Hi xrk,
Here are a few pics, they are not too pretty because I built them for sound and not looks and to make them look worse they fell off my other set of speakers because of the bass they put out. By the way I didn't score the paper on the walls, I wet it on both sides where the bends were which let the glue relax then curved it, glued it and when it dries the glue bonds again. If it didn't bond perfectly I glued it back down with thinned white glue. The next set will be larger and have ply on the front and back.
Thanks
Here are a few pics, they are not too pretty because I built them for sound and not looks and to make them look worse they fell off my other set of speakers because of the bass they put out. By the way I didn't score the paper on the walls, I wet it on both sides where the bends were which let the glue relax then curved it, glued it and when it dries the glue bonds again. If it didn't bond perfectly I glued it back down with thinned white glue. The next set will be larger and have ply on the front and back.
Thanks
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I stumbled across this thread yesterday, after searching for options for the number of Aurasound NS3-194-16as that I have. I'm very much looking to building the design, based on xrk's calculations in http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/242645-help-newbie-aurasound-speakers.html#post3635247
They appear to have a very high WAF, and if they're good enough, I may use them in my workplace.
The SPL plot looks very intriguing, but if the top end was lacking in any way (as I've found with this driver in another configuration), would it be feasible to add a tweeter to the design?
They appear to have a very high WAF, and if they're good enough, I may use them in my workplace.
The SPL plot looks very intriguing, but if the top end was lacking in any way (as I've found with this driver in another configuration), would it be feasible to add a tweeter to the design?
Anything is possible in the mind of a diy'er.
The difficulty is figuring where to mount the tweeter, along with the crossover components needed. You don't want to use up a significant amount of air space in the chamber behind the full (wide) range driver, and you don't want to block any of the throat openings.
I've been looking into the possiblity of using a small Dayton Audio ND20FB to use with the FR that I'm going to use. There are other similar small tweeters in that neodymium line at PE. I plan on mounting the drivers on a piece of wood that mounts on the foam board baffle. The thickness of the mounting board should offset some of the volume that would otherwise be taken up by the magnet structure. That will leave room for a limited amount of crossover components in a corner.
More ideas than time lately . . .
Maybe during Christmas break, or after the first of the year.
Thanks Fran, I wish I had your patience and skill to tastefully make what you did!
Hi Cal, Thanks, what driver size would that be for the 27" cornu a 4.5" to 5"? Any recomendations? I was wondering if I should try to put a phase plugs in the Vifa TC9FD-18-08 or even try to EnaBL it ?? Could there be any gains on a small driver? Thanks Again!!!
Webber
There is not any benefit to a phase plug for small 3 or 4 in drivers. You may actually hurt performance as much of the tweeter like behavior of the tc9 probably comes from the hemispherical dome dust cap. The tc9 actually has very flat frequency response up to 20khz and is a capable tweeter in its own right.
Sorry for the late response - I was just about to ask a question regarding it!
So something like this?
I finally have a scaled printout of the spirals, and am looking forward to making an attempt! I have a lot of cardboard that I could use to make a mock-up. Does this sound like a feasible material to try the design out with?
Ok. Would combining them with the plastic enclosure for the typical piezo buzzer work?
If that's the case, I might be able to mount the diaphragm on the back of the front 'baffle', and drill a hole (which appears to be quite discreet in size) to allow the sound through. Maybe even a tiny chamfer could be used on the outside to make it a tweeter horn...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
If that's the case, I might be able to mount the diaphragm on the back of the front 'baffle', and drill a hole (which appears to be quite discreet in size) to allow the sound through. Maybe even a tiny chamfer could be used on the outside to make it a tweeter horn...
I understand. Yes, it seems that the piezo route is not the right one for this project.
When I was working on a line array project, I was made aware of these tweeters:
Onkyo 3/8" Mylar Tweeter On 6"x9" Bracket | 269-788
The tweeter is removable from the bracket, so it's easy to mount these with a small footprint (albeit there aren't any screws, but hot glue works)...
When I was working on a line array project, I was made aware of these tweeters:
Onkyo 3/8" Mylar Tweeter On 6"x9" Bracket | 269-788
The tweeter is removable from the bracket, so it's easy to mount these with a small footprint (albeit there aren't any screws, but hot glue works)...
This one has better efficiency and probably sounds better.
Vifa OX20SC00-04 3/4" Fabric Dome Tweeter | 264-1002
Vifa OX20SC00-04 3/4" Fabric Dome Tweeter | 264-1002
Any chance you could post or email that autocad file? I'm intrigued by this speaker and have a diy cnc machine in my workshop. I think i could throw these together in an afternoon with your file.