The WIBAQ: TABAQ Design with Betsy K

[RonVinyl]

Originally Posted by xrk971

Or save your amplifier power and eq it out. Or do the bsc at line level before amp and use much smaller/cheaper inductors and non power resistors. Bsc's burn off power and add phase altering stuff to an otherwise pure full range driver and amp.

Interesting, line level would be very nice considering I want to power these with a SET amplifier. You may have just saved me a hundred bucks!

Thanks!

[RonVinyl]

I wonder if the Tang Band W8-1772 would work in this enclosure as well. Maybe Bjorn could run a sim for that. It would be nice to have an enclosure where the driver could be swapped in/out.

Thoughts on this?

[Dumbledog]

Well this enclosure, being quarter wave resonant, would maintain that tune of 35 hz regardless of driver parameters. So if the driver handles "extreme tuning" as I believe Bjorn called it, than it should work. Some drivers require dampening from the enclosure, something that this enclosure design with its large volume and high density stuffing offers little of.

[xrk971]

The MLTL generally likes moderate to high Qts parameter drivers, I think the 1772 is a low Qts high Bl driver designed more for BLH's. Easy enough to simulate and see though.

[RonVinyl]

Good point, and I do love the simplicity of this design. I do not want to move to a BLH.

[Dumbledog]

If you were to try the Tang Band W8-1808 it might work. It is very similar to the 1772 but with a higher Qts (along with some other parameters being different). I don't know if the TB drivers are really worth 4 times the price of the Betsy K though. For me, anyway, this is a build where I am trying to get the most out of a limited budget.

[RonVinyl]

Originally Posted by Dumbledog

If you were to try the Tang Band W8-1808 it might work. It is very similar to the 1772 but with a higher Qts (along with some other parameters being different). I don't know if the TB drivers are really worth 4 times the price of the Betsy K though. For me, anyway, this is a build where I am trying to get the most out of a limited budget.

Yeah I agree, all in for this build with the Betsy-K I am looking at $215 and change. Really can't beat that, same price as one TB driver.

[Bob Brines]

The W8-1772 works very well in a MLTL cabinet 40" tall and 75L net. The 1808 requires a 48" tall cabinet ant 100L net. I have avoided the 1808 because of the large cabinet it requires. Most users here choose to run the 1808 OB.

Bob

[RonVinyl]

Yea, I need something with a high sensitivity. I will be using a SET amp so the BetsyK or TB W81772 are my choices right now.

[fastbike1]

You don't want HD to do most of the cutting. I have yet to find a HD store where the blade on the panel saw wasn't dull. The nice veneer will be a mess. One might be better off spending a bit more and getting the 2x4 purebond sheets shipped to them. More veneer types available as well.

Originally Posted by glt

A cut plan for Home Depot:

1- Horizontal Rip 46 1/2" (or do 1/2" on one side first and then flip to do the othere side so you have nice edges)
2- 2x vertical rip 17 3/4" (or remove 1/2" first for nice edges)
3- 3x vertical rip 11"

Take the 11" boards to the cross saw

1- Cut first one to 15 3/8 (This is the front)
2- Second 11" board: cut a 16 1/4" piece (top)
3- From same board: cut a 17" piece (bottom)
4- From the same board: cut a 3 1/4" piece (port)

You still have about 25" or material left for braces, etc...

The best thing is to do all the same dimension cuts at the same time, so a little bit of planning is required.

(Am I reading the dimensions correctly?)

(You will need to watch/supervise the person doing the cuts and measurements to make sure they are doing it right. Talk nicely to them and tell them this is for a critical project :-))