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#91 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
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#92 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Virginia
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Cervelorider was the one who recommended the 3122. He said he has had 6 other tube amps and this chip sounds as good as any of them. I think he upgrades the input caps from the stock ones offered in the kit though. One thing that tube amps do differently is that they react differently to the dynamic changes in impedance of the driver. If someone makes a chip that can mimic this behavior, I don't see why class D can't sound the same as tubes.
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#93 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
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#94 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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I don't know about 'dirty window' and 'grain', but you should hear some of the valve amps the guys around here crank out. Two in particular, a 300b PP & 211 SET, will always stand out in my mind. Neither of those terms would get a look in, particularly with the former, which was cleaner than a nunnery with a sideline in carbolic soap. Actually, it was a little too much so for some of the guys at the meet where I heard it; bordering on too sharp for their tastes. I liked it. Which I grind my teeth saying because a/ I don't like the 300b and b/ I don't much care for valve amps, as a rule.
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#95 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Texas
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I built my brother Ian Thompson-Bell's Improved Headphone amplifier (a SRPP tube amplifier) and it definitely improved the audio quality of his headphones when compared with his X-FI sound card. I would go as far as to say that it made his $150 headphones sound like a $600 model. For the most part, improvement has been most apparent in the bass region. Ian's headphone amplifier is a marvelous example of quality design. My theory is that the computer sound card was incapable of driving his HT-50's sufficiently.
Clearly, sufficient power is required to adequately drive speakers. It would take take much more to convince me that a tube amplifier is superior to a class A SS though. My recommendation is to first get an amplifier with enough power, then find the class of amplifier, then if you choose to go class A, pick between tube amplification and solid state amplification. You can hardly tell that my brother is using a tube amplifier because his uses a negative feedback loop to reduce distortion.
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2X Com-tech 400, Improved Headphone Amplifier |
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#96 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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This "tube vs SS" debate has been going on for longer than some forum members have been around, and I'd be surprised if there's ever consensus on the if / how / why of which is (perceived as ) "better"
To my thinking, a "perfectly acceptable" amp (no such thing as "perfect" or "best"), is one that mostly gets out of its own way - in other words the fewest sins of omission in its efforts to present a facsimile of a musical event - particularly when considering it'll be used in conjunction with transducers likely several orders of magnitude more "flawed" . I've heard systems with combinations of tube, all solid state, and hybrids that do an admirable job of that. Some were quite affordable, others - if you need to ask ... ![]() One thing about which there's probably no argument is that an efficient digital amp can be very compact and run lean, green and cool - for some applications these can be significant factors.
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you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi Last edited by chrisb; 4th February 2013 at 08:55 PM. |
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#97 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
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#98 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Virginia
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![]() Here is spec sheet for chip: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/slos708b/slos708b.pdf Eval board: TPA3118D2 Evaluation Module - TPA3118D2EVM - TI Tool Folder Last edited by xrk971; 13th February 2013 at 09:45 AM. |
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#99 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Kamloops, BC
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I recently discovered how tweakable the Lepai 2020 amps are. Bypassed the tone controls and opamp, upgraded the input coupling caps. Huge improvement in sound. My PCB is the 2020B (almost all through-hole) which makes things easy(ier).
Have not tried it on my dual EL70 microTowers yet, but the difference is quite noticeable on my nanoTowers. Will probably upgrade the output inductors and main power cap at some point. In tube land, I am planning a few tweaks to the Shuguang I-25. Will be installing a supplementary power transformer to dedicate to the pre-amp tubes, which will give me enough juice to run some 12BH7s and give my main transformer some relief (runs pretty hot). Have ordered some Russian POI caps to replace the generic coupling caps. Considering putting a choke in it, as well. So much fun! Last edited by cogitech; 13th February 2013 at 03:42 PM. |
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#100 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Kamloops, BC
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I ordered some Russian POI caps, but I've not received them after almost 7 weeks, so I got fed up and ordered some Sprague 716P Orange drops.
They arrived today and I just finished installing them. Holy makerel they are huge! I have heard I need to give them about 40 hours to burn in, however the amp sounds fantastic to me already. I do think the change is subtle, but in a very important way. I can't put my finger on it, but it does sound like it is more cohesive or something; more "solid" or "grounded" if that makes any sense. |
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