Impedance plots
OK, here are 3 plots of impedance. I hope it's legible.
OK, here are 3 plots of impedance. I hope it's legible.
- Magenta trace = no stuffing in rear chamber
- Blue Trace = as much pillow stuffing as will fit
- Green Trace= 1 car polishing rag about 8"x11". A tight fit in the camber.
Attachments
Yes, I am considering how to do the final 'dressing up' of these and silk screening or even an incorporation of the driver into the artwork is in order.
Glad to hear we have another on board.
There's one born every minute.
Yea, i'm using the FR125s's. It's what I have to work with, and I hate my 7L towers I had them in. (heavy, very narrow sweet spot, inefficient, can't place against wall, basically they never get used due to ergonomics) I was toying with making them a desktop nearfield, but couldn't get a small enough box modeled to make them fit on my desk without copious amounts of weird shaped cutting to reach an appropriate volume.
Thinking of ways to mitigate some of the bass response, (stuffing, volume) an easier problem to solve then having a too-thin sounding speaker at least (audio engineer in me says you can always subtract, but adding always comes with a catch). That's what makes me curious about the dimensional modeling.
At the end this will be a background music speaker, so there are levels of compromise I can live with on this one. Cheap, WAF, and gettting them used rather than collecting dust are the motivations on this one for me.
Thinking of ways to mitigate some of the bass response, (stuffing, volume) an easier problem to solve then having a too-thin sounding speaker at least (audio engineer in me says you can always subtract, but adding always comes with a catch). That's what makes me curious about the dimensional modeling.
At the end this will be a background music speaker, so there are levels of compromise I can live with on this one. Cheap, WAF, and gettting them used rather than collecting dust are the motivations on this one for me.
Yes, I am considering how to do the final 'dressing up' of these and silk screening or even an incorporation of the driver into the artwork is in order.
Glad to hear we have another on board.
There's one born every minute.
I think it is a great idea. Another, especially with the transparent-ish set, would be to add LEDs as accent lights. It's a wall sconce, its art, its a speaker!!!
The only reason I would not be on board is this is killing my justification for a CNC wood router. I figured that would be the only way to make this horn. Was thinking router top and bottom, and use masonite. This is better!
I made this point in the other thread - get away from the idea that a speaker must look like one. If it's thin, square and hangs on the wall, its WAF will be much higher if it looks like art. Covering it with fabric, stretched around and stapled at the back, is also much easier than sanding and painting / varnishing / staining. It will certainly be more acceptable than the floor-standing BLHs shown just above the "Measurements" section on that page.
Even if the front panel is opaque, you could mount lights just inside the horn mouths aimed so as to provide "wall wash" light.
I chickened out. 3'x3' is just going to be too big, at least for a first go. I got a small piece of 2x4' plywood cut in half, and I'm thinking of making a 2'x2' version for a 3' driver. I also got some foam board from a dollar store, so now it just comes down to getting the scale drawing of the design printed and picking the driver.
Yeah, 3 footers are pretty aggressive for a first job.... I think the 20 inchers are very manageable first job building wise and the 14 inchers are fun kid projects. The standard 27 inchers take some wood working skill becsuse of the size involved and fact that front and back panels are plywood. But if you have wood working experience, I don't think the 3 footers will be hard - they just use a lot of material.
I think the 20 inchers are very manageable first job building wise and the 14 inchers are fun kid projects. The standard 27 inchers take some wood working skill becsuse of the size involved and fact that front and back panels are plywood. But if you have wood working experience, I don't think the 3 footers will be hard - they just use a lot of material.
I wonder if the fact that Cornu uses divider to make 8 horns makes a difference and allows achievement of a nice measurement like this? It's more likely that the driverVas, xmax, Qts are matched with driver chamber and throat. This would indicate the drivers to use are 'Fostex' like: lower Qts, low xmax, high efficiency deals.
Yes, part of the problem is that the size is inconvenient. There's no way to avoid a lot of waste with anything over 2' per side. This way I can keep the project cheap!Yeah, 3 footers are pretty aggressive for a first job....
Pano,
When you made your spirals did you measure actual throat width in order to size depth? I just realized that my mini cornu was made non standard as it was hand drawn and I set throat wide at 1.2 in to keep profile thin at 2 and 3/8 inch. If you use Planet10's pdf and scaled to 20 in, the throat will be smaller and depth needs to be taller, maybe 4 inches even. Please check your layout plan and let me know what your actual throat width was. Wonder if this impacts performance?
Thanks,
Xrk971
When you made your spirals did you measure actual throat width in order to size depth? I just realized that my mini cornu was made non standard as it was hand drawn and I set throat wide at 1.2 in to keep profile thin at 2 and 3/8 inch. If you use Planet10's pdf and scaled to 20 in, the throat will be smaller and depth needs to be taller, maybe 4 inches even. Please check your layout plan and let me know what your actual throat width was. Wonder if this impacts performance?
Thanks,
Xrk971