Subwoofer assisted? That's cheating. Not fullrange anymore.
How's about Fullrange Assisted Tweeter Technology FATT? Somehow folks would definitely not call that fullrange anymore.
Not cheating at all
its a 2-way that I posted in the full range forum If you want some advice on FASTs I'd be happy to share what I've learned building 2. One was passive and one now active. This one I like more. I can show some measurements to if you'd like.
Personally I think FASTs are really about the best way to do a 2-way. The cross over is unobjectionable, the bass is real unlike little 6" MTs we see so many of, and generally inexpensive. The only faults are treble breakup (this one has some) and treble beaming (this one has none).
Not cheating at all
They are considered as part of the FR genre.
Given that no single driver is FR to get a FR system you have to have help at one end or the other. And these almost invariably have a FR driver in them... something you can enjoy all by itself.
dave
I don't have detailed measurements on this computer, but here is the simulation I ended up on. I haven't confirmed it worked yet. Hopefully over the Christmas break I'll get a chance to do more measuring of various projects, and I can confirm the model worked.
You can see in the transfer function that I have done any eq. Only level adjustment, and filters. Filters were 4th order each. Steeper than a lot of other FASTs. I nearly targeted 2nd order, and still might try that, but wanted to kill the woofer quick and save the little tang band from to much power. Plan to really run these hard. Already have
You can see in the transfer function that I have done any eq. Only level adjustment, and filters. Filters were 4th order each. Steeper than a lot of other FASTs. I nearly targeted 2nd order, and still might try that, but wanted to kill the woofer quick and save the little tang band from to much power. Plan to really run these hard. Already have
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No doubt. I used the same ones to build my bedroom system and they sound way better than 9.99 should sound!
I don't push mine nearly as hard as you plan to, so I just give them the full feed from the amp and they can handle the bass like a champ too. Crossed at 300, I can imagine they will take quite a beating.
In case you haven't seen what I did with the Tang Bands: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGiPnsFZAqM (that's just the 2 Tang Bands... no sub - the bass will only sound as good as what you listen to the video on, of course... listen on good speakers and the bass will shock you, I think.)
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I thought of that, but then they'd be at foot level, and I have a 4 and 2 year old who play a lot in that area of our house. I doubt the woofers would last more than a week. They're safe behind the screen, and quite point source this way too.
$9.99 is a hell of a steal! The plot supplied on the PE website looked extremely good. It'll be interesting to see your actual measurements. The 10-20k region looked above average for this size/cost of driver.
Screens and grills are a good idea for some adults too. I've had a few people just go and poke the drivers in a few of my builds!
Kyle
Screens and grills are a good idea for some adults too. I've had a few people just go and poke the drivers in a few of my builds!
Kyle
The measurements in my simulation are actual measurements. What I'm uncertain of is if the model is working in the cross over region.
And I say that loosely, as 9/10 the simulation works great.
From 500hz and up, it's real. You can see how flat it is. Stays within a 5db window. Sorry I cut off the 10khz+.
I gotta disagree with Cogitech though. The bass is where these things don't work. Hardly any bass. Kind of humerous in fact. But I didn't try hard to make bass out of them.
And I say that loosely, as 9/10 the simulation works great.
From 500hz and up, it's real. You can see how flat it is. Stays within a 5db window. Sorry I cut off the 10khz+.
I gotta disagree with Cogitech though. The bass is where these things don't work. Hardly any bass. Kind of humerous in fact. But I didn't try hard to make bass out of them.
What?
Then my cabinet design must be fan-%^&$#-tastic?!!?
Did you see/hear my bedroom setup on a proper set of speakers? The bass is insane for a pair of 3" speakers!
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Oh, I understand now.
I might have to see if I can get a set of those! I want to have a few things to try when I get my TV speakers together. They'll likely be a FAST as well with EL166s.
Kyle
Yup, that's them. I meant the bass I got from them wasn't very good. I suppose for a 3" it was ok. And that was based on listening to mine. I can't really tell what yours sound like. Very likely you know how to built a cab better than me. Not really my thing
Can you give us some details on your cab? Mine are just sealed of course. Like 4L or something.
Can you give us some details on your cab? Mine are just sealed of course. Like 4L or something.
Yup, that's them. I meant the bass I got from them wasn't very good. I suppose for a 3" it was ok. And that was based on listening to mine. I can't really tell what yours sound like. Very likely you know how to built a cab better than me. Not really my thing
HAHAHHAHAAHAaaaaa. Sorry. That was funny. I am a complete cabinet design noob. I was being sarcastic above.
Anyway, I have played the audio from that video through my main living room system. Anyone who does similar will likely be shocked how deep those little speakers in the video can dig.
Mine is a 13-ish litre, extremely long, thin tower design, ported and tuned to 52.5Hz with some accidental QW and/or TL action going on. 90% of the reason they sound so good is a combination of luck and stuffing.
A quick google confirmed that I am not the only one who has been able to coax a great deal of bass from these little wonders (albeit not at huge SPL).
Sorry for off-topic, but the build thread...http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/200912-nanotower-tang-band-w3-881si.html
Ah, thanks for the link to your thread. I get ya now. Ya, my sealed alignment is maybe hitting F3 of 120hz. Maybe. Which is just fine for my use. The most impressive thing to me about these is the frequency response. Very smooth/flat/extended. No beaming issues either.
The silver flutes have a decent xmax and seem to be able to take a punishment. I'm not particularly blown away by the silverflutes up around 1khz, but from 300hz down they have nice kick and stay very linear with loads of abuse. I'd MTM these tomorrow if I didn't have to order a pair. Then I could crank the crap out of these.
The silver flutes have a decent xmax and seem to be able to take a punishment. I'm not particularly blown away by the silverflutes up around 1khz, but from 300hz down they have nice kick and stay very linear with loads of abuse. I'd MTM these tomorrow if I didn't have to order a pair. Then I could crank the crap out of these.
Sorry this took me so long. I'm rarely on my measurement computer lately. Someone asked about measurements. And hopefully this will help someone interested in the little TB. And the silver flute I suppose. I have better data than this on the SF.
Anyways, red is the system on axis. This is indoors so I don't have much choice than to gate out everything below about 200hz. 5ms gate time.
Blue is the woofer nearfield. It has a low pass of 300hz LR 24db/oct, so really anything past about 450hz is the tang band sneeking in there. Use your imagination and connect the two. Right at the cross over so don't want to splice them.
Really flat all the way up Listening to Miles Davis right now and it's so sweet.!
Anyways, red is the system on axis. This is indoors so I don't have much choice than to gate out everything below about 200hz. 5ms gate time.
Blue is the woofer nearfield. It has a low pass of 300hz LR 24db/oct, so really anything past about 450hz is the tang band sneeking in there. Use your imagination and connect the two. Right at the cross over so don't want to splice them.
Really flat all the way up
Listening to Miles Davis right now and it's so sweet.!
The success of this build reinforces my suspicion that if one wanted to build large inexpensive, albeit, not very transportable speakers, use 2x4 in wood framing with gypsum board drywall. All you need is a miter box, hand saw, utility knife, and some drywall screws and a drill. You can make very large - wall like enclosures. Now, building the speaker with drywall allows you to really enhance it by designing in to the drywall structure, transmission lines, horns, etc.
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