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Old 7th February 2013, 12:44 PM   #1261
BWRX is offline BWRX  United States
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Originally Posted by Cal Weldon View Post
Holy cow it's Brian! How the dog and be devil are you man?
Hi Cal. I'm good. Glad to see you guys are still alive, kicking, and pushing the boundaries of DIY audio.

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Originally Posted by xrk971 View Post
Bwrx,
I'm not sure what you mean about cutting out the are where the wall goes? You mean a slot? That's how the commercial Cornu is made with a slot on the middle separator panel.
Instead of a dado/slot/channel in the sides I just meant cut straight through the foam so you have a slot to put the wall into. It appears that I need to research the history of the Cornu a bit more.

I've used this stuff before to make architectural models and it's nice to work with. You can get fancy with tools that let you cut nice angles but as you have shown you can get great results with minimal effort just using a straight edge and a knife!
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Old 7th February 2013, 03:47 PM   #1262
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Found a neat product- delayed cure epoxy. Looks like a full 30 min of open assembly time before the cure begins. Should be great match for foamcore builds.
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Old 7th February 2013, 11:59 PM   #1263
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Hey X, What do you think about using some Iso or type IV EPS for making a tapped horn?
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Old 8th February 2013, 12:19 AM   #1264
xrk971 is online now xrk971  United States
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Cal,
I think it's a great idea and in fact I suggested it a few posts back. So did Kenlbird. It's pretty inexpensive and big. Use framing adhesive?
R-Matte Plus 3 R-3.2 1/2 in. 4 ft. x 8 ft. Foam Insulating Sheathing-754404 at The Home Depot
You can make a full size BIB for 8 in driver with it or a HT tapped horn sub.
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Old 8th February 2013, 12:46 AM   #1265
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Thanks X, I can get what I need through work. Forgive me for not noticing the tapped horn stuff. I would like to do a clamshell [isobaric?] style as I have 4 small woofers and room for only 2 cabinets. I will have to look through the threads to see if this is something you can do.
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Old 8th February 2013, 12:49 AM   #1266
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I found one but it didn't give me much so maybe I will start another thread. I think I am now in the wrong forum.

Cheers.
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Old 8th February 2013, 01:07 AM   #1267
xrk971 is online now xrk971  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal Weldon View Post
Thanks X, I can get what I need through work. Forgive me for not noticing the tapped horn stuff. I would like to do a clamshell [isobaric?] style as I have 4 small woofers and room for only 2 cabinets. I will have to look through the threads to see if this is something you can do.
When you say clamshell do you mean drivers are inside between two chambers with vent on one side? A 4th order bandpass sub cabinet?

I just designed one today with the Aura 6 in NS6 closeout woofers $9 ea. Flat bandpass from 40 to 100 Hz with 87 to 89 db efficiency in box 8 x 12 x 24 in. Perfect for foam sheathing.
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Old 8th February 2013, 10:26 AM   #1268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrk971 View Post
Cal,
I think it's a great idea and in fact I suggested it a few posts back. So did Kenlbird. It's pretty inexpensive and big. Use framing adhesive?
R-Matte Plus 3 R-3.2 1/2 in. 4 ft. x 8 ft. Foam Insulating Sheathing-754404 at The Home Depot
You can make a full size BIB for 8 in driver with it or a HT tapped horn sub.
I really wonder if that will work, here comes Mr. Downer, all of the thick insulation I have used, usually the pink 3/4", has had a strange resonance. Now I did not use it for any cabinets, thought about it. But when handling it, it just seems like it's natural resonance would cause issues.

I hope I am wrong! If you get a chance go pull a piece off the shellf and thump on it a bit.
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Old 8th February 2013, 10:32 AM   #1269
xrk971 is online now xrk971  United States
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All materials have resonance, even foam core with paper facing and mdf. Use lots of bracing on larger spans.
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Old 8th February 2013, 01:48 PM   #1270
GM is offline GM  United States
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I really wonder if that will work, here comes Mr. Downer, all of the thick insulation I have used, usually the pink 3/4", has had a strange resonance.
Will work best overall with high Q drivers to help damp their inherent 'ringing', but bracing goes a long ways towards stiffening it up if using a lower Q driver.

One of many published fun projects from the early days of engineered insulation board that helped fuel my interest in DIY speaker design: Weems Celotex TL - a set on Flickr

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