This has probably been answered before, but I couldn't find an answer by searching. I am rebuilding speakers I built in 1979 as the woofers needed to be refoamed and I replaced the caps on the xover. It is a sealed 3 way design and in remounting the woofers, I am wondering what has transpired since I built them in sealing the woofers to the cabinet. I used "wet" silicon caulking when first attaching, but the woofers were hard to remove as they stuck to the MDF and pulled some of the wood away from the cabinets when removed. I thought this would be the best seal especially where the bolts passed through. Is there a better way to get a good seal currently?
Thank you.
Thank you.
I use this from Michaels craft stores - works great.
Creatology? Foam Sheets
You can get it with adhesive backing too.
Sticky Back Foam Sheets
Creatology? Foam Sheets
You can get it with adhesive backing too.
Sticky Back Foam Sheets
Buy a sheet of what's often known as EVA Rubber.
Spongy but firm open cell neoprene foam, the kind used for kid's toys, slippers, bicycle/fishing rod handles/mousepads/1000 other uses.
Available everywhere, including Art shops, "all rubber products" shops and such.
Glue it with contact cement.
Moretite "window caulking rope" or similar other branded stuff... get fresh stock, make sure it is a bit warm, and roll it a bit thinner than the 3/16" or so it comes in, push to flatten on the box or back of the speaker rim... it squishes and seals, never hardens fully. Comes in grey and brown typically.
Works excellently... lasts forever. Good on windows too...
Works excellently... lasts forever. Good on windows too...
This says minimum compression and it's 3/16", so I don't know if that would be too thick for you...
3 8"w x 3 16"T 10'L Closed Cell Neoprene Weather Stripping | eBay
3 8"w x 3 16"T 10'L Closed Cell Neoprene Weather Stripping | eBay
Rope caulk is good and as bear says warm it up. You might also want to wipe the flange with oil before mounting. It'll act as a release agent.
Same goes for butyl glazing tape.
Sorry for laughing.
I have used 1/4" foam insulation strips with good results. They flatten out and fill in any irregularities in the baffle. Also I have used TACKY Craft Glue available in the craft departments of Wal Mart. It dries almost clear and is easy to peel off from the metal speaker frame if you have to remove them. I made a serious error in using liquid nails once
to mount a 12 " woofer. 20 Years later when I went to remove it had to use a hammer a chisel to get it out, this action destroyed the cabinet.
to mount a 12 " woofer. 20 Years later when I went to remove it had to use a hammer a chisel to get it out, this action destroyed the cabinet.
I prefer this stuff:
Glue pads - UHU patafix, UHU patafix homedeco, UHU patafix PROPower, UHU fix
Similar adhesive is also used by car installations for reducing vibration and fixing cable, etc. I can't recall the name, but it is available as parallel strips on paper drums.
Glue pads - UHU patafix, UHU patafix homedeco, UHU patafix PROPower, UHU fix
Similar adhesive is also used by car installations for reducing vibration and fixing cable, etc. I can't recall the name, but it is available as parallel strips on paper drums.
Sorry to hear about your mistake with liquid nails. They call it 'nails' for a good reason
That stuff is very tough, I used to glue quarters to sidewalks with it as a gag. Those coins are still there today.That caulking would have been fine if yo would have let it cure for 12 hours or so before installing the drivers.
Put a sheet of thin kitchen food plastic wrap over silicone caulk and lay driver over it with gentle pressure to force caulk to flatten and conform. Let it cure without bolts/screws. Remove plastic once dry. Might help to coat plastic with thin coat of oil or mold release compound prior. Then you have perfect fit silicone gasket.
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