Kofi Annan in: "Kofi's Kirishima"
So, Kofi's still got some vacation time and is looking to start making a Kirishima today for his old Fostex 206E drivers. I know it's a big build, but my room is pretty big and could use the extra bass.
So, here's where you come in--- you have to stop me from screwing everything up. You'll need some information first, so here are the details:
Room size: 24' x 12'
Amp: 300b SE or Baby Huey EL84 P-P
I'm headed to Lowes to get some plywood as I can't get easy access to better plywood. Here's what I plan to use:
I'll need 4 pieces of the 48 x 96 ply since I plan to make the full deflectors. I realize there may be better ply out there but Lowe's will make some of the cuts for me, which I will need as I don't have a huge table saw and will be working alone.
Here are some questions:
1. I plan to butt joint the pieces-- I'm thinking about using the Kreg Jig to make some easy pocket holes, which I will plug to keep the surface level. Any other easy jointing ideas?
2. Will the 206E work well in the Kirishimas or so I need to get the newer 206 eN to mate with them?
3. The plywood will likely be a little thinner than 3/4. It looks like the Kirisihima design accommodates thickness variances by ensuring the board thickness does not play into the geometry such that sides / top / bottom will still meet. Issue here is that I will need to fudge a bit on the placement of the interior pieces to ensure I don't inherit a bigger gap at the mouth than is advisable. Any imput here on how to fudge the interior pieces?
4. I'll be cutting down some of the larger piece with a circular saw. Any woodworking tips to ensure straight cuts / no tearout?
Answer all four questions correctly and you win an "I Helped Build Kofi's Kirishima!" T-shirt (cotton / poly blend; L or XL only).
Thanks in advance!
So long as the ply's void-free, it should do OK.
1/ Butt joints are as simple as it gets. I'm no woodworker, but FWIW, clamps. Lots of them.
2/ Yes. Incidentally, the most recent Fostex unit is the En. The eN label is what Dave used to employ for his modified E series units.
3/ Sort of. Start from the middle & work outward or you might find yourself with boards slightly shorter than intended & a bit of work to do with plastic-wood filler etc. A couple of mm extra termini area isn't something to get worried about.
4/ Take your time & make sure you've got a large level surface to work on is the message from this almost non-woodworker. If you can get someone to help, given the size of the pieces, so much the better. And invest in a quality blade if you haven't already. You'll probably blunt a cheap one half-way through cutting all the component parts.
Not asked, but: make very sure all the joints are square, and air-tight.
Just got back from Lowe's and was horrified by the quality of the plywood. Voids, rotted pieces, peeling veneer, etc. I'll have to wait until I can get to the local hardwood place next week sometime.
Thanks for the reply!
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