I know nothing about this, but noted the FF85WK is "only" 0.35mm and similar sizes in Dayton 4's & 5's.
I have these same speakers here as a PC speakers, and for my needs, it is very good.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/228561-bookshelf-build-tb-w3-881si-nice.html
gychang
After trying just about every variation of "standard" binding posts (but not Speakons or other special types) over the past dozen or so years, we've settled on these for a variety of reasons.
We like to use banana plugs, specifically the Pomona style molded duals, which have 3/4" spacing - something you'll find on many (but not all) of the larger sized recessed cups and bi-amp terminals. The little cups we've found that are very affordable happen to use about as small a through hole (2") that will still accommodate this spacing for 5-way binding posts - and even then they are a pain in the a$$ if you want to use large gauge cabling and Cardas grade spades.
But this is another of those areas that can devolve into useless debate - use whatever type of terminals you like, provided you can access the internal wiring easily. The cups or simple surface mounted dual posts allow for that.
Yep, that happens a lot...
Personally, I find those Mirage connectors really big, but the price and finishes might be a draw for some people. I like to keep it simple (KISS).
No they can't. I'd venture to guess they have about 2mm of travel but I have made them "click" even with a 300hz 4th order high pass. But the SPL was quite high. Depends on the use. If listening at very low SPL on a desk they'd be fine full range. I had them in a little ported box and at moderate SPL they were farting with any kick drum or bass guitar.
But as said, not sure the FF85 can move any more air than them. I don't doubt the FF85 is more "refined" though.
The miniOnkens (as Scott said) are not "officially" Onkens. They only borrow the self bracing side-wall/vent scheme, and the high aspect ratio vents.
dave
1/ i like the hole cut-out for the cup as small as possible (needed given the criteria that the posts not stick out)
2/ they are ugly
3/ the posts are not very good (at least the ones i have recycled). Often a cheaper builf post will perform better because it has less metal. (consider the Radio Shack male RCAs. The best they sell are the cheapest.
4/ they have non-standard spacing.
dave
Ohhhh...probably why they got rid of them and sold their inventory at rotten fish price to PE.
Your point #2 is highly subjective, others may differ. IMO, just average looking, sort of an industrial look.
the thinnest we've ever used is 1/2" ply or solid - if well braced (I'd avoid the undercoating) 1/4" could be OK - there are tons of commercial enclosures in molded plastic composites that are thinner than that, and seem to work just fine
the only downside I could see is there isn't much core for the driver mounting screws
Bolts with nuts. They can be glued with epoxy to the wood, there are ways to get around that.
You can try it... 1/4" likely isn't thick enuff, the rubber stuff will make things worse.
dave
You saved me of using undercoating...I bought it because I needed it for something else in the house, and noticed that the label said "deadens sound". Made sense to me to use it to line a speaker cabinet.
I've seen epoxy both shear off from the wood, and contaminate the threads of machine screws - either make for "very interesting times"
Unless using dense plastic or aluminum plate, both of which can be tapped for machine threads, I'd be far more inclined to use 1/2" material for the driver panel at least.
That was one of my plans, using wood blocks or FRP blocks. The bracing of the uFonken is plenty for 1/4" wood. Remember these speakers are small, so loads are not much of a concern.
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From the posts that follow it sounds
D) like you have an amount of 1/4", so if you REEAALLLY want to use it, why don't you double it up. ie; 2 sandwiched together with PVA glue ending up with 1/2".Although, personally I'd still go with the experts use of 1 piece 1/2" thick.
But then if you sandwiched 3 pieces together.........
.
Probably not. It is just sufficient for quality 12mm ply. More would be nice on some of our 12mm solid builds.
As suggested, double it up.
dave
From the posts that follow it sounds
Although, personally I'd still go with the experts use of 1 piece 1/2" thick.
But then if you sandwiched 3 pieces together.........
Yes, I have some 1/4" panels that were left from a house renovation project. I can double up, but will try not doubling up first. I am also building a pair in 12 mm Baboon Plywood, as I have two 12 mm x 2' x 4' panels. I am also finishing a mock-up (but functional) pair in 3/16" Foam Core panels that I had. Just did a math of the loads involved in using 1/4", and the spans are not that long or wide as to justify doubling up, there are no loads, except for the front baffle. Anyways, I will play with different thickness' and see what works and what doesn't. I can tell you a lot about metals and exotic metal alloys, but not much about wood.
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