Not at all. But there is a learning curve. (no pun intended, but it's not that bad, actually...) In fact what I learned on the way (mostly gluhandling, to invent a word...) makes me wonder if I should just start again... I mean, there is about 12 bucks worth of materials there. No big deal.
But I won't make that decision until I bond the top to the spiral. Which might be done with liquid nails (it can span a bit of gap) because there was some sloppy cutting of the foamcore before I figured out how to to it cleanly.
As with anything, there are things you need to know before building one that can only be learned by building one.
But I won't make that decision until I bond the top to the spiral. Which might be done with liquid nails (it can span a bit of gap) because there was some sloppy cutting of the foamcore before I figured out how to to it cleanly.
As with anything, there are things you need to know before building one that can only be learned by building one.
...so I did the grill cloth today. I didn't think it was that involved, I've done grills that way in the past but I forgot that this was more than 30 feet. Makes me question my choice of materials. Took me than 2 hours.
Gotta give up the computer, SWMBO needs it for a bit.
Gotta give up the computer, SWMBO needs it for a bit.
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Looks good Cal. You used hot melt to hold the cloth on? I noticed the wood floor ( or Pergo?) you have there - that might make nice material for front panels....
I finished one Son of Conucopya or micro-Cornu spiral horn today with driver mounted. I have not had much of a chance to listen but it does sound good - lots of extra bass and room filling sound from the edges. Of course the bass doesn't go as deep as the tc9's as the driver has an Fs of around 200 Hz and the channels are tuned around 87 Hz I think. It really will be over the top for a desktop speaker for my pc but I think it will work well on little stands (like the ones used to hold plates up). I will have to await full judgement when I can get both left and right to listen to as it is not fair to judge it in mono and with such a cheap no-name driver scrounged from a cheap pc speaker. You can see how small it looks bext to the 20 inch minis. I actually left enough room to put a smaller 3 in driver in this cabinet. Maybe the TB W3-881si they have on clearance at PE?
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I'm just a spectator right now, but this is a very intriguing (seemingly easy) DIY project! Some thoughts: (1) has anyone tried using pre-made material for the spirals? I am no handy-man, but here are some ideas: vinyl moulding, weather stripping (if wide enough), or even a garage door seal like a visiting dog destroyed in my house several summers ago like:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_290249-1410-RV18_4294774692__?productId=3111459&Ns=p_product_avg_rating|1
This product is 2.75" wide ... at least ballpark for proper width (or is it?);
(2) How much design is required for such a speaker? I know zero about horns. From a quick read of the thread the design seems to be "forgiving" but why not try for the best?
(3) This seems a simple idea -- any commercial examples of it?
http://www.lowes.com/pd_290249-1410-RV18_4294774692__?productId=3111459&Ns=p_product_avg_rating|1
This product is 2.75" wide ... at least ballpark for proper width (or is it?);
(2) How much design is required for such a speaker? I know zero about horns. From a quick read of the thread the design seems to be "forgiving" but why not try for the best?
(3) This seems a simple idea -- any commercial examples of it?
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Design is limited to scaling overall size and depth of channel to match driver piston area. I'm sure someone will model this soon and that will open up the design. It is forgiving though.
Commercially made by Cornu in Germany. That is why we call it Cornucopya.
Other materials for channels are always welcome. They need to be structurally stiff in direction perpendicular to bend but easy to bend.
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Yes, hot glue. Pin the ends, then the center and work your outward a little at a time till you reach the corners. The block of wood is for flattening the glue after you place the cloth over it. Trimming the excess was a slow process.
I'll see if I can get to the 'picture frame' part today.
Yes it is. Very rewarding too. I woona thunka, but it's true, you can make these with limited tools and knowledge.
There is no doubt that it's easy, with very minimal tools required. Give it a whirl if you are inclined!
Looking at Cal's speakers, this is interesting, as I am going to go down a completely different route regarding the esthetics of the horn openings...
Oh, another question -- Cal, how are you mounting the speaker to the front? Through-bolts? Did you attach a nutplate to the front baffle? I'm curious because once the front is on I won't be able to get to the inside of the front panel with the speaker in place...
Looking at Cal's speakers, this is interesting, as I am going to go down a completely different route regarding the esthetics of the horn openings...
Oh, another question -- Cal, how are you mounting the speaker to the front? Through-bolts? Did you attach a nutplate to the front baffle? I'm curious because once the front is on I won't be able to get to the inside of the front panel with the speaker in place...
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There are no secrets allowed in this thread - you have to fess up.
Don't worry, I will hopefully have photos today.
(Oh, check my previous post, I added a question to you after posting)
To start with, just screws. I thought I would need the bolts/sleeves/dowels or W.H.Y. for the facers but I don't see the need at this point. It is stronger than I had imagined. I am using #8 screws now but will up them later. If I decide to leave it like that, I will hot glue in some reinforcement pieces behind the existing holes. If I decide to go the Supra Baffle route, I will do something decorative for those fasteners and simple screw the driver(s) to that.
If you are using a foam core front baffle like me, I hot melted some pieces of wood - actually thin MDF) reinforcement behind the face where the screws go and am holding the driver in with essentially dry-wall screws. Wood screws would work well too. I am routing my wiring all the way through the channels by cutting little holes to thread the wire down to one edge. Sealing the holes with hot melt. Putting a binding post of spring clip recessed cup directly behind driver is good too if you have the depth. I hang mine with aviation wire too and that allows the panel to slightly tilt down like a picture. Are you guys giving any thought to the orientation - which channel up/down?