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Old 15th December 2012, 04:24 PM   #751
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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I might give the paper surround drivers a try then. I can bypass the bad pot and set to max vol.
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Old 15th December 2012, 05:16 PM   #752
badman is offline badman  United States
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Agreed, paper surround doesn't= bad driver.
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Old 15th December 2012, 05:51 PM   #753
ruerose is offline ruerose  Canada
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Got the board (20x30' $4 walmart), thinking of a gameplan now.

How about acrylic latex bathroom adhesive? Rereading I saw it mentioned, did it work well?

Also, how deep should I be making my cab? And can I still fit this in a 20" scale?

Fs: 67 hz
Sd: 57 cm^2
http://meniscusaudio.com/images/CSS-FR125-data-v3s.pdf

Last edited by ruerose; 15th December 2012 at 06:14 PM.
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Old 15th December 2012, 06:13 PM   #754
6L6 is offline 6L6  United States
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You need the inherent tacky quality of the hot glue to hold the spiral in place as you are forming it.
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Old 15th December 2012, 06:13 PM   #755
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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That latex caulking could work but takes long to dry. Try Gorilla glue. I used hot melt to tack and white pva glue to bond. I think so far the glues used include: hot melt, pva (white and yellow), gorilla glue, liquid nails.
The biggest roadblock is getting the channels cut. Use a razor and straight edge - makes nice clean straight cuts. Once you have that and the design drawn on the board it goes very fast. The slowest step is the final bond of the cap. If use pva, takes overnight and with gorilla glue takes 20 minutes, or if you are sporty, hot melt the top in pieces.
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Old 15th December 2012, 06:45 PM   #756
ruerose is offline ruerose  Canada
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10cm driver diameter, so looks like I will need 70mm (27.5") panel based on Planets vector drawing (4:1 scale).

Driver is an even 75cm (3") deep.
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Old 15th December 2012, 06:53 PM   #757
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruerose View Post
10cm driver diameter, so looks like I will need 70mm (27.5") panel based on Planets vector drawing (4:1 scale).

Driver is an even 75cm (3") deep.
You can't use the 20 inch foam board for the face then. That's too bad.
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Old 15th December 2012, 07:12 PM   #758
ruerose is offline ruerose  Canada
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I'm thinking I will use 2 panels for the front, I plan on doing some vinyl overlay on the fronts, so the seam won't be an issue.


Although....4x8 clear chloroplast is easy to get. If someone wanted that frosted look, you could use it for the front and backs and use the channels to route the wires in a clean way. Adhesive concerns would need to be figured out, as we have foam core, paper edges, and chloroplast to adhere. Not to mention one would have to be really good with the cleanliness of the glue and the edge cuts. I'm thinking ultra clear sealant (cant remember the name, comes only in a very clear sqeeze tube)

Last edited by ruerose; 15th December 2012 at 07:27 PM.
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Old 15th December 2012, 07:56 PM   #759
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This thread is off the hook!!!
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Old 15th December 2012, 09:37 PM   #760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruerose View Post
How about acrylic latex bathroom adhesive?
You could just tack the foam board in place with hot glue and then fill the gaps with caulk I suppose.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6L6 View Post
You need the inherent tacky quality of the hot glue to hold the spiral in place as you are forming it.
Yes, that's what makes this project workable. I used nothing but hot glue on phase 1 of the spiral but I had to keep telling myself not to tool it like caulk.

The skin has almost grown back on my finger.
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