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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
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Start the build today. A12P has about 800 hours on it.
Last edited by bqc; 21st October 2012 at 07:11 AM. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Victoria, B.C.
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Cool!
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
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Great pics! Keep us updated!
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
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bqc,
Looking good. Would like to bring something to your attention - have you chamferred the inside of the mounting hole for the driver? It is advised that you do a roundover or a 45 degree chamfer for aread outside the screw holes. |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
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Quote:
I will actually have another baffle to mount the driver on, and that one will be chamferred. The hole you see there is actually 3/4" larger than the actual hole for the driver mount. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
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The hardest part about building this kind of speaker is that the panels will need to be standing up straight at right angle with the board that they laid on, and clamping tend to make them tilt one way or another if the edge are not exactly 90 degree and the front wood panel curving does not help matters either. I had to constantly checking the angles, and using combination of clamps to pull the wood straight if they tend to curve in the wrong direction. One thing I learned when building the Sachikos a while back is that the internal panels tend to slide and shift when clamping down hard. So this time I cut some spacers, block of wood, having the width of the air gap and insert them into the gap to keep the panel in place while clamping down. They definitely helped the built.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
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bqc,
Build is looking really good and comingl along nicely. You have brought up a very good point about the panels not wanting to stay at 90 degrees when clamped down hard - I have also faced this even for simpler builds - tightening clamps sometimes spoils the angle. Thanks for sharing your technique. I've partially overcome this by wood spacers too.The slippery glue makes it further challenging at times. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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i am very intrested to hear your comparison between the Sachiko and the Avebury!
Anders |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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Since they use completely different drivers and have a completely different load configuration, what a comparison between the two will tell you is that they're different.
Avebury if boundary loaded as designed will be impedance matched to a substantially lower frequency & providing a more linear FR. Power-response is very different given the dissimilar configurations & the way it interacts with the room. The driver's characteristics are of course unchanged, so whatever applies to the FE206E/En & the Alpair 12P also holds good here. Build is looking great BTW.
Last edited by Scottmoose; 22nd October 2012 at 10:26 AM. |
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