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#61 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
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Quote:
BTW, thanks for advising about making a mic and HOLMImpulse software. I have ordered the parts to make the mic. Instead of using Panasonic's WM-61A, I will use PUI's POM-3535L-3-R. Their specs are basically the same, but the freq. range is slightly different. Panasonic's is 20 to 16k Hz, while PUI's is 0 to 20k Hz. Most probably I will never have to measure less than 20 Hz, but for $0.50 extra why not have the capacity to measure under 20 Hz for window rattling subs. Last edited by guangui; 3rd March 2013 at 01:41 AM. |
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#62 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
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Here is one of the enclosures semi-finished, waiting on drivers, also need to fill some areas and paint.
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#63 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
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is there a vent on the bottom, not clear on the pics.
__________________
-- Good sound from Phoenix, AZ
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#64 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
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#65 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Virginia
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That's a really small vent for a Weems's pipe - the calculator you used actually had a round tube as outlet vent? What is the cross sectional area from the calculation? It should be at least as big as the driver Sd or else you will be getting a MLTL. My guess is that with all the felt you have and how small the vent is, the bass output will be really reduced. But it could be that you were going for lower freq extension hence the vent is small to get MLTL.
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#66 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
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Quote:
Yes, lower freq. ext. was part of the plan. |
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#67 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
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So, I finished them, they are not the prettiest, as my plan is to once finished, if they work to go ahead and make using plywood. They are not your typical sound, and I don't mean that in a bad way, though jury is still out regarding vocals. Imaging and soundstage are very good, larger than the uFonken with the same W3-881SI driver. The uFonken sounds more balanced, more rounded.
These design improves on imaging, soundstage, and more detailed highs. Bass was less than on the uFonken, and the sound was more forward. The uFonken was warmer. Toeing-in the speakers so they crossed in front of my seating position, instead of being directed at me, improved the sound, the speaker became more behaved. dB's increased dramatically, much louder enclosure than the uFonken. What really is baffling me is the vocals, they are very detailed, but "s" is more pronounced than with the uFonken, in part a good thing as it gave vocals more dynamism, but too much of a good thing is bad. Vocals also sound sort of "hollow". There is room for improvement, and I think that my mistake was as to not take the wool liner thickness in consideration, I needed to add about 3/4" to width and depth, not so much to height. I might be able to correct somewhat by adding more poly-fill. Overall, I'm happy with my very first design, and back to the drawing board to correct dimensions. Also, ordering foam core cutters for bevels, straight lines, and circles; it will make life much easier. Not going to change the drivers back to the uFonkens for the time being, I want them to break-in, as they only have about 2 hours playtime, to see if the sound gets better. |
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#68 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Kamloops, BC
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Take it with a grain of salt, because others seem to baby these drivers, but I found that my pair benefitted from "almost abusive" breakin-in. I pushed the driver excursion to the point just before they started to sound like crap and then I let them rock like that for a while. I purposely enhanced the bass in the signal to force the cones to comply or die. I was not "stupid" about it, but I was not gentle.
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#69 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
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Quote:
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#70 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Kamloops, BC
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Just short of sounding crappy is where you want them. Big cone movement but without any garble.
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