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Old 10th February 2013, 06:22 PM   #11
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default nice design...

... they certainly look the part. Cosmetically reminds me of the Meadowlark loudspeakers. Obviously different bass loading, but a TL none the less. Click here to have a look at the Kestrel 2s. And here to look at the Shearwaters. I'm not sure whatever happened to Meadowlark.
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Old 10th February 2013, 06:40 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Ben_Tech View Post
My local supplier had 5x5 foot pieces of quality 3/4" 13 layer Baltic Birch ply.
Before you do an actual cut sheet measure the real thickness of your material. 5x5 sheets come in a nominal 18mm (+/- a couple tenths).If you just assume it is 3/4" you will be sad when you start putting it together.

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Old 10th February 2013, 08:39 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nanook View Post
... they certainly look the part. Cosmetically reminds me of the Meadowlark loudspeakers. Obviously different bass loading, but a TL none the less. Click here to have a look at the Kestrel 2s. And here to look at the Shearwaters. I'm not sure whatever happened to Meadowlark.
Thank you, Stew. Yes, they do look similar to the Kestrel 2 now that you showed me a picture. I was only vaguely aware of Meadowlark. Good find.
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Old 10th February 2013, 08:46 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
Before you do an actual cut sheet measure the real thickness of your material. 5x5 sheets come in a nominal 18mm (+/- a couple tenths).If you just assume it is 3/4" you will be sad when you start putting it together.

dave
Thanks Dave! Good tip. Yes, I will get out the digital caliper and make sure I know the exact thickness of the material before I start marking on the actual wood.

Speaking of which, I took a quick snapshot of the Home Depot ply vs. the more expensive stuff I bought yesterday from the pro cabinetmaker supply.

Home Depot on left, expensive stuff on the right. You will see there are 13 layers vs. only 11 and the plys are lot straighter too. There are two sheets of each pictured.

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by Ben_Tech; 10th February 2013 at 08:50 PM.
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Old 12th February 2013, 04:34 AM   #15
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Turns out Dave was right (surprise, surprise) and the material is just slightly over 18mm (.72 or .73 inches). I'll go ahead and err toward keeping the external dimensions the same and allow the internal volume to grow by that little bit. No problemo. Good to be aware of though!
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Old 25th February 2013, 05:55 AM   #16
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I decided to build the center channel first.

Starting the layout on ply:

Click the image to open in full size.

The cut pieces for the walls of the cabinet with some of the angles done:

Click the image to open in full size.

The last thing I did was to switch blades in my table saw to a dadoe blade. I used it to cut some rabbets into the side edges of the top and bottom panels so that the side panels fit into that slot on each corner. The dadoe blade I have is the adjustable wobbling type. Maybe not the best as I'm seeing some slop in terms of the rabbets being square and true. Next time I get back to this I'll try squaring up the rabbets a little bit with a long file and see if that's good enough. If not, I'll buy the right router bit with a bearing and cut new top and bottom pieces and go from there.
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Old 9th March 2013, 05:22 AM   #17
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A little progress finally.

Glued up the sides, top and bottom today:

Click the image to open in full size.

Hard to see in the pic, but the shot is showing the sloped side (roughly 6 degrees).

The bar clamps were plenty, the strap clamps were overkill.

The rabbet joints were quite a lot of work as the wobble blade did not produce perfect cuts. I tried cleaning them up with a flat file and a razor blade, but that took many hours to perfect one joint, so I decided to break out the router with a straight bit and just clamped a straight piece of wood across the workpiece and zipped out the high spots. Worked a treat. In fact, I'd be tempted to just use the router for any further rabbets and forgo the table saw.

Here's a pic of one of the finished joints -

Click the image to open in full size.

Next up - routing the driver cutout and slot vents in the front panel.
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Old 9th March 2013, 06:50 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nanook View Post
... they certainly look the part. Cosmetically reminds me of the Meadowlark loudspeakers. Obviously different bass loading, but a TL none the less. Click here to have a look at the Kestrel 2s. And here to look at the Shearwaters. I'm not sure whatever happened to Meadowlark.

I can tell you what happend to Meadowlark Audio. I heard they went over board on buying the cnc machines and all tracks of real wood. Just jumped the gun to quick and was not selling enough to pay the rent. So they have been gone for awhile now.I did heard the shearwater hot rods before they went under. Its a shame what a great little company gone to soon. I heard pat the designer is up in New York trying to start a new company? Who knows that was a few years ago? This is all the info I got from a dealer that use to carry Meadowlard Speakers. JM
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Old 11th March 2013, 08:42 PM   #19
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What do you guys think as far as grain direction on a finished center channel speaker? Do you think the grain should run top to bottom on the front (vertically), considering its horizontal arrangement, or side to side (horizontally)?

All of the grain will be vertical on the mains, of course.

I'll be using real wood veneer or woodgrain laminate, I have not decided yet. In either case, the grain will be prominent.
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Old 11th March 2013, 09:21 PM   #20
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Vertical.

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