Nearfield PC Speakers, which driver?

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I'm not sure if the TB mentioned is one I've heard, but I 'll go out on a limb anyway and suggest that having "basically the same factory measured specs ... difference is very slight", might not tell the whole story of how either will actually sound in a real system.

And as a mechanical engineer (not electric, not sound, nor electronics engineer) I agree with you, equal is not always equal. But, there is only one way to find out, so will go ahead and order the TB's with the Bamboo Cone and Phase Plug, and in March will order the Fostex FF85WK to compare. The loser will either end up on EBay or on another project.
 
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I have the same'ish out of stock (FF85WK) issue. Living in New Zealand $freight is a major issue, so I'm trying to buy all of the bits from PE. But they don't do Fostex. I do like the "look" of Dayton Audio parts like binding posts/speakers etc. Dave, I have your uFonkenSET plans, and was wondering if anyone could suggest another FR to substitute? Or should I just not tell my significant other:eek:, & pay for 2 lots of freight when the 85's become available.

Get them from OZ, about AUD 25 shipping www.speakercomponents.com.au/store/index.php/drivers/full-range-drivers.html It goes by weight so you may be able to get four FF85WK landed for the lowest shipping cost.

(bought the FE166En, FF125WK and the FF105WK through them)

edit: Have had other drivers too like Vifa, TB, Focal, Fane, Philips etc and I would prefer to wait for the Fostex to appear again. I love the sound from those drivers.
 
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I have some silver wire left from DIY speaker cables I made. Is it advisable to use in this project, or should I use copper and leave the silver for something else?


provided you could repurpose the silver, I'd be inclined to try both ways - waiting of course for the silver to break-in :rolleyes:

I've personally found the sonic benefits of solid silver most notable at low line levels, ( phono state, pre-amp signal wiring etc)
 
Thanks AmadeusMozart, in all my travels around the ether, I had never seen Speaker Components. Unfortunately, when I tried to order them it/they couldn't quote on the freight for whatever reason? (ie couldn't proceed to Checkout). I'll try again later.
P.S. anyone,which button do you push to include a quote?
 
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Thanks AmadeusMozart, in all my travels around the ether, I had never seen Speaker Components. Unfortunately, when I tried to order them it/they couldn't quote on the freight for whatever reason? (ie couldn't proceed to Checkout). I'll try again later.
P.S. anyone,which button do you push to include a quote?

My fault - you have to shoot them an email to get a shipping quote and then pay using Paypal. eMail Anthony at webstore@speakercomponents.com.au

PS my favourite is the FF105WK for various reasons

regards
 
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Why use binding posts at all on desktop speakers? Just solder the ends of a wire to the speaker, lead it out thru a small hole in the cabinet (you can fill it with glue), and either put banana plugs or clips on the amplifier end.

Very simple, very easy! as Chef Tell used to say.
 
My fault - you have to shoot them an email to get a shipping quote and then pay using Paypal. eMail Anthony at webstore@speakercomponents.com.au

PS my favourite is the FF105WK for various reasons

regards

Thanks again, for the address, I've just fired off an e-mail.
I looked back at my post, and saw after your reply, the "quote button" could mean 2 ways. I assume you thought I was asking how to get the freight quote (which was good because you replied) but I meant how to use someone elses post:eek:.
As you can see, I've worked out how to do it. Yay:)!
 
Planet's recommended connectors are the ones I ordered from PE without knowing they were a favorite for the uFonken. When I saw them the other night, they just made sense. Direct wiring a uFonken sounds like common sense, but I will take these speakers to other places, and because wire runs are not always the same I rather have connectors.

For those of you interested in good quality binding posts for larger speaker projects, PE has a buyout sale of Mirage speakers cups with three different post options. One has isolated binding posts, the other has nickel plated posts, and the other has gold coated posts. I have had lots of experience with elector nickel plated (ENP) actuators, and they are very non-corrosive.
 
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Granted, the Vifa's are not in any way ideal for an Onken alignment, but hey, I have tried them in a lot of off-alignment enclosures and they are entertaining nonetheless. Most notable was how good they sound in the Fh3 inspired design.
The micro Onken design I have is well suited for near field desktop use as it is fairly compact. the dimensions are 5 in wide x 8 in deep x 10 in tall box (6.5 liters) with qnty 6 vents that are 0.1875 in wide x 1.5 in tall x 5.6 in long. The 3/16 in (0.1875 in) vent width is chosen for thickness of foam core. Note that this produces a box with a vent cross sectional area of only about 33% of the driver Sd vs typical 90% Sd used in Onken design. Had to do that to get a reasonable length for the ports. The calculated f3 is 55 Hz - as good as what I get with a 30 in long MLTL using this driver. What do you think? Worth trying?

Planet10,
When you designed the uFonken, were you able to follow the Onken design guideline of trying to maintain vent csa of 90% of Sd? Or is that not really necessary? I am just unable to get anything like that when using the Onken calculator even with FF85WK. Anyhow let me know if my TC9FD Onken design seems reasonable.
Thanks
X

mh-audio.nl - Home
 
They're not Onkens. They just look like them. In reality, the alignment is heading in almost the reverse direction to the traditional BR / Jensen Ultraflex / Onken where the object is to use the massive vent system to provide maximum efficiency at Fb. Dave is using the friction of high aspect ratio vents to provide a near-aperiodic alignment.
 
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They're not Onkens. They just look like them. In reality, the alignment is heading in almost the reverse direction to the traditional BR / Jensen Ultraflex / Onken where the object is to use the massive vent system to provide maximum efficiency at Fb. Dave is using the friction of high aspect ratio vents to provide a near-aperiodic alignment.

I sort of guessed this was what was going on as I get similar results when plugging same volume and vent dimensions into WinISD. Does the high aspect ratio vent provide a smoother response into the upper-bass and midrange? I guess this could be modeled in MJK to see closer approximation of response vs what is shown in WinISD.
 
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