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Old 6th December 2012, 01:56 AM   #421
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Originally Posted by xrk971 View Post
All I do is scale the channel depth so that the throat area is at least as big as the driver piston area Sd. For the EL70 follow the 70 x70 cm plan and make it 3.9 in deep (4 in is probably ok). One thing that concerns me with these drivers is that they don't have a rising high end like TB W4-1337 which looks like a tweeter from 10k to 20k Hz. The Cornu puts out so much bass it can really benefit from an 'unaturally' high end to get decent highs to compete with thr bass. Usually you have the other problem, not enough bass. Also, if you don't need the horn to reach down to 38 Hz you can scale it smaller, the low bass tuning freq scales proportionally.
Thank you very much. I think Dave has the same concerns about the EL70 in this type of enclosure. The EL70 is known for uncanny amounts of bass for a 4" driver.

I might just do it anyway. Materials are cheap enough. If it sucks, I'll put the drivers in something different and maybe eventually get some "hotter" drivers for the Cornu...
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Old 6th December 2012, 01:58 AM   #422
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FF125 was 4.5 inch
I was thinking it was 3.5" but i misremembered.

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Old 6th December 2012, 02:02 AM   #423
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I might just do it anyway
Same cutout for CHR70 and FE108, maybe even FF105.

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Old 6th December 2012, 03:05 AM   #424
xrk971 is online now xrk971  United States
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Originally Posted by ikoflexer View Post
Thanks guys! Funny thing is, I had some old 5" mid/base drivers from an old Kenwood stereo and put them in the big Dell cardboard boxes in parallel with the vifas. It completely floored me: full nice bass and mids, and there are highs too. The cardboard boxes beat my other speakers. The cornucopya has to be better, I can't keep the cardboard in the living room.
This is exactly how I got started with diy speakers, when I realized that a cardboard box with no real design could sound good. Then a foam core box with design has to be better... If you think your Dell server boxes sound good you are in for a real treat with cornucopya.

Last edited by xrk971; 6th December 2012 at 03:07 AM.
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Old 6th December 2012, 12:52 PM   #425
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Do you have any idea what the top veneer is?
No, but let's call it Maple burl until someone corrects us.

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Does it look good with the oil on? I'm not sure whether to go for shellac or simply do it with oil like you.
I don't like shiny so to me it's great. Careful of the grain though. It is very pronounced. You can only rub one direction or you lose all the fiber in your cloth. There are also some marks from the production of it that didn't show up till the oil came on the scene, so it's far from perfect but still nice for something called underlay.
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Old 6th December 2012, 01:28 PM   #426
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Leave the back plain - there is little reason to dress something up that will only be on the wall.
I ended up treating it the same as the front. See below.
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Originally Posted by xrk971 View Post
Whatever SWMBO wants for the trim.
It was too obvious to ignore.
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Where will binding posts go?
Middle of the back.
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I think trim only goes on front like picture frame. If you slightly angled trim outwards you will get additional horn expansion to direct sound forward and louder.
I think the box is too deep to leave it plain. It looks unbalanced - to my eyes at least.
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Mucho mas basso senor...
Oui, beaucoup de basses monsieur.
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Old 6th December 2012, 01:49 PM   #427
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No, but let's call it Maple burl until someone corrects us.
I think the manufacturer's website says it is birch.
SurePly® Premium Underlayment | Patriot Timber
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Old 6th December 2012, 01:51 PM   #428
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I'm going to stick with cal on this one... It's maple burl.

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Old 6th December 2012, 01:52 PM   #429
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Middle of the back.

.
I don't understand how you can hang it flat against a wall with binding posts coming out the middle of the back? Unless you are doing the recessed pocket ones... but then you have a speaker cable between the back and the wall coming down?
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Old 6th December 2012, 02:22 PM   #430
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I'm not sure they will be mounted right to the wall unless I can tame the bass a little with the stuffing. They may end up on stands instead. If I do decide to wall mount, I can use aviation cable and hang them like a picture. That way there is clearance at the top, just like a picture and the wires head up toward the ceiling, not down as normally.
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