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Old 2nd February 2013, 10:44 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrk971 View Post
ou like having some resistance in your wires for audio quality?
The extra resistance is immaterial once you factor in the voice coil resistance. What is important is pure, skinny & solid.

dave
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Old 2nd February 2013, 10:48 PM   #12
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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So you take the wires out of the cat5 sheath and untwist them then? As they are unshielded twisted pair. Why is skinny important? I know they use good quality copper in those.
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Old 2nd February 2013, 11:07 PM   #13
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We pull a pair out and use that. Sometimes we'll pull that apart and either makea spaced flat cable or a spiral cable.

Ideally all of the audio signal is in the field around the wire, and not in the metal.

dave
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Old 3rd February 2013, 02:46 AM   #14
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So couple of tips, never have the pieces cut at Lowes. I have been working on getting it square all day. The good news is I am succeeding. The speakers will be 36 3/4" tall, so I list about 1/4" of height in the process.

Final conclusion, I need all of the tools.
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Old 3rd February 2013, 03:13 AM   #15
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What does everyone else do for the main cuts? A job site saw can really do cross-cuts well... We have tried a circular saw with a Kreg Rip-Cut tool, it is OK at best.
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Old 3rd February 2013, 06:37 AM   #16
AlanL is offline AlanL  United States
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I use a table saw with a sled. But here's a young man who knows how to get good cuts with a circular saw. RIP GUIDE FOR A SKILL SAW - YouTube

Don't forget that only some of the pieces need to be exact, the overlapping pieces can be left oversize and trimmed with the router.

Never assume that factory edges are really straight. If you want to check it at the store, go use one of their big levels.

Keep it square, measure the diagonals.

Most of all... Have Fun. (and be careful of those fingers)
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Old 3rd February 2013, 12:06 PM   #17
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The larger circular saw was much much better at getting straight cuts compared to a Rockwell VersaCut I had laying around.

I think a custom jig made out of plywood and hardboard is a good alternative to purchasing a sub-par jobsite table saw. A table saw is only as square as the piece that is touching the fence. In order for a table saw to be accurate, you would need a jointer as well. At least the faces of the plywood are flat.
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Old 3rd February 2013, 12:31 PM   #18
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Updated the Materials post with some better items. Will add some more options for cables and binding posts as well. I want this to be as complete as possible.

Lots of good info about the Mark Audio A12P drivers that I didn't know when I got started.
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Old 3rd February 2013, 01:20 PM   #19
mp9 is offline mp9  United States
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ITSTV Makita SP6000K Plunge Cut Circular Saw - YouTube

I got one of the Makita track saw in addition to already having a circular saw metal jig with bearings that rides along a 2"x2" L angle track, a job-site tabs saw, and a sliding compound mitre saw.

My A12P build got postponed and i've yet to use the Makita track saw. The older jig is good at cutting perfectly straight but the circular saw i attached to it isn't so good at getting a perfect right angle cut. I'm hoping the smaller diameter blade of the track saw will be better setup for right angles. My Hitachi contractors table saw isn't a bad one but i still have trouble getting a perfect 90 angle cut. The 10" Dewalt sliding compound mitre saw does perfect cross cuts up to ~12" across.

If happen to be located near Philly, i may be able to help you out.
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Old 3rd February 2013, 01:36 PM   #20
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That track saw does look like it would fit the bill. Maybe returning the DeWalt and Rip-Cut and upgrading to the track saw for the next project. Thanks for the tip!

I am located in NC, thank you very much for the offer though!
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