Mini-Boominator with Dayton DC200-8

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Another day, another project concept. This time, I'm thinking about a mini Boominator of sorts. Here is an album of the render I've done.


Basically 4x Dayton Audio DC200-8. Each side has a pair mounted so the magnets are as close as possible.

4x Pyle Pro PDBT18

Amplifier; Dayton DTA-100a

With 2 12V 5Ah batteries to make 24V, a solar charger/controller and an external 24V PSU.

I added the 2 ports, but I haven't factored ANYTHING. I make these posts just to see if there are any catastrophic design failures.

Thanks for looking, and I'd love any ideas and/or feedback.
 
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Do you plan on dividing the bass reflex chambers or is it in common? Nice 3d renderings, what cad software are you using and did you have to build the models for the drivers? There is a similar thread in the Tips forum, I suggested a 4 sided box in double bipole configuration with 6.5 in car audio coaxials and a Sure tk2050 4 x 100 w T amp. Couple of other folks posted their designs.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/construction-tips/201915-mini-150-ultimate-boom-box-lepai-2020-a.html

1. Do you plan on dividing the bass reflex chambers or is it in common?

I don't know what that means.. I'm very new to all this and a lot of the technical jargon really flies over my head.

2. Nice 3d renderings, what cad software are you using and did you have to build the models for the drivers?

Thank you! I use Solidworks 2012, and yes.. I make all the models myself. It's extremely fun IMO. I could provide all the models maybe sometime in the future.

3. I suggest a 4 sided box in double bipole configuration with 6.5 in car audio coaxials and a Sure tk2050 4 x 100 w T amp.

Not sure what double bipole is, but I have used that amp before.. It's just power hungry (24V.. So that's 2 12v SLAs..) The system was crazy heavy and insanely loud.. This is a more modest build.
 
Not sure what double bipole is, but I have used that amp before.. It's just power hungry (24V.. So that's 2 12v SLAs..) The system was crazy heavy and insanely loud.. This is a more modest build.

Double dipole is Boominator-style with 2 drivers front and back (but there's a little to it than that despite what people may think, and car audio speaker will not do it). Remember, I took my several years to develop the Boominator, and I had to rewrite some of Thiele/Smalls theories and formulas in the process.

Btw, check out the development thread I started for the Boominator MINI

Boominator MINI (development thread) - Speakerplans.com Forums
 
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Bipole, in it's simplest form involves two back to back drivers wired in parallel so the simultaneously drive in or out in phase. I was thinking one channel drives front to back, and the other drives left and right. Sort of a 360 sound source.

For divider, I meant that the bass reflex chambers for each driver needs to be isolated so one does mot push on the other through air space in common. If you use a physical divider wall, then you need 4 separate bass reflex ports and I think the bass is more efficient.

I use Solidworks too, fun stuff. Still on 2009 though.
 
Bipole, in it's simplest form involves two back to back drivers wired in parallel so the simultaneously drive in or out in phase. I was thinking one channel drives front to back, and the other drives left and right. Sort of a 360 sound source.

Like the Boominator. Just also remember than you need wide dispersion tweeters, minimum 90 degree to achieve the 360 sound.

For divider, I meant that the bass reflex chambers for each driver needs to be isolated so one does mot push on the other through air space in common. If you use a physical divider wall, then you need 4 separate bass reflex ports and I think the bass is more efficient.

I made that mistake too in the beginning. Actually you want the drivers to share the same volume in both sides so that the front and back facing speaker is in the same volume, playing the same signal. It vastly improves both bass response and midrange, especially midrange. The difference is really night and day.
 
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Like the Boominator. Just also remember than you need wide dispersion tweeters, minimum 90 degree to achieve the 360 sound.



I made that mistake too in the beginning. Actually you want the drivers to share the same volume in both sides so that the front and back facing speaker is in the same volume, playing the same signal. It vastly improves both bass response and midrange, especially midrange. The difference is really night and day.

So.. They can share the same volume, if they play the EXACT same thing? Cool. I'm actually thinking of throwing some Dayton PS180-8s in there and nixing the tweeters all together. I've already modeled it up and I love the look of those drivers.
 
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