Looking at finishing up my 2X FE127Es
Currently I have the cable routed through the port! dodgy, I reckon it's time I put some binding posts.
I'm not too keen on making a huge hole for one of the flush mount plastic binding pots. I'm also unsure how that would affect the sound.
Are there any binding posts that just require 1 hole per post? I've seen some of these but they appear not to be long enough to be able to mount them through the wood panel and secure them with a bolt.
Any ideas?
Anyone seen any on ebay? should I get on with it and cust a big hole for the plastic flush mount posts?
Currently I have the cable routed through the port! dodgy, I reckon it's time I put some binding posts.
I'm not too keen on making a huge hole for one of the flush mount plastic binding pots. I'm also unsure how that would affect the sound.
Are there any binding posts that just require 1 hole per post? I've seen some of these but they appear not to be long enough to be able to mount them through the wood panel and secure them with a bolt.
Any ideas?
Anyone seen any on ebay? should I get on with it and cust a big hole for the plastic flush mount posts?
I've used these:
Dayton Audio BPA-38G HD Binding Post Pair Gold 091-1245
But switched to these:
Gold Plated Banana 5-Way Speaker Terminal 260-302
Don't know what may be available in your neck of the woods though.
Cheers, Jim
Dayton Audio BPA-38G HD Binding Post Pair Gold 091-1245
But switched to these:
Gold Plated Banana 5-Way Speaker Terminal 260-302
Don't know what may be available in your neck of the woods though.
Cheers, Jim
Geez.. Buy a pair of Copper Bolts of medium to small size or whatever seems appropriate to use. A few Cents each at a Boat supply shop.
Drill your holes then insert the rascals. IF worried about leakage fit a plastic tube sleeve bit where they pass thru the enclosure.
Then you can Bolt your speaker wires onto these OR if after the best possible connection and willing to endure the minor inconvenience of a solid connection... simply Solder the wires on.
Nawww..wayyy too simple and direct a solution.
Drill your holes then insert the rascals. IF worried about leakage fit a plastic tube sleeve bit where they pass thru the enclosure.
Then you can Bolt your speaker wires onto these OR if after the best possible connection and willing to endure the minor inconvenience of a solid connection... simply Solder the wires on.
Nawww..wayyy too simple and direct a solution.
of course one could suggest - "funk it, bro" and directly hardwiring the entire system - sure it'd "sound better" than any mechanical connector yet designed, but kinda impractical
Bob is right - sooner or later you just gotta decide what suits your own needs / budget - if you're crazy like some folks I know and build a whole lotta speakers and need to accommodate for quick / easy changes, then cheap binding post and banana plugs are fine
there are so many more important things to worry about in life that the bandwidth wasted discussing such minutia is almost criminal
Bob is right - sooner or later you just gotta decide what suits your own needs / budget - if you're crazy like some folks I know and build a whole lotta speakers and need to accommodate for quick / easy changes, then cheap binding post and banana plugs are fine
there are so many more important things to worry about in life that the bandwidth wasted discussing such minutia is almost criminal
Chris & i went thru a lot of angst, and trials, and tried lots of different posts. We wanted to avoid plastic cups, but in the end (3 years later) it proved to not be practical, so we buy 2" plastic cups with the cheap cheesy looking plastic nutted posts by the 100s).
The big heavy posts that are listed 1st in Jim's post don't actually sound as good as the cheaper ones he posted 2nd.
These also have the advantage of being able to attach wires to them outside the box (just try to get a soldering iron and a hand thru a 3 or 4" driver cutout even without a holey brace in your way).
An additional requirement we had is that the post snot stand proud of the box (we are pretty sure many of our customers are as clumsy as me), so we ended up with the same posts as above but mounted in a cup that requires a 2" circular hole (as small as they go, and much easier to machine than a rectangular hole)
We found that the cheap cheesy looking plastic nutted posts sound better than many that cost more (the big solid copper Cardas are one expensive example), and that to do significantly better we'd have to jump to Eichmann cable pods.
If you don't have to change out speakers alot, then if you run the wires out of the speaker and use the posts to clamp bared internal wire to bared speaker cable, it is the best way to use any 5-way post.
