I pulled those figures from winISD. It doesn't say anything about driver and vent tube offset, possibly doesn't take woofer and vent occupied volume into account as well.
- Or all-in-one box design to house both drivers (don't know how to work out the dimension just yet)
- miniDSP as active x-over.
Like I said I don't know anything about anything, I have to work with lots of constraints and limited budget. So friends say something, nothing is off limit.
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I'm keen to watch...
What about the HiVi M8n according to winISD Vol =36 l, F3 =45 Hz would fill out the bottom a bit better may be? There are a few 10" woofers that would reach lower, but you might have a bit of fun matching sensitivities.
Meatloaf ? really ? How do you go on Jacques Lousier doing Bach?
Try https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaobMVdhUC8 for a sample, classical musicians tend to hate it, but if you like swing jazz , who knows.
What about the HiVi M8n according to winISD Vol =36 l, F3 =45 Hz would fill out the bottom a bit better may be? There are a few 10" woofers that would reach lower, but you might have a bit of fun matching sensitivities.
Meatloaf ? really ? How do you go on Jacques Lousier doing Bach?
Try https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaobMVdhUC8 for a sample, classical musicians tend to hate it, but if you like swing jazz , who knows.
Not sure about that HiVi M8n driver. I picked the Dayton because there is a dealer nearby and the price is OK.
On 1st pass i'd put the PE driver in a 35 litre box tuned to 43 Hz with a high aspect ratio vent. F10 in the low 30s. If you use a pipe vent, tune a bit lower (39 Hz). The response doesn't go significantly lower, and it won't have the finesse or the level of tolerance to dynamic changes in T/S.
dave
dave
SDX7 availabale in Australia. Hi all. I see that Darcher are reporting as having 3 units in stock. - Darcher :: CSS SDX7 (EOL) I havent been in contact with them to confirm, but for those in the southern hemisphere wanting a couple for a FAST build maybe interested?
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