Boominess in a BR is usually the result of a designer's unfortunate attempt to get a flat response to cutoff without regard to room lift. The proper way to design a BR is to have the rolloff match the room lift. A bit hard to do, but as long as a somewhat overdamped response is obtained, all should be well. Don't get caught up chasing an F3 point. Look at the F10 point. In most normal rooms this will give something approximating in-room F3.
This is the way I design BR's, and MLTL's for that matter. I believe that rjbond3rd has heard a few on my BR's. They don't boom, do they?
Bob
This is the way I design BR's, and MLTL's for that matter. I believe that rjbond3rd has heard a few on my BR's. They don't boom, do they?
Bob
A little. Even outside where there was no room lift. A set of open cel foam plugs about 1 1/2" long went a long way to curing that.
dave
Hmmmm. OK, I'll look into that. But I believe that what you have is a MLTL, not a more or less golden ratio BR.
Bob
No boom for me. I have the LT-2000's, and have heard at various LSAF's the LT-2000's with DX-3, BR-20, FT-1600, B18 (Tang Bang 1772), T7-A7). They all had remarkable bass that blended with the room with no boom to my ears.
I haven't yet heard the M10-A10, the T18-F200 and the Fostex WK-based designs, but hope to.
Dave, were you measuring the A10-based design?
That is true, i read your last sentence in the post i referenced a bit too fast.
BTW it was our build of the M10-A10s that sold Tono on the design.
dave
Is that the reason an OB woofer sounds better than a monopole sealed or BR, because an OB will never pressurize the room and hence no room gain. Trying to match the rolloff of a monopole to the room gain can be difficult and perhaps impossible for many. So I surmise, OB woofers are actually an easier way (albeit larger and less efficient) for accurate bass reproduction in moderately sized rooms. In very very large rooms, there is less room again, so monopoles could be as accurate and more efficient.
Bob, since you have both H-frames and well designed monopoles, how do you compare the two ?!
thanks.
I've done the OB thing. I didn't like the comes-from-everywhere ambiance that an OB does. I much prefer the focused sound that comes from monopoles. It's a personal thing. At the moment I'm using a pair of BR's loaded with A10.2's that goes every bit a deep as the H-frames a produce a much more realistic soundstage. In fact, the soundstage is somewhat in front of the the speakers an almost scary. I need to do some more experimenting with positioning.
A better question might be "how loud do you intend to play these, or play your current system?" - as in have you actually measured it? As noted before, I have 7s in vented enclosures for the front row- with the XOs set at 110/120 my 70 WPC Denon plays as loud as I care to listen. I've measured with Radio Shack digital meter and seldom exceed 96dB peaks 10ft in a 420ft^2 room.
I've played with A6M and CHR70 in small sealed boxes, but prefer the larger MA drivers ( 7.3 & up, and the EL70) in vented or BLH type enclosures
I haven't bought yet but rarely play at reference level maybe only at the weekend. I have m&k 35 xenons at the moment. My room is 3.5metres by 4 with a height of around 2.4. My wife accepts my 4.5 cubic foot sub - a second is in the pipeline but doeasnt want large speakers hence the preferred sealed option. I use a emotiva umc1 processor.
vented enclosures for the 7s don't need to be large, particularly if XOd in the 100 - 120Hz range - my the little center channel enclosure is something in the area of 11 liters, and for similar operating conditions with the 10.2 you could get away with around 15liters
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