Also fon't be tempted to use big heavy wire without confirming to yourself that it works best. We use a pair of strands out of solid core CAT5 ethernet cable (high quality and cheap because we are riding on the backs of billions of miles made for the IT industry). I believe that Bob has said he uses the same for his speakers)
dave
The big heavy posts that are listed 1st in Jim's post don't actually sound as good as the cheaper ones he posted 2nd.
These also have the advantage of being able to attach wires to them outside the box (just try to get a soldering iron and a hand thru a 3 or 4" driver cutout even without a holey brace in your way).
An additional requirement we had is that the post snot stand proud of the box (we are pretty sure many of our customers are as clumsy as me), so we ended up with the same posts as above but mounted in a cup that requires a 2" circular hole (as small as they go, and much easier to machine than a rectangular hole)
We found that the cheap cheesy looking plastic nutted posts sound better than many that cost more (the big solid copper Cardas are one expensive example), and that to do significantly better we'd have to jump to Eichmann cable pods.
If you don't have to change out speakers alot, then if you run the wires out of the speaker and use the posts to clamp bared internal wire to bared speaker cable, it is the best way to use any 5-way post.
Also fon't be tempted to use big heavy wire without confirming to yourself that it works best. We use a pair of strands out of solid core CAT5 ethernet cable (high quality and cheap because we are riding on the backs of billions of miles made for the IT industry). I believe that Bob has said he uses the same for his speakers)
dave
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If your using the 091-1245's find a drill bit that gives a tight fit and use a small o-ring on the inside to seal up nicely once the bolt/nut has been tensioned.
Never had a drama yet.
No. Well, maybe. If you drill a 1/4" hole, the stem will pass through the box and the knurled shoulder is a press fit and has to be sent home with a hammer.
The stem is actually M6. Not having metric drills, I suspect that the shoulder will not press fit in a 6mm hole. I don't know if the press fit will be tight enough in a 7mm hole. In any case, as long as the outside of the box is smooth and the hole is square, I can't see that there would be any air leakage once you reef up of the nuts.
Bob
Hi Bob. What your saying is correct you don't need to add an o-ring to the inside if your holes are perfect. As a process i always o-ring or gasket any fitting to a box whether it be a faceplate or plugs.It's just the way i've always done it and is probably to most a waste of time, for me it's piece of mind.
close, and not
old tuner, for antenna
I prefer color coded terminals for polarity ID - particularly if used by someone whod does know or remember the secret code
I'd also imagine the thin bakelite strip on which they're mounted could give some issues with sealing - never a problem for an amp, etc
DIY...paint
with a fullrange driver
but yeah, not sure I dared to use them either
dont look perfectly safe
but the principle looks good
means you can 'lock' a spade directly to the inside solder pad, because it goes through the plate
take another look
you wont notice the first time
I too use the ones in the picture in post 8. If for no other reason, it keeps the 3/4 inch spacing even. As they have a foam gasket, leaks are not an issue. The only way one post is going to sound different is if it is such trash you can't tighten it. Yes, I have replaced some that bad, but mostly on amps. Some expensive ones! What I don't like is the big round or square cups that are prone to vibration. I know it may shock some of the "true believers" but I found tinning the leads and snugging it down to be the best connection. I don't run banana plugs any more. Just more money I could spend where it does matter, on the drivers!
Spend your money on the 90% problem, not the .01% problem. If you build a speaker where the binding post is now the 90% problem, please let us all know as we will beat a path to your door and grovel at your expertise.
Spend your money on the 90% problem, not the .01% problem. If you build a speaker where the binding post is now the 90% problem, please let us all know as we will beat a path to your door and grovel at your expertise.
When i do a permanent install i just use bare wire (since it is a single 24g solid no need to tin). But in normal operations a lot of speakers get swapped in and out. The dual pomonas are indespensible.
dave
the cheapest is better than you might expect
one hole ? just route the internal wire out through a hole, and connect
both wire end are connected close together
and the minimum of metal makes it maybe one of the best
and the best high end option need not be expencive either
but high end doesnt mean better function, it only looks better
which is ok too, if thats your priority
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