Foam core can be surprisingly strong when formed into structures like a C channel with bracing. 24 of the 3 in drivers are not that heavy but may require reinforcement with masonite strips. I want to avoid making baffle out of anything that requires a saw as I want to cut all 24 cutouts (per side) with a razor by hand. I can also double up thickness of baffle.
I was at CVS and saw this ipod tower speaker on sale for $35. It appears to have four 3 in full range drivers. Is it worth it either for use for what it is or to strip for parts?
Amazon.com: Craig Electronics 30-Pin iPod/iPhone/iPad Speaker Dock Tower: MP3 Players & Accessories
Amazon.com: Craig Electronics 30-Pin iPod/iPhone/iPad Speaker Dock Tower: MP3 Players & Accessories
24 of those drivers is about 7.5 pounds, so it's possible. If I were doing it, I'd get a long strip of wood and use a hole saw to cut holes along it with the right size and spacing to hold the magnets of the drivers. That would take most of the weight off the baffle.
The reviews by folks who actually buy it are consistently pretty good - but that is your average person with no hifi expectations. After seeing the Aurasound $1 driver deal, it is hard to see how anything like this can have as good a driver for the money.
So you would recommend the 4 x 6 configuration with circa 10 ohms over the 3 x 8 version with 6 ohms? It certainly makes the subunits a little more manageable in size.
Do you or anyone with OB expertise have a suggestion as to how wide the OB should be for this line array, and should drivers be offset to one side slightly? Again, limitation is the width of the foam core stock, i would like to be able to make whole baffle with C channel sides out of a single 20 x 30 sheet per 6 drivers. I was thinking 16 in wide with 7 in deep sides ( wings). But if it would make it sound a lot better with much wider baffles, I could do that. It just starts to look too imposing and WAF goes way down...
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That's a good idea about the strip of wood with holes, but I have an easier and faster solution when the drivers only cost $1 ea - hot melt glue the backs to a thin strip of wood for support. You can always pry hot melt from metal with a razor if needed.
Like I said, I am trying to avoid making any sawdust...
I've just been working on the push pull in my vector program and it's just too freggin big.
It wouldn't make sense for this driver.
Is the idea that one driver is mounted with cone into compression chamber and other face out in order to cancel driver hysteresis? Show me a sketch of the concept.
That's a better idea, since you have the glue gun hot already...
Now I just need to order the 50 drivers. I hope they don't charge more for the shipping than the cost of the drivers or that's a deal breaker...
Well, I deleted it. It's just too huge.
The basic idea is to have a front loading horn coupled with a rear loaded horn. It's just for efficiency and getting the most low end that you can, also they are great for directivity.
Well, to give you an idea of the size....think about the path length and mouth area for the conru, then add the front expansion as well. The design was kind of a large V on wall.
Here, this is an example of a push pull.
About the 5th post down.
horn loading - Page 2 - pink fish media
Ok, one driver but horn on front and back. The real Cornu has options for a front horn, it is not too big. The non folded types are just too huge looking and would not work well in most homes with a spouse. It's just like the post in the link said, a non-folded horn is either a sign of celibacy or imminent divorce...
