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-   -   3" FR + 6" woofer - beginner - help (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/223203-3-fr-6-woofer-beginner-help.html)

TFG1067 9th November 2012 08:58 AM

3" FR + 6" woofer - beginner - help
 
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I'm very inexperienced when it comes to designing speakers - so I bought 6 3" FR for various practice projects.

2 of them I was going to use in some simple computer speakers but I added the 6" woofers so I could get free shipping, and thought they might work well with the FR in a 2-way setup.

TB W3-881SI 3" - Tang Band W3-881SI 3" Speaker 299-113

Aura NS6-255-8A 6" - Aura NS6-255-8A 6" Paper Cone Neodymium Magnet Woofer 299-030

Most of the FAST projects (if I understand that term correctly) involve much larger woofers. I'm not expecting a ton in bass, so I figured the 6" would be fine. I'm looking to build something bookshelf size (maybe 9x15x8), but I'm not quite sure how to calculate the XO for such a project. I have the graph information for both drivers. Do you think this setup would sound fair?

wintermute 9th November 2012 09:16 AM

I'd say go for it if you want to learn something! I think you would have a lot of flexibility as far as where you cross them over and could experiment with crossovers probably from 300hz up to 3000 hz!

Tony.

Juicie 9th November 2012 09:29 AM

Here you can get some inspiration:

Loudspeakers by Emil Attlid

and

forum.zelfbouwaudio.nl • Toon onderwerp - The Cooper - small and FAST (dutch)

TFG1067 9th November 2012 10:38 PM

I like that first design, pretty slick

so when figuring out a XO, I should do a high and low pass and wire them parallel? I didn't know if I was supposed to do something different because of the FR. Also, since there's a 5dB difference in the SPL between the two, should I add an L-pad?

I found this page and was going to follow the instructions http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...asurement.html
does anyone know of an easy to use program that would general a graph for me?

Thanks!

tuxedocivic 9th November 2012 10:54 PM

Honestly, as much of a graphs kind of guy I am, I would use a stock cross over and fiddle fart from there. That is unless you love to fiddle fart on a computer. I think you'd get bogged down and annoyed. More fun building and listening.

If you do want to take a stab at using software, most beginners like me use PCD. I can email you some files to try and play with if you're interested in seeing how it goes.

wintermute 10th November 2012 06:48 AM

It's a bit hard comparing those sensitivity figures because the tangband doesn't state whether it was 2.85V @ 1M or something else. However it is to your advantage if the woofer is higher sensitivity than the TB because if you put some baffle step compensation in it will bring the high end of the wo0fer down a bit but keep the bottom end up to the level of the TB. additionally if you look, the tb has a rising response (as does the woofer) so it is actually closer to that of the woofer at higher frequencies...

You should not end up needing any padding (at least on the woofer) I suspect.

Tony.

planet10 10th November 2012 07:53 AM

If the sensitivities are as published then an XO at or just below the baffle step should give a reasonable balance in-room.

So the wider your box, the lower the XO (and the bigger the parts if you go passive)

dave

TFG1067 10th November 2012 12:33 PM

Thanks for the help! Too bad there isn't someone around like you guys I could intern with for a few days.

I noticed on the two designs Juicie posted, that each driver has its own compartments within the box, is this necessary? If so, when designing the box should I design it as two separate boxes? perhaps the woofer vented and FR closed?

wintermute 10th November 2012 12:37 PM

Yes you definitely need to have the two drivers isolated from each other, and I would think (without having done any modeling) that sealed would be best for the TB.

If you want some decent bass extention then vented should help on the woofer.

Tony.

TFG1067 12th November 2012 01:15 AM

Do you personally think it's feasible to design a descent XO from the information provided, or will it sound off unless I test my specific drivers? I've seen a lot of posts by people who would never design something without testing the drivers at home first, and others who don't think its as important. I'm just curious about your philosophies on the matter (any who would like to chime in)


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