Nearfield PC Speakers, which driver? - Page 6 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Full Range

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 15th February 2013, 05:15 PM   #51
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
Quote:
Originally Posted by guangui View Post
Can the uFonken be made with 1/4" wood? The walls will be dampened with rubberized undercoating, also with 1/2" wool felt, as to keep resonance to the very minimum.

the thinnest we've ever used is 1/2" ply or solid - if well braced (I'd avoid the undercoating) 1/4" could be OK - there are tons of commercial enclosures in molded plastic composites that are thinner than that, and seem to work just fine

the only downside I could see is there isn't much core for the driver mounting screws
__________________
now on sabbatical
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th February 2013, 05:49 PM   #52
guangui is offline guangui  Puerto Rico
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
the thinnest we've ever used is 1/2" ply or solid - if well braced (I'd avoid the undercoating) 1/4" could be OK - there are tons of commercial enclosures in molded plastic composites that are thinner than that, and seem to work just fine

the only downside I could see is there isn't much core for the driver mounting screws
Bolts with nuts. They can be glued with epoxy to the wood, there are ways to get around that.
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th February 2013, 06:02 PM   #53
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by guangui View Post
Can the uFonken be made with 1/4" wood? The walls will be dampened with rubberized undercoating
You can try it... 1/4" likely isn't thick enuff, the rubber stuff will make things worse.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th February 2013, 06:10 PM   #54
guangui is offline guangui  Puerto Rico
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
You can try it... 1/4" likely isn't thick enuff, the rubber stuff will make things worse.

dave
You saved me of using undercoating...I bought it because I needed it for something else in the house, and noticed that the label said "deadens sound". Made sense to me to use it to line a speaker cabinet.
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th February 2013, 07:05 PM   #55
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
Quote:
Originally Posted by guangui View Post
Bolts with nuts. They can be glued with epoxy to the wood, there are ways to get around that.

I've seen epoxy both shear off from the wood, and contaminate the threads of machine screws - either make for "very interesting times"

Unless using dense plastic or aluminum plate, both of which can be tapped for machine threads, I'd be far more inclined to use 1/2" material for the driver panel at least.
__________________
now on sabbatical
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th February 2013, 08:07 PM   #56
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
diyAudio Member
 
xrk971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Virginia
Glue a thicker block of wood where screws go, I do this all the time to mount drivers to foam core speakers. Use bracing to avoid large spans of thinner wood - that is only other thing to watch for when using thin materials.
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th February 2013, 09:48 PM   #57
guangui is offline guangui  Puerto Rico
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by xrk971 View Post
Glue a thicker block of wood where screws go, I do this all the time to mount drivers to foam core speakers. Use bracing to avoid large spans of thinner wood - that is only other thing to watch for when using thin materials.
That was one of my plans, using wood blocks or FRP blocks. The bracing of the uFonken is plenty for 1/4" wood. Remember these speakers are small, so loads are not much of a concern.

Last edited by guangui; 15th February 2013 at 09:51 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th February 2013, 10:55 PM   #58
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Quote:
Originally Posted by guangui View Post
Can the uFonken be made with 1/4" wood? The walls will be dampened with rubberized undercoating, also with 1/2" wool felt, as to keep resonance to the very minimum.
From the posts that follow it sounds () like you have an amount of 1/4", so if you REEAALLLY want to use it, why don't you double it up. ie; 2 sandwiched together with PVA glue ending up with 1/2".
Although, personally I'd still go with the experts use of 1 piece 1/2" thick.
But then if you sandwiched 3 pieces together..........
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th February 2013, 11:05 PM   #59
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by guangui View Post
The bracing of the uFonken is plenty for 1/4" wood.
Probably not. It is just sufficient for quality 12mm ply. More would be nice on some of our 12mm solid builds.

As suggested, double it up.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 15th February 2013, 11:31 PM   #60
guangui is offline guangui  Puerto Rico
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by hybridtech View Post
From the posts that follow it sounds () like you have an amount of 1/4", so if you REEAALLLY want to use it, why don't you double it up. ie; 2 sandwiched together with PVA glue ending up with 1/2".
Although, personally I'd still go with the experts use of 1 piece 1/2" thick.
But then if you sandwiched 3 pieces together..........
Quote:
Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
Probably not. It is just sufficient for quality 12mm ply. More would be nice on some of our 12mm solid builds.

As suggested, double it up.

dave
Yes, I have some 1/4" panels that were left from a house renovation project. I can double up, but will try not doubling up first. I am also building a pair in 12 mm Baboon Plywood, as I have two 12 mm x 2' x 4' panels. I am also finishing a mock-up (but functional) pair in 3/16" Foam Core panels that I had. Just did a math of the loads involved in using 1/4", and the spans are not that long or wide as to justify doubling up, there are no loads, except for the front baffle. Anyways, I will play with different thickness' and see what works and what doesn't. I can tell you a lot about metals and exotic metal alloys, but not much about wood.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Best Nearfield DIY speaker for PC listening thisisvv Multi-Way 73 25th September 2012 05:09 PM
Help ! Fullrange speakers for Nearfield listening jtjy Full Range 7 4th October 2010 11:18 PM
Suggestions for high efficiency nearfield speakers mrevie Multi-Way 8 29th August 2009 05:20 AM
best diy nearfield speakers for <300 shipped thadman Multi-Way 0 25th September 2006 11:28 PM
Need Help Getting Started - Nearfield Speakers alex douglass Multi-Way 20 4th October 2001 03:56 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 09:42 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2