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Old 1st February 2013, 08:29 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bear View Post
"window caulking rope"
Rope caulk is good and as bear says warm it up. You might also want to wipe the flange with oil before mounting. It'll act as a release agent.
Quote:
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Do not do as I once did and use bitumen tape.
Same goes for butyl glazing tape.
Sorry for laughing.
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Old 2nd February 2013, 01:10 PM   #12
KLBIrd is offline KLBIrd  United States
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I have used 1/4" foam insulation strips with good results. They flatten out and fill in any irregularities in the baffle. Also I have used TACKY Craft Glue available in the craft departments of Wal Mart. It dries almost clear and is easy to peel off from the metal speaker frame if you have to remove them. I made a serious error in using liquid nails once
to mount a 12 " woofer. 20 Years later when I went to remove it had to use a hammer a chisel to get it out, this action destroyed the cabinet.
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Old 2nd February 2013, 01:26 PM   #13
tinitus is offline tinitus  Europe
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I use felt, maybe because I have it
or else it might be some other stuff
a bit tricky to cut, but it works fine
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Old 2nd February 2013, 01:40 PM   #14
oshifis is offline oshifis  Hungary
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I prefer this stuff:

Glue pads - UHU patafix, UHU patafix homedeco, UHU patafix PROPower, UHU fix

Similar adhesive is also used by car installations for reducing vibration and fixing cable, etc. I can't recall the name, but it is available as parallel strips on paper drums.
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Old 3rd February 2013, 04:22 PM   #15
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Wow, Thanks for all the great suggestions. I didn't want to go to silicon caulking again as it was very difficult to get the speakers out. As soon as I receive the new caps for the xover, I'll get this system back in service.
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Old 3rd February 2013, 04:28 PM   #16
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLBIrd View Post
I have used 1/4" foam insulation strips with good results. They flatten out and fill in any irregularities in the baffle. Also I have used TACKY Craft Glue available in the craft departments of Wal Mart. It dries almost clear and is easy to peel off from the metal speaker frame if you have to remove them. I made a serious error in using liquid nails once
to mount a 12 " woofer. 20 Years later when I went to remove it had to use a hammer a chisel to get it out, this action destroyed the cabinet.
Sorry to hear about your mistake with liquid nails. They call it 'nails' for a good reason That stuff is very tough, I used to glue quarters to sidewalks with it as a gag. Those coins are still there today.
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Old 4th February 2013, 01:07 PM   #17
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That caulking would have been fine if yo would have let it cure for 12 hours or so before installing the drivers.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Spinosaurus View Post
Wow, Thanks for all the great suggestions. I didn't want to go to silicon caulking again as it was very difficult to get the speakers out. As soon as I receive the new caps for the xover, I'll get this system back in service.
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Old 5th February 2013, 03:56 AM   #18
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and how do you get it thin and flat fastbike1? I don't have a method.
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Old 5th February 2013, 09:07 AM   #19
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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Put a sheet of thin kitchen food plastic wrap over silicone caulk and lay driver over it with gentle pressure to force caulk to flatten and conform. Let it cure without bolts/screws. Remove plastic once dry. Might help to coat plastic with thin coat of oil or mold release compound prior. Then you have perfect fit silicone gasket.
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Old 6th February 2013, 01:17 PM   #20
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You can also spread the caulk with your finger, a knife, putty knife, spoon, . . . do I need to go on?
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