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#21 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Cowichan Bay, BC
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#22 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Ladysmith, BC
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Quote:
its a 2-way that I posted in the full range forum ![]() If you want some advice on FASTs I'd be happy to share what I've learned building 2. One was passive and one now active. This one I like more. I can show some measurements to if you'd like. Personally I think FASTs are really about the best way to do a 2-way. The cross over is unobjectionable, the bass is real unlike little 6" MTs we see so many of, and generally inexpensive. The only faults are treble breakup (this one has some) and treble beaming (this one has none). |
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#23 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Ladysmith, BC
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#24 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
Given that no single driver is FR to get a FR system you have to have help at one end or the other. And these almost invariably have a FR driver in them... something you can enjoy all by itself. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#25 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Switzerland
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I'm interested.
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Markus |
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#26 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Ladysmith, BC
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I don't have detailed measurements on this computer, but here is the simulation I ended up on. I haven't confirmed it worked yet. Hopefully over the Christmas break I'll get a chance to do more measuring of various projects, and I can confirm the model worked.
You can see in the transfer function that I have done any eq. Only level adjustment, and filters. Filters were 4th order each. Steeper than a lot of other FASTs. I nearly targeted 2nd order, and still might try that, but wanted to kill the woofer quick and save the little tang band from to much power. Plan to really run these hard. Already have
Last edited by tuxedocivic; 17th December 2012 at 03:47 PM. |
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#27 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Switzerland
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Looking forward to your measurements.
You could also try a Allison-inspired boundary-coupled version: Mount the woofer at floor height. This should minimize adjacent-boundary effects.
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Markus |
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#28 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Kamloops, BC
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Quote:
I don't push mine nearly as hard as you plan to, so I just give them the full feed from the amp and they can handle the bass like a champ too. Crossed at 300, I can imagine they will take quite a beating. In case you haven't seen what I did with the Tang Bands: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGiPnsFZAqM (that's just the 2 Tang Bands... no sub - the bass will only sound as good as what you listen to the video on, of course... listen on good speakers and the bass will shock you, I think.) Last edited by cogitech; 17th December 2012 at 04:51 PM. |
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#29 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Ladysmith, BC
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I thought of that, but then they'd be at foot level, and I have a 4 and 2 year old who play a lot in that area of our house. I doubt the woofers would last more than a week. They're safe behind the screen, and quite point source this way too.
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#30 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Cowichan Bay, BC
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$9.99 is a hell of a steal! The plot supplied on the PE website looked extremely good. It'll be interesting to see your actual measurements. The 10-20k region looked above average for this size/cost of driver.
Screens and grills are a good idea for some adults too. I've had a few people just go and poke the drivers in a few of my builds! Kyle |
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