Noresco/Isophon SR-2

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I got these monkey coffins with the intent to experiment with the boxes, can't build much with the winter full-on, -25°C today. I knew they'd have some Isophon drivers - didn't expect the PH2132E coaxial though!

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


I seem to have the 4ohm version, both seem to work as well, though that cap might be somewhat tired. Very good condition overall.

I'll get to measuring the parameters, though I expect OB kind of Qts. Vas is a bit of a pain to get. Anyone measured these before, Planet10?

IG
 
Maybe. I've had 4 pair thru here, plus i have a 4 & an 8ohm single (from what was nomially a pair of Noresco).

Quite a special driver, not all that neutral but vry musical.

dave

There is a large and broad peak at 7kHz, very apparent when right on-axis, but it smooths down when moving just a bit. Wonder if it's the tweeter's natural behavior or interatcion with the fullrange/midbass. This is preceded by a dip at 5kHz, so I'm suspecting the latter, at least in parts. Maybe reversing the phase could make it a bit better. I'll have to measure drivers individually. The crossover cap is a 5µF, which suggests ~8kHz nominally for the 4ohm tweeter. I also have the apparently common busted rivets on the terminal strips. The tweeter's strip is actually screwed-down, a much better choice. Past Ebay prices for these might also preclude me from keeping them! ;)

IG
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
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I also have the apparently common busted rivets on the terminal strips. The tweeter's strip is actually screwed-down, a much better choice.

Very common. The screw is likely from someone fixing the issue. I usually use epoxy

Past Ebay prices for these might also preclude me from keeping them! ;)

One of the reasons a cheer always went up when i found a pair of these when i was doing vintage drivers on eBay. Most i ever pais was $60/pr (and that same day i got another pair for $30)... Most i got was $320/pr and that from a jukebox collector in Germany who needed a single to restore one of his collection.

dave
 
Very common. The screw is likely from someone fixing the issue. I usually use epoxy

The screw on the tweeter terminal "strip" seems original - it's the same golden slotted screw head as you find holding its mounting brackets.

One of the reasons a cheer always went up when i found a pair of these when i was doing vintage drivers on eBay. Most i ever pais was $60/pr (and that same day i got another pair for $30)... Most i got was $320/pr and that from a jukebox collector in Germany who needed a single to restore one of his collection.
dave

That's about the max I've seen on completed listing too - BIN to boot. Lowest BIN was ~200$.

IG
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
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Like this?

These are the older, most desirable, shallow basket aperiodic tweeters,

dave
 

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Like this?

These are the older, most desirable, shallow basket aperiodic tweeters,

dave

That same screw yes, but a simpler, 2-terminal strip, not aperiodic AFAIK. Maybe I'll remove one tweeter to measure the fullrange/midbass on its own, I'll snap a pic.

They do have their own sound. I jammed the cabinet's vent with a bunch of poly-fill to reduce the port's output, going towards ~aperiodic for this high-Q driver. Next will be listening with the back off. I'm only listening to one speaker in mono - has a weird sense of depth at times on certain recordings. The cone tweeter's large and broad peak is very similar to what Troels Gravessen measured on the very similar Saba tweeter. Thought it is very bright-sounding on-axis, the sound itself is not too harsh, as bit of taming its amplitude would help for sure though.

IG
 
Hi guys,

This is just a perfect timing.. I have just acquired a pair of these but have not listened to them yet as im very confused where to connect the wirings. Can someone please show how to connect the cables. I just dont understand how the mid and tweeters are connected with the 5uf capacitor. Pls explain...

Attached are the pics

Thanks guys
 

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hi guys,

I was able to identify correct polarity for the mids and i suppose the terminal with the red wire on the tweeter is the positive side. Guys pls verify if im right with the tweeter polarity.

But i still could not understand how everything is wired with the 5uf cap.
It looks like that the mids are in series with the 5uf cap then to tweeter but what confuses me if they are in series is that the cap connects to the negative of the tweeter then the positive of the tweeter connects back to the positive of the mids.

can someone pls chime in... Very confused here
 
Hi guys,

Im now enjoying these amazing speakers. I replaced the 5uf with 4.7uf k75 cap. Listening to without a baffle or box and the bass is great. It is very musical as what dave has said. I have also crossed it with a helper open baffle woofer at around 300hz with 1st order crossover and they seem to be blending well. these drivers are fantastic.

I will post pics as soon as i build a test baffle for them.

I still dont understand why the crossover is wired like it is. pls can someone explain..
 
If memory serves Noresco built their mediocre products in Burnaby.. until they folded.
Neither outstanding Nor memorable by any stretch of the imagination.. even 'back then'.

I've so far been exposed to these here speakers with the Isophon coax, as well as the smaller NEC-511, with Philips AD7060 6" fullrange - generally crummy construction IMO. Good thing for the DIY-folk they used fun drivers though!

IG
 
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