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#481 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Toronto
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#482 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Virginia
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In the patent - this is the first time I have seen a deflector cone at the bottom of the driver cavity. I wonder if this is needed or helps? Planet10, you have apparently been following this speaker design for a while now as you have the patent on hand. If you don't know German, it is hard to understand compared to the Romance languages. If this was a standard pdf we could translate it with google.
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#483 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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The pdf is what i downloaded from the patent search site.
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#484 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Coffs Harbour NSW 2450
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@sprokeT i get mine from officeworks. Its not "cheap" at 10.30 a sheet, but it is compared to the price of wood. And it comes in different colours
Xrk, yes its another th with a common mouth. Four drivers, one on the front on each side and one inverted on the mouth. i couldnt get any other design to simulate a low enough response. This design is winning so far. My first go sims at a peak of 125hz and also measures the same. So im sure this one will be much better.
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#485 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Toronto
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I wondered about that too. Also, see that platform that gets thicker towards the middle? That would insure more of a true horn shape for each channel.
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#486 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Virginia
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Quote:
It is cool but a fabrication nightmare. I am not sure if having a horn that expands in both dimensions makes it perform better. We have a cross sectional area expansion in one dimension now and from all accounts, it seems to generate sufficient bass to fill in with the mid and high end. Note how they also score the plywood channels on the inside to make the bends.
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#487 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Virginia
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Quote:
Even in Australian dollars, $10/sheet hurts. Not sure if I would play with it at that price. You can get plywood here in the states at that price. At least the Sureply underlayment that Cal is using is around that price. That's an interesting design to have two drivers one at mouth and another in the back - where did you get this design or was it your own? Are there phase cancellation issues?
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#488 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Coffs Harbour NSW 2450
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Quote:
Quote:
also, i noticed that if i pinched the mouth opening slightly i actually got an increase in bass output, so having the driver in the mouth is hopefully going to gain me a bit of deep bass by acting as a bit of a physical filter/plug. as far as phaze issues, im not sure yet. according to the sim i get a big deep notch at about 225hz, which IMO is fine, coz i usually drop the EQ slider around that freq anyway. im aiming this one to be a bit more visually appealing, so i dressed up the front driver with some black vinyl dye, and i plan on dressing up the outside of the box properly, like i planned with the original but never got to. ive been using dressmakers pins to hold the panels while the glue dries and it seems to be working quite well. and using PU glue in fine beads. which also worked well on the previous box. (just used a bit too much tho i think... lol) anyway, my internet shoudl be fixed this thursday (fingers crossed) and ill be able to put up pics as they happen, rather than using works internet...
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#489 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Coffs Harbour NSW 2450
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oh, just re-read what you asked, its not that theres a driver in the back, just one on each front face, and one on each side inside the mouth. like my first horn, but brought to the front, with one inverted for space.
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#490 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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Progress, and I want to tell you about a sign from god. [must be 'cause I'm not that smart and I don't know who else to give the credit to.]
I have been wondering about attaching the trim pieces. I want it to be fairly fast as I am an impatient person. I want it to be fully adhered, not just spot adhered to reduce the chance of buzzing. I would like to use hot glue but the run is too long so I was settling on wood glue. Damn, wood glue takes a while to set up and needs lots of clamps. Hmph! Then it hit me. Lay a bead of wood glue with small gaps at set intervals. Use hot glue in the gaps and voila! Fully adhered and the hot glue does the clamping. They were done in no time. Wahoo! I have a lot of cleaning to do before I mount the drivers so no pics yet but I'm sure I'll have them in a bit. I also notice how the quality of workmanship goes downhill post-rum so last night's effort was well, how do you say... ...nah, I not saying anything, they'll be fine.
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