Ever since seeing the plans for this speaker years ago, I have wanted to build them on aesthetics alone. I recently acquired some 3/4" 11-ply Baltic Birch and decided to let the chips fly.
I was shocked at the outcome! They extended much lower in the bass region than I expected. They have the signature Fostex harshness, but overall, a very enjoyable listening experience. These were built for the Master Bedroom but have a temporary home as my primary speaker whilst I build my Markaudio Alpair 12P Pensils.
Only thing left to do is stuff, sand and seal!
I was shocked at the outcome! They extended much lower in the bass region than I expected. They have the signature Fostex harshness, but overall, a very enjoyable listening experience. These were built for the Master Bedroom but have a temporary home as my primary speaker whilst I build my Markaudio Alpair 12P Pensils.
Only thing left to do is stuff, sand and seal!
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No BSC, straight from the Dynaco transformer to the speaker! I am only really noticing a harshness in upper midrange. I am considering the phase plug mod.
Thanks! It was a surprisingly complex build ... a LOT of pieces to glue together! I plan on building a set DRD 300B monos this winter. After this build, I am now a firm believer in fullrange drivers!
Not sure ... I picked them up from Bob Brines used ... IIRC, several hundred hours, so should be well broken-in by now.
I am pretty sure I'll do the phase plug mod even if it reduces a little top end. I can always compensate with a set of T90A's if need be!
Not sure ... I picked them up from Bob Brines used ... IIRC, several hundred hours, so should be well broken-in by now.
I am pretty sure I'll do the phase plug mod even if it reduces a little top end. I can always compensate with a set of T90A's if need be!
Yes, those drivers are well used. Phase plugs will put a hole in the response 5-7kHz that reduces sibilance and smooths out female voice. See my review of this.. Phase plugs to nothing with the main cone breakup 3-5kHz nor do they affect the top end.
One thing to note: Your cabinet have no real bass. When modeled, they have an F3 of somewhere around 105Hz. While the cabinet is "tuned" to ~40Hz, it is acting like an aperiodic box. The lack of bass is one reason they sound bright. Cross them over at 150Hz or so to a sub(s).
Bob
craig: while I imagine you'll be spending much more time over the next couple of weeks with the new 12Ps, as Bob says, the FE167 will never shine in the Fostex design - they are capable of digging much deeper than 100 or so, but would need something like an MLTL, such as:
M12-F165
(seen here sporting the FF165WK with some dimensional changes, but IINM very similar to Bob's longstanding design for the FE167E)
or larger volume ported enclosure - this one works fairly well
M12-F165
(seen here sporting the FF165WK with some dimensional changes, but IINM very similar to Bob's longstanding design for the FE167E)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
or larger volume ported enclosure - this one works fairly well
http://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_components/pdf/recom_enclose/167e_enclrev.pdf
If building these, I'd fill the bottom portion of column with dry sand, lead shot, etc. , and note that their photo shows plywood
But honestly, I think that a well executed MLTL design, such as Bob's referenced earlier in the thread would deliver much better bass, and occupy hardly any additional floorspace, if at all.
http://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_components/pdf/recom_enclose/167e_enclrev.pdf
If building these, I'd fill the bottom portion of column with dry sand, lead shot, etc. , and note that their photo shows plywood
But honestly, I think that a well executed MLTL design, such as Bob's referenced earlier in the thread would deliver much better bass, and occupy hardly any additional floorspace, if at all.
^ Those are the plans I used. I filled the bottom of the column with coal slag blasting media.
In the last few months two identical sized cabinets of ~ 18 liter have been built. One pair is sealed and the other pair is BR. Extensive modelling showed this to be the optimum size - for the BR add a 1.1 Ohm resistor, for the sealed add a 3 Ohm resistor. Port 59 mm dia, 114 mm long. Wife is pleased with the sealed, I am pleased with the BR. (she has hearing issues - too much group delay muddles the music ) Three small cubes (all sides equal size) of foam tames the whizzer (after trying out cotton wool etc)
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