Avebury A12P build

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Start the build today. A12P has about 800 hours on it.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3239.jpg
    IMG_3239.jpg
    305 KB · Views: 728
  • IMG_3242.JPG
    IMG_3242.JPG
    780.8 KB · Views: 694
  • IMG_3243.JPG
    IMG_3243.JPG
    917.2 KB · Views: 646
  • IMG_3244.jpg
    IMG_3244.jpg
    205.3 KB · Views: 613
  • IMG_3245.JPG
    IMG_3245.JPG
    950.3 KB · Views: 595
  • IMG_3246.JPG
    IMG_3246.JPG
    909.9 KB · Views: 151
  • IMG_3247.JPG
    IMG_3247.JPG
    844.3 KB · Views: 134
  • IMG_3248.JPG
    IMG_3248.JPG
    957.1 KB · Views: 138
  • IMG_3249.JPG
    IMG_3249.JPG
    972 KB · Views: 218
  • IMG_3250.jpg
    IMG_3250.jpg
    217.5 KB · Views: 248
Last edited:
bqc,

Looking good.

Would like to bring something to your attention - have you chamferred the inside of the mounting hole for the driver? It is advised that you do a roundover or a 45 degree chamfer for aread outside the screw holes.

Thanks,
I will actually have another baffle to mount the driver on, and that one will be chamferred. The hole you see there is actually 3/4" larger than the actual hole for the driver mount.
 
more pictures

The hardest part about building this kind of speaker is that the panels will need to be standing up straight at right angle with the board that they laid on, and clamping tend to make them tilt one way or another if the edge are not exactly 90 degree and the front wood panel curving does not help matters either. I had to constantly checking the angles, and using combination of clamps to pull the wood straight if they tend to curve in the wrong direction. One thing I learned when building the Sachikos a while back is that the internal panels tend to slide and shift when clamping down hard. So this time I cut some spacers, block of wood, having the width of the air gap and insert them into the gap to keep the panel in place while clamping down. They definitely helped the built.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3541.jpg
    IMG_3541.jpg
    67.9 KB · Views: 235
  • IMG_3542.jpg
    IMG_3542.jpg
    77.8 KB · Views: 287
  • IMG_3545.jpg
    IMG_3545.jpg
    78.5 KB · Views: 242
  • IMG_3546.jpg
    IMG_3546.jpg
    72.4 KB · Views: 220
bqc,

Build is looking really good and comingl along nicely. You have brought up a very good point about the panels not wanting to stay at 90 degrees when clamped down hard - I have also faced this even for simpler builds - tightening clamps sometimes spoils the angle. Thanks for sharing your technique. I've partially overcome this by wood spacers too.The slippery glue makes it further challenging at times.
 
Since they use completely different drivers and have a completely different load configuration, what a comparison between the two will tell you is that they're different. ;)

Avebury if boundary loaded as designed will be impedance matched to a substantially lower frequency & providing a more linear FR. Power-response is very different given the dissimilar configurations & the way it interacts with the room. The driver's characteristics are of course unchanged, so whatever applies to the FE206E/En & the Alpair 12P also holds good here.

Build is looking great BTW. :)
 
Last edited:
Build is looking great BTW. :)

Thanks Scootmoose. The plan was clear and easy to follow.One comment I may add to the resolution of the dimensions in Imperial units. Quite of few of the dimensions are listed down to 1/32" resolution. Unfortunately, my measurement tape only resolves down to 1/16" my eyes can't see that small and the thickness of my pencil point is almost 1/16". So I had to round those to the nearest 1/16". No big deal, but just a practical comment for your future designs.
 
Tagging along, looks like you're the first to do the Averbury! I'm much anticipating the results, great driver worthy of a great BLH plan, will be interesting!

Btw, they look big, i'll guess 6' high, for the sake of considering the build can i ask the width, and depth at top, bottom and center measurements?

Also would room requirements be about the same as for the Victor or will they require a larger space with further then a 10' minimum listening distance?
 
No, there's at least half a dozen that've been built over the past few months. Correct, 6ft tall. The external dimensions etc. are all listed on the site.

True, but perhaps also that one sounds better than the other, I would expect?

That entirely depends what you mean by 'better.' I can say that Avebury & the similar boxes from said site offer superior technical performance to my freebie designs over on Frugal-horn, assuming they're optimally positioned & there are no major room modes to mess things up. Whether people will think they sound 'better' or not is another matter entirely.


Re the 1/16 & 1/32in dimensions, I'll keep that in mind, & thanks for the feedback.
 
Last edited:
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
Thanks Scootmoose. The plan was clear and easy to follow.One comment I may add to the resolution of the dimensions in Imperial units. Quite of few of the dimensions are listed down to 1/32" resolution. Unfortunately, my measurement tape only resolves down to 1/16" my eyes can't see that small and the thickness of my pencil point is almost 1/16". So I had to round those to the nearest 1/16". No big deal, but just a practical comment for your future designs.

The plans for 18mm panels are rationalized to unit millimetres and imperial measurements are rounded to 1/32" via a function in the CAD software.

If building with 18mm stock a measuring tape with metric units is useful.

Plans for 3/4" material are rationalized for imperial units (this how i get them from Scott). Metric units rounded to 1mm.

In either situation you need to adjust for the actual material thickness which is rarely exactly 18mm of 3/4"

dave
 
Back in the beginning, Benjamin Franklin pushed to make the new USA metric. He almost won that one. One of his other bright ideas was that our national language be Hebrew. Thank God he lost that one!

I draw all of my plans for 3/4" material as is the convention. I hardly ever get 3/4" material. most of it is 18mm, more or less. That means overlapping panels will be 2mm too wide, more or less. This is what a router trim bit is for!

Bob
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.