Hi everyone,
I just ordered a pair of Alpair 7.3. They will be matched with a pair of 10" Dayton subs (powered and sealed).
I read a lot of info in the forums on the 7.3 but I still have to decide between sealed or vented box for the Alpair. They will powered by a SS 70 watts amp.
I am leaning for a sealed 6 lit enclosure. Advantage I see : better cone control, less bass response (bass covered by the subs).
I would like to read som ideas on this.
Thanks in advance !
Nelson Paradis
I just ordered a pair of Alpair 7.3. They will be matched with a pair of 10" Dayton subs (powered and sealed).
I read a lot of info in the forums on the 7.3 but I still have to decide between sealed or vented box for the Alpair. They will powered by a SS 70 watts amp.
I am leaning for a sealed 6 lit enclosure. Advantage I see : better cone control, less bass response (bass covered by the subs).
I would like to read som ideas on this.
Thanks in advance !
Nelson Paradis
Well, not so much an "idea", but my own personal experience is that the larger Alpairs (7 cm & up) work very well in vented enclosures, even those smaller than required for widest bandwidth. As Dave corrected me elsewhere, the little center channel enclosure he sketched up for the 7 was 9liters (approx 460mm W x 202mm D x 160mm H). This might not model or extend as deeply in real world measures as say the Pensil for same driver - but for its intended use, the bass response is more than adequate for my listening levels. Dimensions were tailored for shortest height (narrow width if turned upright), and could no doubt be adjusted for wider aspect ratio, with corresponding adjustment to vent tuning .
Then there are several more conventional (i.e. round ports) BR designs on Mark's site.
If you do go sealed, I'm wondering if 6 liters might be small enough to constrain dynamics and even contribute to some vocal range congestion if shallow - the latter is something I've certainly encountered with other drivers, regardless of net enclosure volume and venting schemes.
I am building a center channel for my HT with the Alpair 7.3... Should I twin the drivers side by side, or just go with the single? It will be a sealed enclosure, XOed with subs around 100hz.
I realize this has been debated several times on this forum: Twin vs Single driver for Center Channel and suggested combing issues, but can't really find a concrete answer... If someone has tried and tested this, please help. THANKS
I realize this has been debated several times on this forum: Twin vs Single driver for Center Channel and suggested combing issues, but can't really find a concrete answer... If someone has tried and tested this, please help. THANKS
I'd be careful about venting too close to a back wall
of course when using an HT receiver with full DSP XO & EQ, this should not be a problem
personally, I'd go for vented for both the center and L&R fronts - well, actually I did over a year ago, and haven't smoked any of 'em yet
Dave - what is the tuning frequency of the dMar-Ken7 Center?
Will you be using subs? If yes I'd go sealed personally.
As for the 2 versus 1 driver in the center channel question, yes it's been tested and proven over and over. It's a bad idea to use 2. People who do use 2 might not "hear" an issue. Because the issue is combing/nulls. So they are missing some of the source. That's why they don't hear an issue unless they are very familiar with the recording and say "oh man, that high hat is missing, or the flute sounds dull".
As for the 2 versus 1 driver in the center channel question, yes it's been tested and proven over and over. It's a bad idea to use 2. People who do use 2 might not "hear" an issue. Because the issue is combing/nulls. So they are missing some of the source. That's why they don't hear an issue unless they are very familiar with the recording and say "oh man, that high hat is missing, or the flute sounds dull".
Same as the dMar-Ken7. I don't pay attention, the number isn't important to me, the shape of the curve is. And the number in the simulation program is not the same as the tuning once the high aspect vents are factored in. I'd tend toward a 50+ Hzish HP which is likely the answer to the underlying question.
dave
Once you have a capable subwoofer system that's dialed and tuned, you don't turn it off
Agreed for sure, but to get a bit pedantic, at what XO freq do separate bass drivers qualify as "subs" rather than just woofers?
To me it's not about the frequency. It's more a physical reason I call them subwoofer. They are a sub-system. Sub-enclosures, to the rest of the system. They can be spread around. Placed behind you if you want. It's implied that xo frequency would be lower than ones ability to locate sound (well), so about 80hz plus or minus 20hz.
If basing the term on a specific frequency, then it would be about 20hz. So, maybe a rotary subwoofer would be called a subwoofer based on it's frequency output.
If basing the term on a specific frequency, then it would be about 20hz. So, maybe a rotary subwoofer would be called a subwoofer based on it's frequency output.
I was being a little goofy on that comment. Sure, I always find myself turning my subs back on, personally, but your point is still a good one. If you ever want to use them without subs, the ported is a better choice. And he could block the ports when using subs to allow better integration.
I don't think I understand what you mean by "I'm wondering if a FR might help in dialing in the sub?". I'm not sure a full range driver offers any advantage to a multi way speaker for dialing in subs. But I think I've misunderstood you...
I don't think I understand what you mean by "I'm wondering if a FR might help in dialing in the sub?". I'm not sure a full range driver offers any advantage to a multi way speaker for dialing in subs. But I think I've misunderstood you...
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