Foam Core Board Speaker Enclosures?

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All I do is scale the channel depth so that the throat area is at least as big as the driver piston area Sd. For the EL70 follow the 70 x70 cm plan and make it 3.9 in deep (4 in is probably ok). One thing that concerns me with these drivers is that they don't have a rising high end like TB W4-1337 which looks like a tweeter from 10k to 20k Hz. The Cornu puts out so much bass it can really benefit from an 'unaturally' high end to get decent highs to compete with thr bass. Usually you have the other problem, not enough bass. Also, if you don't need the horn to reach down to 38 Hz you can scale it smaller, the low bass tuning freq scales proportionally.

Thank you very much. I think Dave has the same concerns about the EL70 in this type of enclosure. The EL70 is known for uncanny amounts of bass for a 4" driver.

I might just do it anyway. Materials are cheap enough. If it sucks, I'll put the drivers in something different and maybe eventually get some "hotter" drivers for the Cornu...
 
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Thanks guys! Funny thing is, I had some old 5" mid/base drivers from an old Kenwood stereo and put them in the big Dell cardboard boxes in parallel with the vifas. It completely floored me: full nice bass and mids, and there are highs too. The cardboard boxes beat my other speakers. :mad: The cornucopya has to be better, I can't keep the cardboard in the living room.:gnasher:

This is exactly how I got started with diy speakers, when I realized that a cardboard box with no real design could sound good. Then a foam core box with design has to be better... If you think your Dell server boxes sound good you are in for a real treat with cornucopya.
 
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Do you have any idea what the top veneer is?
No, but let's call it Maple burl until someone corrects us. ;)

Does it look good with the oil on? I'm not sure whether to go for shellac or simply do it with oil like you.
I don't like shiny so to me it's great. Careful of the grain though. It is very pronounced. You can only rub one direction or you lose all the fiber in your cloth. There are also some marks from the production of it that didn't show up till the oil came on the scene, so it's far from perfect but still nice for something called underlay.
 
Leave the back plain - there is little reason to dress something up that will only be on the wall.
I ended up treating it the same as the front. See below.
Whatever SWMBO wants for the trim.
It was too obvious to ignore.
Where will binding posts go?
Middle of the back.
I think trim only goes on front like picture frame. If you slightly angled trim outwards you will get additional horn expansion to direct sound forward and louder.
I think the box is too deep to leave it plain. It looks unbalanced - to my eyes at least.
Mucho mas basso senor...;)
Oui, beaucoup de basses monsieur.
 
I'm not sure they will be mounted right to the wall unless I can tame the bass a little with the stuffing. They may end up on stands instead. If I do decide to wall mount, I can use aviation cable and hang them like a picture. That way there is clearance at the top, just like a picture and the wires head up toward the ceiling, not down as normally.
 
Ive been busy drawing up horns and simming them in hr based solely on the tangband driver with some decent results. I couldnt get enough deep response to use the TL style cab using hr.

Ive managed to get a reasonably flat response that drops off like a cliff at 50hz but is flat enough for my liking up to 85 then climbs a bit higher at 100 and then spikes massive at 200.. But thats a massive improvement from the first which sims at a massive 125hz peak dropping off pretty well anyhithing lower than that.

So ill be buying some foam core tomorrow (its 2:24am here at the moment- dam cats playing chasies woke me up with a big bang) along with some dressmakers pins and glue. Ive dressed my drivers so they look pretty and ill be getting stuck in.
 
What's difference anyway? With a bit of sanding sealer the birch is maple... sort of. :)
Um, ok. I thought the Birch were similar to Poplar, Aspen, Alders and Cottonwoods, but I like the idea of Maple so I'm sticking with that. :D
Cal, did parts of your veneer absorb visibly more oil than others? Would you do it differently now?
I have one of those large cans of the oil so I was pretty liberal with it. In fact, when I went back 30 minutes later, only a few small areas needed a second coat. The trim on the other hand, Hemlock [sorry - couldn't justify Oak for the first go round with these], seemed a bit thirsty and absorbed both coats quite well.

No I wouldn't change a thing. I use the Fruitwood oil anywhere I can. If I wait another 3 days, I can Varathane them but I don't think I will. I like the oil finish.
 
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Here are the salvaged baby drivers that I will put in the 'Son of Cornucopya' until I find a good 2 inch driver. Does anyone know who makes these? The "Y S" designation sounds like an Asian brand of some sort. I may even use the little amp that comes with it (maybe stuff it inside the speaker cavity in the middle of the horn?) Should be plenty loud for office desktop speakers...:D
 

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What about the W4-1757SB? I know this looks very non-traditional, but the flat panel look may be kind of cool in the Cornucopya cabinet, if painted white to blend in with walls. The performance is actually pretty good if you look at the curves - it has that nice hot high end that would work well to balance out the copious deep bass.
http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/264-881s.pdf
 
Just a duffer here, but I want to salute you "real" DIY-ers here. I haven't taken the time (yet) to read this whole thread, but a spiral wall-hanging foam board speaker. What a great idea. As for me, I require loud (and mostly assembled) so it's ancient Bose 901's and cheap class D power for me. I am new to glue guns and it is useful to seal old screw holes in cabinets that were whistling ("vented" Bose 901 series II?). We have to be proud of even small victories! I admire (envy?) you guys..I'm the guy who build a bird house in shop class and it was condemned :)
 
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Soldermizer,
Hey thanks for the kind words, but it really is a collective of the super smart and creative folks on this board who make it all happen. I was just the first to say why can't a Cornu spiral be made of foam? It really is an easy build, and maybe Cal and I will put together a "How-To" thread soon so that you don't have to sift through the 40 pages of posts. Start small and give it a shot. I would suggest the simple one-fold flat wall hanging TL as a beginner project (somewhere back on post 16 - do search for posts by Sayrum and he will have a link to it on a German forum). It sounds really good. If you end up building one of the bigger Cornucopyas with the 4 or 5 inch drivers, they can be very loud. The interesting thing with them is that they (like Bose 901's) produce a wide soundstage with room-filling sound since the sound emanates from all the edges. I have heard 901's before and these sound much better (especially the deep bass and crystal highs which 901's do not have). Give it a try and you will be amazed. I drive mine with class T amps and it works very well.
Regards,
Xrk971
 
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I don't understand how you can hang it flat against a wall with binding posts coming out the middle of the back? Unless you are doing the recessed pocket ones... but then you have a speaker cable between the back and the wall coming down?

As I said in another thread:

"Rubber or foam "feet" of appropriately different lengths could be attached to all four corners to force the frame to optimal toe-in and/or "toe-down" (depending mounting height, distance, etc). This is all assuming that the "frame" is hung with a flexible apparatus such as wire strung between 2 side-mounted eye hooks. Some bass extension from wall reinforcement might be lost in the process of moving one edge away from the wall, but it might be gained back on the opposite side of the "frame".

This solution would also allow clearance for the speaker cable.
 
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